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I ran 3 tanks of fuel thru the engine today. If I ran in the water with some resistance and at max a 1/4 throttle I was getting temps of about 210°-215° if I let the engine Idle on the stand max temp was about 195°-200°. I did notice that I did have alot of oil dripping from the end of the tuned pipe and when engine ran out of fuel I tip the boat to pour out what ever was in the pipe and I got at least 2 tablespoons oil, is this normal?? Otherwise the engine seamed good will do this process again tomorrow, and then by the weekend I will be ready to go back to the water :)

Thanks Everyone

Paul

p.s. If I am going about this all wrong please tell me, thanks :)
 
Cheese,

I'd get the thing out on the water and run it fat for a tank or two then start turning it in. Mix it up making some hard passes on the straight to generate heat and then some slower passes to cool it down. It will take some good heat to break it in. I've also done it many times like Krusty but I would be a little more carefull with this engine after your problem.

Don
 
Well today isn't a good day, I got an email stating that the Badgers Model Boat Club don't think they will have 3 A class riggers for the may 6th race. They did say they want me to bring my boat this weekend to there pond and show them what I have (and show them I can drive the boat and it wont be a hazard on the water). Sooooooooo between today and Saturday or Sunday in the rainy weather we are having now I need to finish breaking this engine back in. I really would like to have some practice runs on there pond with some other boats on the water, I should be a whole 15-20mph slower than the B class so it will be interesting. I still think people will "freak" when they see how little my boat is. An idea next to a gas rigger one sponson is about the size of my tub. So i will keep pushing forward and wont let these set back bother me, I will do everything possible to have this boat ready for the weekend.

Paul

p.s. Will a 1440 prop be that much better on this boat than a b215? I was gonna try an do a Barr Back Cut on it and b/s it for the weekend too?
 
I was told that the A class rigger I have can race in the B class no questions asked, is this true? I have asked a few people that I know have A riggers if they would be willing to race, it don't look like it but I would like to race against the B class. Yes I understand a clubs concern that I don't have alot of race experience and I am planning on going to there club pond this weekend and running with them just for some practice. But as it sits now I don't even know if I will be allowed to race in B class :(

Paul
 
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I was told that the A class rigger I have can race in the B class no questions asked, is this true? I have asked a few people that I know have A riggers if they would be willing to race, it don't look like it but I would like to race against the B class. Yes I understand a clubs concern that I don't have alot of race experience and I am planning on going to there club pond this weekend and running with them just for some practice. But as it sits now I don't even know if I will be allowed to race in B class :(

Paul
Take it easy grasshoper! :lol: You need a lot of thrashing on the course before you're ready to mix it up with 20s. Just be satisfied to run on weekends for a little while and get a lot of help from the experienced drivers. There is a lot of money and time invested in a good rigger as you know. We were all at your point to start with. This is not like R/C car racing believe me!

Don ;)
 
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Is it normal to get 1-2 tablespoons oil out of the tuned pipe after running the engine rich, during breaking?

Thanks Paul
 
Hi All,

Today was a terrible day on the lake. I went to run with the Badgers and my boat was embarrassing. First off I shouldn't have change my prop too the 1440, my boat couldn't get on plane with that, then the wind/water well the wind was 15-20mph and the waves where 3-4" high (if ya seen the pics of my boat you would know the water was going over the engine. Tomorrow I am suppose to go run with 2 members from my club and David and Gary Preusse, so I hope all goes well then :)

Paul

p.s. I did meet some really great guys though :)
 
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1 question, Is it unheard of to use a thrust plate behind the strut mount? A gentleman I met yesterday was using them he said it helped keep his rigger going straight, with out them it wanted to do right turns. Could something like this be the answer to my right turn issue?

Thanks

Paul

p.s. I really do appreciate all the Help Everyone has been giving me, Thank You :)

And I am sorry for annoying the rest.
 
