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Dang Jay you were pulling prop with that puppy. Did you pull that amperage through a castle or were you running a schulze?
Those values were pulled through a Castle ICE240. I have been running the ICE200 airplane controller for almost three years with great results in my P Sport Hydro and P-Mono with just a fan for cooling. The ICE240 was brand new for the SAW boat; I made 19 sets of passes at the SAWs without a hickup, and I've been oval racing it in my Q Sport Hydro ever since. It has been a great controller!

This is supposed to be 43 inches Jay but when I measure it along the bow from the transom I only get 40. I remembered you said they come in a lil short. Do you think I can SAW this boat with one 1527 on 10 s lipo ?
Most of Aeromarine hulls are a bit short. I asked Remy Jr about it several years ago and he said they measure by running a tape across the deck rather than parallel to the hull. The Titan 40 is listed as 33" but it is just short of 34". Doesn't make sense to me but whatever, they make very good boat hulls regardless of the length.

The 1527 will be highly stressed in that huge hull on 10S. I know guys who tried that motor on 10S for oval racing and unless they were trying to de-tune the boat (run with slower nitro boats) the motors didn't work all that well. As I recall they ran hot and wouldn't swing a big enough prop to compete with the larger motors. I really think you'll need to run at least a Neu 2215 if you are serious about competing.

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Jim,Dons running 1530's now. Ive never asked him how he likes them though. I was thinking with such a large footprint this hull does need a 56mm series motor. A 2028 would really be nice in here.Once I tear the drive line out ill be commited to the twins. I hate to change right in the middle of a build but I may coz if its not going to be right then its not worth having. A Gordon 4 is really providing some major hydro inspiration right now so buy tommorrow theres no telling what this build may become. If you guys dont know what a Gordon 4 is Ill let you research it for yourself. Some amendments would have to be made for it to be legal but if you saw the vessel youd be amazed at how much of a trendsetter the creator was in his day. Current new designs are just getting back to where this man left off back in the 20's and 30's :blink: .Posting a photo will commit me to the build so I wont do it. But im thinking........ALOT!

The mans name is Ernie Clark
 
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Okay heres what Im gonna do . Im going to refinish the sprintcat and set it up for a 56mm series or larger single motor and set its aside till I get the $$$ for the big can. what im going to do here is go in an entirely different direction.

THE GORDON 4 Gordon 4.jpg this boat built by Ernie Clark has inspired my creative spirit so Im going to build a hydroplane from scratch with some of its design features in mind, and simply run the boat. I will have to make some amendments to make it legal to race. If Im unable to bring it in compliance with the rules. SO what I wont race it Ill just run it and develop it for personal enjoyment and pleasure. Im done letting people steal my boating joy and end up leaving boating like my best friend ( Kenneth Stone) did 20 years ago. I wont race a single **** race if people gotta act stupid!I love rc boats and people. Im not letting anyone take that away for the sake of a self stroking trophy or get myself caught up with being ugly to people.That aint the way!

Anyway do the sponsons remind you of any new designs?????? :)

Info on Ernie Clark: http://www.onthewire.co.uk/clark2.htm

You have to truly love boats to enjoy this as much as I do.... Anyone that can help give me feedback on the rules as they see fit. Please feel free to inject that info as you please . Please no one come here with ignorance in mind. If no one else will enjoy this build I will so please dont come here with any negativity otherwise you are free and more than welcomed to offer me advice and help as I do get rather excited and overlook things from time to time.

As a twin or single in my mind it looks like it might have some killer potential. What do you think?
 
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I too enjoy the look of the retro tether hulls of the 40s and 50s, building one would be very cool. The biggest problem with the G4 is the open afterplane, that would be tough to make legal for Sport Hydro racing - but no problem at all for Hydro racing. I suspect that the tub has too much lift for high FE speeds, but that shouldn't be a problem to fix. Some of the reatures of this boat were used in one of my WOF cats, which held the NAMBA Q-Offshore SAW record for 6 years. Go for it...

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Thanks for the support Fluid! How could I modify the afterplane surface. I was thinking back towards the rear to put some body back there if you know what I mean. Like a two winged circus. Im going to get on the saw this morning and see what I can come up with.For the sprintcat fans im going to continue to refinsh her as well. Thanks again JayT for the support. I was thinking 36 to 40 inches on this one.
 
About the sprincat if was thinking if the 1527 has a continuos work duty of 4500 watts then I could spin on P power @ 1250 kv and Id be turning around 21k unloaded. If I take 4500 watts and divide that by 16.8 I get 268 amps so why not try it @ 4s4p :unsure: ? The neu will have more torque at the lower rpm. The lower rpm will let my use a bigger prop effectively moving the big hull.Jay whats a good big prop for this hull? At that rpm Im thinking between @ detounged 460-470 after it gets on plane it wont see 268 amps with hi flow water cooling it should do it . The motor can handle 200 amps cont for a heat race and definately 268 for saw. Id just pitch up the 4 series.Im just going to try it. I may get one of bens 400 amp units for good measure tho I think the castle can take it. If you have a big hull to move then lower rpm with larger diameter prop seems to make sense :huh: .Pitch for SAW! 4500 watts is a fair race for a .90 craft.
 
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How could I modify the afterplane surface. I was thinking back towards the rear to put some body back there if you know what I mean. Like a two winged circus.
My best suggestion is to read the racing rules from IMPBA and NAMBA to see what needs to be done to be legal for Q Sport Hydro. To race in Hydro then no hull mods are needed. Hydro is pretty wide-open for desgns.


