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dr gary turner

Well-Known Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Dec 25, 2004
Messages
2,752
I ran the motor without water to break it in last Sat. In the first tank looked really good. Next tank absolutely flat. Would not get on the pipe.

THE FACTS: JAE hull, 60% O donnell fuel. Pipes S-pipe OPS pipe. Deck at .008-.009 Several props tried.

I am not a fan of the head button more angle on the squish area than the piston.

I had plan to run it in my 21 Jag but don't think it has the guts as is.

Any ideas??????????
 
I ran the motor without water to break it in last Sat. In the first tank looked really good. Next tank absolutely flat. Would not get on the pipe.

THE FACTS: JAE hull, 60% O donnell fuel. Pipes S-pipe OPS pipe. Deck at .008-.009 Several props tried.

I am not a fan of the head button more angle on the squish area than the piston.

I had plan to run it in my 21 Jag but don't think it has the guts as is.

Any ideas??????????
Doc, how many tanks of fuel have you run?Still running without water? How is the temp ? If I remember right you have the one with the low timed sleeve so it should have plenty of guts to pull any .21 prop. Give me a call maybe we can figure it out.

GQ
 
First tank looked really good? how hard did u run it with no water? I hope it was cackling rich.
 
First tank looked really good? how hard did u run it with no water? I hope it was cackling rich.
It was rich and seemed to have good power. It still is very tight at the top. I ran two tanks w/o water. Cowl off and it was a cool day last Sat. Then ran water and was just flat and would not get on the pipe. I guess I may have smoke it. Running w/o water is not my "style"
 
So it ran great before u put the water to it. No cooling is the best way to break them in, just dont overprop it and keep it rich..If it starts to clean out and rev too much just slow down and let it cool off for a lap, do not let it go lean. After it starts to loosen up you can hook up the water, It may take at least a half gallon. The stock water cap provides a lot of cooling, you will need to restrict the water so it gets up to temp, especially if your running the stock head volume. That engine will take a while to break in also, if you treat it well until it has a nice little nip at tdc it will last a long time.
 
Doc, yes, just like Martin said...with only two tanks through it, it was not time to add water. At that point is should still be crazy rich and the fuel is supplying all the cooling it needs. When you added the extra cooling it was keeping the P/S fit way too tight and not letting the motor burn the fuel properly.

Oh yes I forgot to add...if you are running good fuel the heat will NOT hurt the motor. I watched them break a motor in at the factory at 142 degree C (just under 300 degree F) and 38,800 rpm for 20 minutes (the temp when we got done was 152 degree C). This was to break in a motor for one of the team drivers!

GQ
 
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Doc, yes, just like Martin said...with only two tanks through it, it was not time to add water. At that point is should still be crazy rich and the fuel is supplying all the cooling it needs. When you added the extra cooling it was keeping the P/S fit way too tight and not letting the motor burn the fuel properly.

Oh yes I forgot to add...if you are running good fuel the heat will NOT hurt the motor. I watched them break a motor in at the factory at 142 degree C (just under 300 degree F) and 38,800 rpm for 20 minutes (the temp when we got done was 152 degree C). This was to break in a motor for one of the team drivers!

GQ
You put that one in your pocket right? :p
 
This motor has PLENTY of grunt! Martin finally twisted my arm enough last year to get me to buy a couple. Its by far the most powerful 21 I have ran to date. Last year at H-Ville when I made my fastest pass to date (74 mph) I was running a 1914 at 45.5mm, 4.0 cup. And it wanted more. NR pipe at 6 3/4. Looking for 80 this year with a new boat. We shall see!
 
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