1 question, Is it unheard of to use a thrust plate behind the strut mount? A gentleman I met yesterday was using them he said it helped keep his rigger going straight, with out them it wanted to do right turns. Could something like this be the answer to my right turn issue?

Thanks

Paul

p.s. I really do appreciate all the Help Everyone has been giving me, Thank You :)

And I am sorry for annoying the rest.
I assume you are talking about being able to adjust the angle of the strut to the left. Then yes I have seen riggers like that but they usually start the angle all the way up to almost the engine to make a smooth transition. Never tried it my self.

I think that your boat is so small that very little things make huge differences to how it reacts. I would stay with a smaller very sharp prop and go for high RPM. I also still think your turn fin is too deep in the water. Years ago I actually bent out the tip of my turn fin a little to the right to help the problem. It didn't hurt the performance, that I could tell, but it sure straightend it up."Take that one with a grain of salt".

In fact, take my suggestions with a grain of salt! :lol:

Don ;)
 
Hi all,

I hope you guys could help a little today. I went out boating saw Gary and David Preusse (Really Nice Guys) also met up with a couple of my club members. I was able to run my boat with the 215 prop but its not running nearly as well as it did before the con-rod broke. Could I have been running the boat way too lean when it blew thats why it was faster? Based on plug color the boat is running at the correct richness but just doesn't seam to get on the pipe, and its not getting hot enough. I am gonna try a few smaller props as recommended today. I did try a v937/3 and that didn't work at all immediately the boat fell off plane and cavitated. I didn't try the 1440 in good water I should have, yesterday it did seam for a second ready to work but I think the waves killed it or my prep on it is really shitty (I would guess its really shitty). So tomorrow I will try a x437 and a x438 and the 1440 again, since it is going to be very hard to find a 215 anymore since prather is outa business. I was told to check head clearance I was told it should be no more than .008 does this sound correct? Also was told maybe try higher nitro, I need more heat (engine isn't getting hot). Do plugs help generate heat, I was also told don't use the OS 8 plug because its hotter would the hotter plug help the engine run hotter? I did get the confirmation on what I was told to do, that I didn't completely do yet (turn fin and rudder should be sharp enough to cut with). Sorry about everything I was told I am looking for more opinions, Ya know how that goes get all the opinions you can and make your best decision from there. Ohhh Gary also mention my 700mah 5 cell pack is a little over kill, he said I could go with a 350mah pack and be fine? Ok Ok I cant think of anything else so if anyone has any opinions please help me :)

Thanks

Paul
 
Hi all,
I hope you guys could help a little today. I went out boating saw Gary and David Preusse (Really Nice Guys) also met up with a couple of my club members. I was able to run my boat with the 215 prop but its not running nearly as well as it did before the con-rod broke. Could I have been running the boat way too lean when it blew thats why it was faster? Based on plug color the boat is running at the correct richness but just doesn't seam to get on the pipe, and its not getting hot enough. I am gonna try a few smaller props as recommended today. I did try a v937/3 and that didn't work at all immediately the boat fell off plane and cavitated. I didn't try the 1440 in good water I should have, yesterday it did seam for a second ready to work but I think the waves killed it or my prep on it is really shitty (I would guess its really shitty). So tomorrow I will try a x437 and a x438 and the 1440 again, since it is going to be very hard to find a 215 anymore since prather is outa business. I was told to check head clearance I was told it should be no more than .008 does this sound correct? Also was told maybe try higher nitro, I need more heat (engine isn't getting hot). Do plugs help generate heat, I was also told don't use the OS 8 plug because its hotter would the hotter plug help the engine run hotter? I did get the confirmation on what I was told to do, that I didn't completely do yet (turn fin and rudder should be sharp enough to cut with). Sorry about everything I was told I am looking for more opinions, Ya know how that goes get all the opinions you can and make your best decision from there. Ohhh Gary also mention my 700mah 5 cell pack is a little over kill, he said I could go with a 350mah pack and be fine? Ok Ok I cant think of anything else so if anyone has any opinions please help me :)

Thanks

Paul
Being fairly new to racin boats myself, I remember the first year or so, lots of info. being tossed at you and

wondering if thats right or this is right. having experienced boaters help out is worth it's wieght in gold. It will

get you goin fast alot quicker. If you have Gary and David helping you have lots of years of thought in there

suggestions, listen! 99% of the time I didn't listen to experienced club members it would cost me money or lost

time.
 