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About the sprincat if was thinking if the 1527 has a continuos work duty of 4500 watts then I could spin on P power @ 1250 kv and Id be turning around 21k unloaded. If I take 4500 watts and divide that by 16.8 I get 268 amps so why not try it @ 4s4p :unsure: ? The neu will have more torque at the lower rpm. The lower rpm will let my use a bigger prop effectively moving the big hull.
Actually you will get well over 300 amps on 4s (4500/14.8=304 amps, but actual voltage at 300+ amps will be closer to 13.5 volts giving 333 amps). But the real problem is that the motor will be much less efficient on the low4S voltage. Plus you would be down in the range of gas rpm, meaning a huge prop for speed - loading the inefficient motor even more and causing prop walk issues. I'd not go that route.
Jay whats a good big prop for this hull? At that rpm Im thinking between @ detounged 460-470 after it gets on plane it wont see 268 amps with hi flow water cooling it should do it . The motor can handle 200 amps cont for a heat race and definately 268 for saw.
You will get plenty of speed with 60-65mm props; our heat race T Monos and Cats can achieve ~75 mph in heat trim (on flat water!) running 10S2P and either 3360 Lehners or 2215 Neus spinning the x462 prop - pitched up a bit. The 1527 motor will just not do too well in a heat race pulling 200 amps average, even with good cold water flow. That's a lot of watts, it is much happier at 150 amps. Several guys have proven this, they built 1527-powered 42"+ boats and went up to the 2215s very quickly. For SAWs it would be okay, but not enough torque to pull a big enough prop.
If you have a big hull to move then lower rpm with larger diameter prop seems to make sense :huh: .Pitch for SAW!
Actually, it is rpm for FE SAW racing. The gas guys only wish they had our rpm. Spin a pitched-up x462 mm prop at 35,000 rpm and see what real speed is about....if you can keep it on the water that is. ;) :lol:



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I used the marine tex on the sponson. I havent sanded it yet but I have to say Its looking like a really good product. Had good working time but once it set up it set up quick. Its definately adhering to the fiberglass and wood that resides under the repair. Jay lets run it with the twin 1527's 1Y's. Im going to order the speedmaster struts tonight. Im going to stay with 1/4" flexes turned down to 3/16ths shafts. Now Im thinking 8s 42-52mm on the props?I Ill power the G4 inspired boat with a 1717.
 
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I left it to cure overnight and it is HARD! Time to cut it down with some sandpaper.If I have patience, and do it right it wont look so bad.I dont think I need to worry about its adhesive properties as I couldnt get a cured piece off a glass that was in the shop :eek: .
 
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Picture 094.jpg

Add some feathering glaze for the pinholes and Im done .It looks alot better that what I recieved. Now both sponsons are pointed down like they are supposed to be :rolleyes: .
 
Wow I went back and measured something coz it jsut didnt look right and found it. The previous repair to the sponson took away almost a 1/4 of an inch in length. Its so funny when you buy something used from some folks how theyre not truly honest. Wen the andle of attack on the bow of the sponson and length have been altered 1/4 inch or more that hardly a "minor" repair. To think the seller wouldnt budge on the price for anyone , but yet shipped me ballast and a boat with a sponson pointing towards the sky that sucks. The individuals that are responsible for this S@@T! know who you are. Shipping is 50$ when you leave 4 d batteries in each freakin sponson and ship the boat. The only thing in this boat that was worth a flip was the purple head CMB 1.00 and the radio box. To me this hull aint worth dollars. ill have 3 or 4 days labor in trying to square it back up. They used silicone to glue the deck seams back as they had broken. What were you thinking???? You dont glue fiberglass together with freakin silicone glue, that would be a fish tank.It will be 100 dollars in supplies to correct all its problems and after not one sole will buy this garbage and I wouldnt sell it to them.the rudder blade has been cut too short as well :rolleyes: . Don, i told you i had a feeling i got myself into some bull*%T and I did. I hope youll have a cement wall at the end of the saw lane to run this GARBAGE into coz thats exactly what it is. im so glad no one purchased this hull from me coz I dont sell people stuff like this. Ask anyone I sold to Im honest fair and when they recieve it its what I said it is. 500.00 dollars my A$$! I Feel like one too for buying this manure!!!!!!!!!!!!

Hugh

jay i wont dignify this hull with my neus sorry its barely worth a mabuchi 540 i guess ill buy a tp for it seeings that the motor will be worth 3 times this hull. They cost 140 do the math! :blink: :blink: :blink: :blink:

Im sorry modders but this aint the kind of selling that needs to go on in the FS section. So you can remove this post if you choose but people need to be aware that some folks are willing to cover and hide bs under paint then sell it like its top notch unwilling to bend on the price. Totally wrong!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
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If i could be on the water with the seller ID RUB THE HELL OUTTA YOUR HULL SO IT WOULD BE GARBAGE LIKE YOU SOLD ME I WOULDNT EVEN CARE IF THEY DQED ME!!!!

JULIAN I SHOULD HAVE BROUGHT YOUR SEADUCER LIKE YOU TOLD ME!!!!!! INSTEAD OF THIS CRAP!!!!!!

Playing with my cash is a sure way to get me unglued!!!
 
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AEROMARINE SUSPENDED TILL FURTHER NOTICE ! IM NOT WASTING MY TIME RIGHT NOW! LATER GUYS I have larger fish to fry!!!!!
 
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