- Joined
- Nov 22, 2003
- Messages
- 7,192
Oh No. 1 member, please explain Z bend, berry, berry confused. :blink: :blink:well... i use a z bend, some like an s bend. it kinda depends on your preference. i drew it on the plans i think??
Oh No. 1 member, please explain Z bend, berry, berry confused. :blink: :blink:well... i use a z bend, some like an s bend. it kinda depends on your preference. i drew it on the plans i think??
Was already wondering what you meant with it. I'll give it a try once i got the engine in. Today i sealed the sponsons with epoxy, glued the top on the tub and made a new turnfin. Didn't like the other one, it was to thick because i couldn't apply enough pressure on it. Hopefully this is better, we'll see tomorrow. Added some new pictures to the gallery.ok i said it wrong.... "S" bend or just one bend.....
Boat looks good!I was a bit lucky with the starts, in the 3rd heat i crossed the line at 0,02 seconds after the start In the Netherlands we use the AMB transponder system. Every boat uses a transponder and the time/speed is measured by a computer. So never flase starts. Fasted lap was about 60 MPH in the 3rd heat. Heat times can be found here, this is the H7,5 class.
Terry.Boat looks good!I was a bit lucky with the starts, in the 3rd heat i crossed the line at 0,02 seconds after the start In the Netherlands we use the AMB transponder system. Every boat uses a transponder and the time/speed is measured by a computer. So never flase starts. Fasted lap was about 60 MPH in the 3rd heat. Heat times can be found here, this is the H7,5 class.
Just curous about how you're using the AMB system, we had it here in N. America in the mid 90's (I was the instigator) but got rid of it basically because it was considered too much trouble at the time.
I think I see the loop wires over the water at the starting line, how high up do you put them? Does everyone have their own personal transponder or are they given out at the beginning of a heat?
Is AMB still based in The Netherlands?
Oh, BTW, try a 1655 with a little cup and bring the pipe in 1/4" at a time until it gets "pipy" then bring it back out. How much (%) nitro are you running?
Tim, thanks for the kind words. Looking forward to your rigger and hearing about the results. Post some pictures.Congrats on the first time out win Paul!I need to finish painting mine and get it wet.
Terry, i had a look in my propbox and appeared to have 2 1655 props, so i'm going to modify one anyway. I colored the area to remove on the prop, see the picture below. How much backcut would you recommend? This is about 1/8". The tongue removal is at the widest point about 1/4", what do you think?Good stuff Paul, let us know how it goes.
That's a crazy price for nitro, about 4 times what it is here, if you can find it cheaper then go for the 60%, you'll see a difference.
That's a good pipe you're running, try it a little shorter...
Hi Terry, i've read about heat-treating, but never done it, also don't have oven for it. I don't which software we use for the transponders. We have a race this weekend, 2nd race for the Dutch Championship, and i'll ask about the software. I think it's AMB software, will try to make a photo of the screen.Props looks good! Let us know how they work out. If you can afford the 60% fuel you may want to try a 1657 like that (cut down with a little cup). Also, I find that heat-treating them helps them to hold their pitch better and keeps the edges sharp , did you ever try that?
Can you post a pic of the set-up instructions for the Firefighter?
Do you use AMB's software or someone elses?
Terry, thanks for the setup sheet, i'll have a look at it.my tub is set like tim said. higher in the rear than the front. I also set my sponsons with 1 degree on the tops. So far it is working well but I've had carb problems to really give it a good testing. I believe my rears are 3/16" off the setup table.
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