Now I have turn fin and rudder sharp enough to cut with. Also cut down cooling head a little more (Gary suggested water cooled head for weight issues, but water cooled for .12 is not easy to find and 3 cooling fins cant be that heavy). Just waiting for LHS to open so I can get some more props. Oh about head clearance it was .017 with the shim, I took the .008 shim out and now have .009 that should be better? Any more suggestions would be greatly appreciated :)

Thanks

Paul
 
Help Please........................ Ok x440,x442,1440,937/3 just wont work, boat falls of plane and stops in 20-50' . If I use the prather 215 the boat will stay on plane and run the tank out, but it doesn't get the rpms up (should I use the 215 with more nitro%)? So what would be the next prop to try? Please Help.

Thanks

Paul
 
Opinions please, I am thinking of making some crazy big rear sponson so this little boat will float better. I am also considering getting rid of the center sponson that encloses the stuffing tube. The riding surfaces wont be much bigger than what already is there these will be atleast as long as the front sponsons (ya know almost up to the engine mounting bracket holes. Does this sound like it might help?

Paul

p.s. If this doesn't work I am gonna just step away from this .12 and start working on the full size .12 I have.
 
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Opinions please, I am thinking of making some crazy big rear sponson so this little boat will float better. I am also considering getting rid of the center sponson that encloses the stuffing tube. The riding surfaces wont be much bigger than what already is there these will be atleast as long as the front sponsons (ya know almost up to the engine mounting bracket holes. Does this sound like it might help?

Paul

p.s. If this doesn't work I am gonna just step away from this .12 and start working on the full size .12 I have.
Cheese:

Let's go back to when your rigger was running well with the 215. What has changed other than sharpening your rudder and turn fin which will do nothing but good for any rigger? Your engine blew, you put in a new piston and rod and you changed the head clearence by taking out a shim. Did you change bearings? Your pipe seems about right so I would look at one thing. (ENGINE)

A rigger should not run on it's rear sponsons. They should help on launch and some on the turns but the prop should lift them out of the water at speed. Your center sponson should be very benificial for launching larger props. The rigger should be a 3 point only, at speed. The trailing edge of two front sponsons and one partial blade of the prop.

I really wouldn't even think about making drastic changes to your small rigger before you know you have a good engine. Go back to where it was running good and try one more time. One thing, I would not dispute anything Gary says about head clearence.

My 2 cents,

Don ;)
 
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Besides what I have mentioned the only thing I can think of is I was running way too lean and thats why the engine broke in the first place? Its just getting a little frustrating this boat was running very nicely now its a dog if it even runs

Paul

When this boat dies in the water it sits with the carb barrel just barely out of the water and the tuned pipe on the edge of filling with water, its not pretty. If its running I atleast can bring it close to shore before I kill the engine.
 
The props you are trying are too big for your combo. To run those you'll need a stronger engine,... sirio, TZ or NR.

Go with the x437 or something even smaller. Then go from there. Make sure you're getting good fuel flow without air in it..

Besides what I have mentioned the only thing I can think of is I was running way too lean and thats why the engine broke in the first place? Its just getting a little frustrating this boat was running very nicely now its a dog if it even runs

Paul

When this boat dies in the water it sits with the carb barrel just barely out of the water and the tuned pipe on the edge of filling with water, its not pretty. If its running I atleast can bring it close to shore before I kill the engine.
 
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