Servo recommendation

[WikiWiki1]

Hi, I am getting all the components together to build my first 1/8 scale hydro. I am looking to find the best servos to use for the rudder and throttle. I see some guys using very light standard servos and other guys using high torque digital units. The digital ones have great attributes but I think they may be overkill. On the other hand I don't want my boat handling oddly and maybe damaging another guys boat because of a weak servo.

Brent

 

[Roy Munoz]

I use a Airtronic 94359..It has 200 0z of tork and it a standred size..I use standred servo for the rest...If you have room for them if not use mini servo,s

 

[Brian MAhoney]

Hi, I am getting all the components together to build my first 1/8 scale hydro. I am looking to find the best servos to use for the rudder and throttle. I see some guys using very light standard servos and other guys using high torque digital units. The digital ones have great attributes but I think they may be overkill. On the other hand I don't want my boat handling oddly and maybe damaging another guys boat because of a weak servo.
                        Brent

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How much does a 1/8 scale cost? A high torque digital servo is cheap by comaprison, definitly not overkill.

 

[Big Red Machine]

So here's a recommendation:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?&I=LXUZ81

I like having the digital servo on the rudder because it does not waiver and the circuitry holds the signal you give it constantly. Non-digitals also do that, but not with as active a circuit as the digital. Overkill in inch-ounces is peace-of-mind in having enough umph to easily get it thru a turn.

Somebody, quick do a calculation of the boat weight against the rudder in a turn at 50 mph and let's see what we really need for torque + some safety factor.

 

[Don Ferrette]

So here's a recommendation:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?&I=LXUZ81

I like having the digital servo on the rudder because it does not waiver and the circuitry holds the signal you give it constantly.  Non-digitals also do that, but not with as active a circuit as the digital.  Overkill in inch-ounces is peace-of-mind in having enough umph to easily get it thru a turn.

Somebody, quick do a calculation of the boat weight against the rudder in a turn at 50 mph and let's see what we really need for torque + some safety factor.

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Digital servos do not like moisture or vibration. If you have room for a 1/4 scale sized servo use the Futaba 3302. The bigger metal gears in the 3302 are stronger than standard case gearsets. If space is tight I prefer the Futaba 9405 for steering. B)

 

[Joe Reese]

Hey Don,

I have not had a problem with my digital 10th scale Hitec servo! I love the sound of a digital.

I have got I have one in my Mongoose .90 rigger, and one in my SDX45 drag hydro sport class, and one in my .21 mod tunnel boat. My tunnel boat is going on three years with some hard flips and only two times I had to exchange the servo under warranty due to a burnt mosfit amplyfiyer.

Tower hobbies use to give me the hole box with parts and a new servo. Their turn around is about 8 day for warranty if you send out for replacement.

Good luck!

 

[Preston_Hall]

I hate to bring this up again, but if a digital servo receives a glitch then you are toast. I don't know if it was a signal or power glitch but just "glitch" for now.

My experience was with a Hitec 5945. It received some type of glitch and "lost power" for about 1 to 1.5 seconds. The boat was in the bank by the time it resumed operation. When you turn the power on to the boat a digital servo takes a moment to initialize. This was the same moment I incurred after my glitch.

In summary, I would rather have a glitch as opposed to temporary shut down, therefore, no digitals for me. Besides, digitals are best where precision counts (cars, helis). You will never know the difference if your radio has been setup correctly.

I don't know what torque is needed for a 1/8 scale but I am partial to the Futaba 9202 for it's power and price. You get close to 100 in.oz. @ 6V. Other than that, some type of 1/4 scale servo.

 

[Eric Bourlet]

I use a Airtronic 94359..It has 200 0z of tork and it a standred size..I use standred servo for the rest...If you have room for them if not use mini servo,s

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I would agree with the Airtronics 94359 recommendation. You can save a little money by going with the Airtronics 94358 it is the exact same servo less the aluminum case. The aluminum case is nice for RC car applications but not really an advantage for our uses. I use the 94358 in everything from my .21 tunnels up to and including my Gas Sport Hydro and Gas Mono. It is a great standard size servo that fits just about any steering application. I would stay away from the Digital servos for your application stay with a good high torque coreless servo.

In the interest of full disclosure I am a member of Team Airtronics even so I truly believe they make great servos. And the 94358 is a great one for your application.

 

[troymcintire]

Brent, Listen to Don. I have had the same experience and have never had a 3302 go bad. Troy

 

[Don Ferrette]

I hate to bring this up again, but if a digital servo receives a glitch then you are toast. I don't know if it was a signal or power glitch but just "glitch" for now.
My experience was with a Hitec 5945. It received some type of glitch and "lost power" for about 1 to 1.5 seconds. The boat was in the bank by the time it resumed operation. When you turn the power on to the boat a digital servo takes a moment to initialize. This was the same moment I incurred after my glitch.

In summary, I would rather have a glitch as opposed to temporary shut down, therefore, no digitals for me. Besides, digitals are best where precision counts (cars, helis). You will never know the difference if your radio has been setup correctly.

I don't know what torque is needed for a 1/8 scale but I am partial to the Futaba 9202 for it's power and price. You get close to 100 in.oz. @ 6V. Other than that, some type of 1/4 scale servo.

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The 9202 uses a nylon gearset & has 98oz. torque @ 6v

The 9405 uses a metal gearset & has 100oz. torque @ 6v

The 3302 uses a metal gearset & has 162oz. torque @ 6v

And if you want Killer power the 5301 uses a metal gearset & has 292oz. @ 6v (I use these in my twins)

The 3302, if you can squeeze it in, is the best bang for the buck @ $49.99 from Tower Hobbies. B)

 

[WikiWiki1]

Anybody have any experience with the JR Z650M? It is not digital but it has metal gears 142 oz torque and only weighs 1.6 oz and is also standard size.

http://www.jrradios.com/Products/Default.a...ProdID=JRPSZ650

Brent

 

[Don Ferrette]

Anybody have any experience with the JR Z650M?  It is not digital but it has metal gears 142 oz torque and only weighs 1.6 oz and is also standard size.http://www.jrradios.com/Products/Default.a...ProdID=JRPSZ650 

        Brent

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Brent, did you miss the part about how the larger 3302 gearset will be much stronger. You're turning a large boat which also leads me to point out in JR's description of the Z650-

"and small high-performance, high-speed boats that require maximum rudder control."

Key in on the word small. Trust me one this one, if you can get the 3302 in there you will be alot happier in the long run.

 

[WikiWiki1]

I'm just checking out all the diferent options and checking to see if anyone has

imput on them. The S3302 looks like it is bullet proof.