Twin Craft 30 build

[jeffwellman]

Hey All! Been reading your forums off and on over the years, and well it's time for me to get my feet wet again in this hobby after a 20 year break, due to college, job, kids, well you know, or some of you know. Anyways, I'm sure not that much has changed with this hobby...Yeah right.

I used to race 1/10th scale pan on carpet way back when, and played with boats in my leisure time. Went to college, got out of racing, but found a job in a hobby store. I decided to do another boat build, but never got around to completely finishing it. So, here I am now, and with all you guys who know way more than I, it's my mission to get this thing in the water, finally, after being carefully preserved with me during all of my moving around.

Now, here's what I have. If anything I have is worth replacing, please chime in on that aspect. I don't mind dumping some money on replacing things for new and much improved. (like maybe engine, pipe, servos...)

-30 Twin Craft, OS Max RZ M .21

-some type of muffled pipe. Don't know the make. On the back, it says .21 RE (picture to follow)

-Servos - FP-S132H for throttle, and S9303 for rudder.

-for electronics, I have a new Futaba 4PLS

I need a lot of help with setting up the radio box. I have the servos double sticky taped to the box as you'll see in the pictures to follow. I'm sure I need to mount them better. I also don't know how to install the box in the boat. I need to install a new stuffing tube too, and need help with how to do this the proper way. I like to do things the right way, not cutting any corners.

So that's the start of this thread. I expect this to take some time to do, as I'm pretty busy with two jobs, 1 4 year old, and 1 girl coming in January. So if there's some delay in my postings, that's why..

Pictures are coming next..

 

[jeffwellman]

 

[moparbarn]

Jeff, contact Dick Tyndall/elzorro on here. He has one of the best running .21 Twincrafts I've ever seen. If that is an Irwin quiet pipe (fairly certain it is), that's a VERY good pipe (-; Where are you located? That's a good looking hull, you'll have fun with it. Welcome back to RC!

 

[jeffwellman]

Thanks! I'm in St. Louis. Don't really know of any places to run this boat. I have a bass boat which I do some fishing here and there, so the plan is to take it with me on those trips, and play when the fish are all in my boat. Really looking forward to getting it going though. I've taken really good care of it over the years to make sure it's not harmed. Will reach out to Dick Tyndall. Appreciate it.

 

[Beau Parsons]

Jeff,

One thing I would do is take all the sheetmetal screws out and dispose of them, get some T- Nuts and use those, eventually sheetmetal screws strip out, I have learned this from a previous boat that used those screws. Do what you want just food for thought, looks like a clean boat to start with, makes building way easier in my opinion, looks great overall

Beau

 

[jeffwellman]

Totally agree Beau. T nuts, or lock nuts, will replace the screws. Good advice.

 

[Steve P]

The club in your area is the St. Louis Thunder Boaters. Dave Sandell is the club Pres.

get hold of him or Ken and Chuck Hildreth they can give you advice on the build and fill you in on where to run.

 

[brad nichols]

I agree that it is an Irwin pipe and if using T nuts the larger dia. back is better to distribute the load or use a fender washer under the locknut. Add the washers under your motor mount too or piece of aluminum sheet. You could contact Lenney Blake ( Rum Racing) as I thing he handles Twin Craft Hulls and could supply an instruction sheet for set-up. But still the best is to talk to others who run boats and get some ideas and help. Goo luck and it should be a great running and looking boat!!

Brad

 

[jeffwellman]

Ok, so sounds like I got a good pipe. I'm pretty sure this engine was pretty high end back in the day. Hope it's still able to run. Thanks all for your help!

 

[Beau Parsons]

Jeff,

As far as the radio box I would scratch the double sided tape idea, I would epoxy two pieces of wood aand mount the servos to the wood rails, to me would be easier to take out if a servo fails, double sided tape could be fun to undue, the on/off switch I would mount on the radio box lid easier to turn on/off, plus if I am wrong wont it be in the way of the motor rails when you mount the radio box?

Beau

 

[jeffwellman]

yeah, the double sided tape was what I did way back when I was trying to get it running years back. Carried over from my rc car days. I know this isn't ideal, and know it needs to be changed. Either with some rails and/or platform, or some servo trays of some sort. I've seen a lot of pics with those metal servo trays, and found that Lenny Blake (Rum Racing) makes them. I contacted him as recommended by Brad. He does not know anything about Twin Crafts but did say he could help with the servo trays possibly. As for the on/off switch, it didn't interfere with the rails the way I initially had the box mounted, which was glued to the hull. Not what I want to do. I really would like to have the radio box removable somehow, and need some suggestions on how that's done. The rails on this boat are pretty low in the back which is why I didn't have any issues with on/off.

