Vertex .25 Help please

[STEVE M]

Hi every one, I have got a vertex.25 motor with a rotary carb on it. What i need to know is what screw backs of the idle. The motor and boat is new, i ran it up at the weekend for about 1 min in total, and i couldn't get it to idle low or shut down with the remote. At the moment i have 16% fuel for it and 3 turns out on the mixture needle. Has any one got any links to articles on what each screw does. ( new to nitro)

 

[camaroboy383]

Hi every one, I have got a vertex.25 motor with a rotary carb on it. What i need to know is what screw backs of the idle. The motor and boat is new, i ran it up at the weekend for about 1 min in total, and i couldn't get it to idle low or shut down with the remote. At the moment i have 16% fuel for it and 3 turns out on the mixture needle. Has any one got any links to articles on what each screw does. ( new to nitro)

Well the high speed needle is the one you set a 3 turns,

The low speed needle is either in the center of the throttle arm or on the opposite side of the carb.

The idle screw is that little guy on top next to the carb mouth. Back that out till the barrel closes completely

Alden

 

[STEVE M]

Hi every one, I have got a vertex.25 motor with a rotary carb on it. What i need to know is what screw backs of the idle. The motor and boat is new, i ran it up at the weekend for about 1 min in total, and i couldn't get it to idle low or shut down with the remote. At the moment i have 16% fuel for it and 3 turns out on the mixture needle. Has any one got any links to articles on what each screw does. ( new to nitro)

Well the high speed needle is the one you set a 3 turns,

The low speed needle is either in the center of the throttle arm or on the opposite side of the carb.

The idle screw is that little guy on top next to the carb mouth. Back that out till the barrel closes completely

Alden

Thanks Alden for the quick reply, looking from the back of the boat at the carb, the little idle screw is on the back of the carb, I also have one on each end, would there be any need to touch these other two at this stage??.

Steve

 

[camaroboy383]

Hi every one, I have got a vertex.25 motor with a rotary carb on it. What i need to know is what screw backs of the idle. The motor and boat is new, i ran it up at the weekend for about 1 min in total, and i couldn't get it to idle low or shut down with the remote. At the moment i have 16% fuel for it and 3 turns out on the mixture needle. Has any one got any links to articles on what each screw does. ( new to nitro)

Well the high speed needle is the one you set a 3 turns,

The low speed needle is either in the center of the throttle arm or on the opposite side of the carb.

The idle screw is that little guy on top next to the carb mouth. Back that out till the barrel closes completely

Alden

Thanks Alden for the quick reply, looking from the back of the boat at the carb, the little idle screw is on the back of the carb, I also have one on each end, would there be any need to touch these other two at this stage??.

Steve

No, dont mess with them at this point. Should be pre set to a rich setting.

Only one of them is the low speed needle, the other im sure is more of a cap then anything.

Alden

 

[STEVE M]

Hi every one, I have got a vertex.25 motor with a rotary carb on it. What i need to know is what screw backs of the idle. The motor and boat is new, i ran it up at the weekend for about 1 min in total, and i couldn't get it to idle low or shut down with the remote. At the moment i have 16% fuel for it and 3 turns out on the mixture needle. Has any one got any links to articles on what each screw does. ( new to nitro)

Well the high speed needle is the one you set a 3 turns,

The low speed needle is either in the center of the throttle arm or on the opposite side of the carb.

The idle screw is that little guy on top next to the carb mouth. Back that out till the barrel closes completely

Alden

Thanks Alden for the quick reply, looking from the back of the boat at the carb, the little idle screw is on the back of the carb, I also have one on each end, would there be any need to touch these other two at this stage??.

Steve

No, dont mess with them at this point. Should be pre set to a rich setting.

Only one of them is the low speed needle, the other im sure is more of a cap then anything.

Alden

Got it going a few days ago, the idle stop is the on the oppisite end of the carb from the throttle, the one i thought it was just licates the inner barrel. Here is a short vid. It's getting wet in a couple of hrs, i will get more vid on it running.

Steve

http://s465.photobucket.com/albums/rr17/St...zacDay08001.flv

 

[STEVE M]

Ran well yesterday, got a tank through it without a problem. Will get it out again thisarvo and get another couple through it. only running it at just over idle and a bit more every now and again.

http://s465.photobucket.com/albums/rr17/St...69/29in%20Mono/

 

[STEVE M]

mmmmmm I think I am doing something wrong. Today when I went out I started at 3 1/2 turns out on the mixture screw, It started well and ran another tank through it. I also hit a stick and smached a prop (cheap plastic one 40mmX56mm) I put my other prop on 42mmX59mm and filled the tank and set out again, I found i the tank got below 2/3 it would stall out easy, fill her up and all is fine????. At the moment with the servo travel i have I am only getting just over 2/3 of the carb movement. Also while cleaning the boat up i noticed that the header coupling at the cylinder head was a bit melted. (too lean????)

Any help on tuning and the breakin process is most welcome be it good or bad.

thanks

Steve

 

[BB Mods's]

Run the motor richer, your to lean right now.

 

[STEVE M]

Thanks Tommy, should i go to 4 turns out??, on 3 1/2 at the moment.

