question about JB Weld

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ww29

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 16, 2006
Messages
1,245
can i use jd weld to hold my pipe and header together?will it last?
 
thanks ray what can i use to make the header and pipe perminate
 
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Sorry for the hi jack but i remember back when i ran 7.5 kaboom in a rigger and was sick of breaking cranks and bustin holes in my crank case. So i just replaced the crank and JB welded the hole closed in the case. Every time that sucker would blow a crank it just busted out the weld and i just fill it back in and replace the crank again. Did that for about 3 cranks till the case was total garbage. Got almost a full year out of that case. lol

Now back to the program
 
what is best option besides coupler or weld. something perminate
 
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the problem is were the header is cut off it is about 1/4 inch from bend in header and cant get anything on it to hold it snug
 
here you go:

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXNS84&P=7

ofnc1083.jpg


All I use on my nova headers. Works awesome. PITA to get on there, but once you do, its good to go.
 
thanks rodney. i also have the nova header. that will fix it
 
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the problem is were the header is cut off it is about 1/4 inch from bend in header and cant get anything on it to hold it snug
I see what you are trying to do...I had the same problem. The solution is to JB Weld a piece of aluminum wire (0.030" will do) around the perimeter of the header. Then use a ziptie to hold the silicon coupler behind the wire. It will hold and work quite well on a .21. I have found that the heat of a .45 will breakdown the JB weld quickly so it will not work on large engines.
 
here is 2 pics hope it helps.the header goes in almost 1/4 inch. everyone i talked to was telling me to cut the header as short as possible

001.JPG

002.JPG
 
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use that coupler I posted above. It will work just grand for that. But next time cut the header so that it slips into the pipe a little bit.
 
The coupler up on that taper of the front cone will want to slip out so you will need a mod like was described earlier for the coupling to go over and get a grip on. The header end will be fine, the coupling should just slip up on and around the curve a bit. I would heat a teflon coupler really good and and get it a good way up the header and let it bell out and get it up the pipe as far as you can

then screw a couple very small stainless sheetmetal screws with small washers under there heads so they don't work through the teflon and screw them right through into the pipe and it will hold the pipe in the coupler very well. I had a pipe that just refused to stay in a teflon coupler and we all know they don't clamp very sucessfully so I tried that screw trick and it hasn't moved in two years.
 
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