Sport 40 FE

Intlwaters

Help Support Intlwaters:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
A 1527 has a 4" can length and 40mm diameter. Rated at 4500watts peak. The 1530 is a 40mm 4 1/4" can and probably 5000watts peak and a few ounces heavier. Multiply kv X volts and you get unloaded rpm. 1100 X 22.2 = 24420 rpm. 1250 X 22.2 = 27750 rpm. Higher kv is like higher gears and won't pull as much diameter props. Actual rpm will be 80% - 85% loaded. The 1530 has more potential power and may push an ESC a little h arder. Basically 5000w divided by 22.2v if you use 6S will pull 225 amps. the 4500 a little less at 202 amps. Going to 8S 29.6v would push rpm to 36500 on the 1100kv and 37000 on the 1250kv. Amps would go down to 169 on the 5000w 1530 and 152 on the 1527 (4500w) motors. Hope this helps your understanding. 8S would be much faster but need more millieamps total which means more weight to carry. Also you can overprop and pull a lot more peak amps than the formula. A 200-240 amp ESC will work but not have much room for error. (SMOKE) Somewhere like multi engine dragsters there's a point where more power doesn't mean you go faster. Mic
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Both have the same can/rotor diameter but the 1530 is a little longer (think more torque). I am hear to tell you, the 1527 1Y (1250kv) is what you want. that is more than enough to push today's "Sport 40" hulls to mid 60's

Later

Mike
 
Mike is correct a 1527 will surprise you. These things will spool up some rpms. When you go to larger cans like 56mm diameter X 92mm long the rotor is much larger and the centrifugal force greater making them not friendly to high RPM. More torque though.
 
I'm taking Mikes advice, I just didn't know what the difference where and what the KV was all about. I'm new to FE so I wanted to get as much info as possible.
 
Here you go sam when you get it setup to do 105 I come watch, This guy out east has done it with one of my boats, he wore one out and I had to make him another one this year. :eek: http://forums.offsho...ght=#post511275
Phil I couldn't see the site. From the pictures I've seen the motor sits pretty far back behind the back of the sponsons.
Go sign up on offshore electrics lot of infor there. You just hve to go for the same balance as the nitro version, maybe you can have the BP a bit further back with the extra weight of the FE setup.
 
Focus on the location of your battery packs first getting them as far forward as possible since they represent the most weight. Then play around with motor and ESC locations from there. I would recommend you try to get your CG or balance point just as you would a nitro boat, an FE will kite just as easily as a nitro if the CG is too far back.
 
I am using one of Jim Williams through hull motor mounts. They can be found here www.southriverrcboats.com

This set up has allowed me some CG adjustment with the batteries.

Later,

Mike

IMG_0064.JPG

IMG_0065.JPG

IMG_0066.JPG

IMG_0067.JPG

IMG_0068.JPG

IMG_0069.JPG

IMG_0070.JPG

IMG_0071.JPG

IMG_0072.JPG
 
Last edited by a moderator:
have anyone tried the seaking 130 hv with the neu 1527 on 6s
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Jeff the 1527 is too big for the 130.I'm running a 4074 with this esc and its ok but for the Neu 240 follow Jim's advice with a capbank if it's a Castle !!.Gill
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I got some parts laid out for a not bad COG in this AC Pro II, the Williams rail mount is a beautiful thing but I think I'm going to have to save it for a scale and go with the bottom mount.

P1010734_zpse3520a2e.jpg
 
Back
Top