 

[BB Mods's]

fatten it up until you just about need half/wot to keep it going, it should be stupidly rich sitting on the stand, toss it in the water and run a tank or so more, then start to lean it out.

 

[camaroboy383]

steve,, what prop you have on that thing????????? seems way to small,, need to load up that engine a bit.. could be why your seeing what your seeing... thing revs like its on land... up the prop i think you will be happy with the results...

alden

 

[STEVE M]

Hey Alden, the prop in the vid was a 42x59pich plastic prop, that is now broken. at the moment I am sharpening and balancing a X440-3 to go on. The only other prop I have got is a X450-2 but i think that would be too big.

Steve

 

[camaroboy383]

Hey Alden, the prop in the vid was a 42x59pich plastic prop, that is now broken. at the moment I am sharpening and balancing a X440-3 to go on. The only other prop I have got is a X450-2 but i think that would be too big.Steve

That 440/3 will be a great start for that boat, fix your throttle issue so you get full throttle, run at the 3 1/2 turns out but take and fatten the low speed a hair..

Think you will be much happier next time you go out.

Alden

 

[STEVE M]

Cool thanks, With the fatten up of the low speed a hair, how much?? 1/8 1/4 ?? this is all new to me. I will let you know how I go at the weekend.

Steve

 

[camaroboy383]

Cool thanks, With the fatten up of the low speed a hair, how much?? 1/8 1/4 ?? this is all new to me. I will let you know how I go at the weekend.Steve

1/16th or 1/8th turn should be plenty.. the 2/3rd's throttle thing is most likely why you are lean,, the low speed needle is probably still some what restricting flow of fuel.. fix that for sure.... good luck on your next trip out..

alden

 

[STEVE M]

Not so good day at the pond today, got the X440/3 all sharp and balanced, lubed the cable and headed off to the pond. First i thought i would leave the settings at last run, but couldnt even get her going, after alot pf pulling it finely went but not well, as soon as I pulled the glow starter off it stalled no matter wot reves i was holding it at. then the collet and flywheel came loose and i lost the grub screw for the collet. Would it be the extra weight of the prop making it harder to start???. This is a buggie crank motor so the collet is 5mm on the 5mm crank, I have ground a flat on it but i need to put some better locktite in it. Doing all this the main screw was at 3 1/2 and the low speed was factory, I was going to get a little heat into into it and then i was going to start to richen it up.

Steve

 

[camaroboy383]

Not so good day at the pond today, got the X440/3 all sharp and balanced, lubed the cable and headed off to the pond. First i thought i would leave the settings at last run, but couldnt even get her going, after alot pf pulling it finely went but not well, as soon as I pulled the glow starter off it stalled no matter wot reves i was holding it at. then the collet and flywheel came loose and i lost the grub screw for the collet. Would it be the extra weight of the prop making it harder to start???. This is a buggie crank motor so the collet is 5mm on the 5mm crank, I have ground a flat on it but i need to put some better locktite in it. Doing all this the main screw was at 3 1/2 and the low speed was factory, I was going to get a little heat into into it and then i was going to start to richen it up. Steve

Well never assume you can run a needle setting that worked last time you were out. Air temp,water temp, air density,ect. Will change every day which means your needle will too, always better to start a couple clicks richer first tank out and bring it in from there.

The prop has nothing to do with it, garanteed its the collet coming loose that got ya.

My question to you is why did you grind a flat in the 5mm threaded part of the crank??? Octura makes a 5mm threaded collet..

Grease the shaft every time you go out too.

Alden

 

[STEVE M]

Hey Alden, thanks for your help on this little project. the threaded part on the crank has a thread of 1/4x20 not 5mm. The flat I ground on the crank is on the straight 5mm part behind the thread. At the time of getting all my bits i couldn't find a collet with that thread in it so i went for the straight 5mm one with a grub screw to hold in place. The flywheel is on a taper with a nut holding it in place that i tapped out. I did find a collet the other night but if I change to that i need to cut the 5mm shaft from the crank (leaving the threaded part) and get a longer flex.

Steve

 

[camaroboy383]

Hey Alden, thanks for your help on this little project. the threaded part on the crank has a thread of 1/4x20 not 5mm. The flat I ground on the crank is on the straight 5mm part behind the thread. At the time of getting all my bits i couldn't find a collet with that thread in it so i went for the straight 5mm one with a grub screw to hold in place. The flywheel is on a taper with a nut holding it in place that i tapped out. I did find a collet the other night but if I change to that i need to cut the 5mm shaft from the crank (leaving the threaded part) and get a longer flex.
Steve

Well thats a sigh of relief.. Yup you got it. Cut the nub of off the crank and get a 1/4 20 collet to thread on there, tis the proper way. Think the setup your running will haunt you.

You might be surprised at how long a 1/4 20 collet is.

Alden

 

[JOHNC]

Do as camaroboy says also remove low needle and cut off the point screw back in most boats carbs have no low needle increase nitro. 35% trinityrace fuel has worked for me in these bug engines. Put longer arm on servo for full open operation carb should be 1/3 open for idle