 

[RC 90 Boat]

I run the same boat as you have with the same engine and pipe it runs very well 45 50 mph and rarely blows over very well designed twincraft heat racing boat, your set up looks good I would extend the rudder back maybe 1 to 2 inches. you might want to try a octura x440 3 blade prop or abc 1640 3 blade prop. I run a 10 oz main fuel tank and a 1 oz hopper tank and 50 percent nitro fuel . also run a 6 volt receiver pack. those little boats can really get around the pond and stay right side up.

 

[jeffwellman]

Wow Daryl that's super nice to hear you have the exact same setup. Guess I did good with my selections back in the day. As for my rudder, the one on it actually needs to be replaced as the top bushing is missing. I have a speedmaster rudder that I was planning on installing, but it has a different bracket which doesn't integrate with the strut bracket like my existing setup. I noticed the bracket does push it further out though, but not 1-2 inches further. I would love to see a few pics of yours if it's possible, showing me how you were able to push your rudder out. Also would like to see how you setup your radio box, and how you installed your box in the boat. I believe my prop is a 3 blade x440, but not exactly sure. Also if you have any info on your carb settings, I'd appreciate it. I don't have the manual or any info on the engine. thanks for your info thus far. Have to look into gas tanks and what a hopper tank is. Also was wondering on the fuel to run, which you already answered. Bummer I didn't wait till I ordered a receiver pack, as I just gor one of the 4.8V packs. Guess I can return it though, still in the box..

 

[brad nichols]

Install a bulk head in front and behind the radio box with some open eye hooks and use #64 elastic bands to hold the box in place. Install the bands in X pattern. 2 1/2 to 3 1/2 turns open on the needle and adjust from there, need some blue smoke out the pipe. Lean is not good for it, when running on the bench it should idel nice and when when you open the throttle it should sputter for a second or 2 and then pick-up. Pipe length and props all play a big part in the way it will run and at that point you really should get in contact with a club or experienced boater for help. Their knowledge and help at that point is very valuable and usually he may lend you a prop to try? Most all boaters are happy to help someone new and it is always better and more fun to run with people. I use a 1614/3 chopper from Mark on my A mono.

Brad

 

[jeffwellman]

Sounds like good solid advice there, so much appreciated. I'll plan on using plywood similar to the rails for front and back bulkheads. Should I be using resin/glass or epoxy for installing them? Should I be also installing a plywood bottom for the box to sit on, or just let the box sit on the bottom of the boat? If I put a bottom on it, access to the stuffing tube would probably be limited in the future, but it would allow the box to sit flat on the bottom vs. only at the sides with leaving it open. Also how do I handle the stuffing tube? Don't know if I should use two tubes so replacing the inner tube is easier in the future, or just use one tube which is the way it was installed. don't know how to handle the support of the stuffing tube near the engine either.

 

[RC 90 Boat]

Hi Jeff,

Carb high speed needle settings 2 ½ to 3 ½ turns out from fully seated bench setting. Run a few tanks fulls to break in the engine. You want to see a good smoke trail behind the boat. Then you can start leaning it down for more speed. Also, get some pool foam noodles for flotation in your boat – the purple ones would look good in your boat. I made a mistake on the prop recommendations. It is actually a ABC 1614 3-blade propeller. Feel free to ask any questions on your setup. I've attached some pics.

 

[jeffwellman]

Pics help alot, thank you very much. Wow your rudder is much further out. I'll have to think about how to extend it out, or look for a different bracket maybe. What's the tall bracket on the back for? Also how is your pipe supported? Do you have a mount for it?

 

[RC 90 Boat]

Hi Jeff the leading edge of the rudder to the transom is 4 inches the tall bracket is the tuned pipe mount I just use a aluminum speedmaster pipe mount with a 1 1/2 steel diameter cable hanger clamp to secure the pipe you can get them at most hardware stores. I use the red max fuel I think it is fhs supply they have a website you can checkout. Have fun with your build.

 

[brad nichols]

No bottom, put some plastic wrap on the bottom of the box and put some silicone in each corner and set the box down on it and let it harden over night. Be sure to sand where the rails will be glued to the stringers and I would use Epoxy. Some people glass the shatf log in or you can use silicone and I would use 2 tubes. The end by the engine can be done with layers of silicone or a plywood support and epoxy. Oh and do not forget the floatation!!!!!! No sense in it sinking and losing all that work and money.

Brad

 

[jeffwellman]

Well still getting things figured out. Gonna pick up some wood and work on the bulkheads. I noticed my strut is rusted out and mangled, so I'm going to go ahead and replace it too while I'm having to figure out how to mount a new rudder assy. I've been trying to find an extended rudder and all I can find is the speedmaster (SPDR-003A-SNG) single pickup and the (SPDRS-003A-DU) dual pickup. These are 3.2" from transom to front edge. Don't know what strut I should be looking at as a replacement. Speedmaster of some sort, flat bottom, round bottom...Sorry for all the questions. Don't know what I'm doing here and seem to keep running into issues.