Prop mods

[jaso]

Hi all, just wondering if anyone has good sources for prop modifing on the net . I've looked through all the info I can find on this forum but,I would still like to find more info that can help me to mod props and maybe not have too many ruin props that are no good to use.

I'm mostly interested in surface drive for outriggers.

Jaso. ;D

 

[lohring-miller]

Some of the best information from Marty Davis is at http://rcboat.com/prop.htm

Lohring Miller

 

[user 115]

What about info like what materials to use to sharpen and balance? Buffing wheels? Dremel Tool? WHat compounds? What attachments for the dremel?

The different types of cuts and their affects is well documented, curious as to what to use to apply the various ideals..

Thanks,

Charley

 

[nitrotoys]

I would start with glasses and dust mask, and if your new to props, use a file and dremel at low speeds.

and eather can balance on razor blades in a peice of wood, and a shaft, or get a balancer. Octura makes one, one where theres magnets, seems to work ok.

Best is to start by sharpening them, and making sure you got a good balence. then you can run the boat and then cut and bar cut, or back cut, or take the tongue off the prop to suit YOUR BOATS NEEDS.

Not all boats run on the same props, a modded one may work on one, but not the other.

I just found out my V gass boat, runs better with a prop made up for a Cat.

NT

 

[ClayGlover]

some useful info here-

http://www.shark-racing.com/Ingles/Tecnica...a/Heliceing.htm

http://www.shark-racing.com/Ingles/Tecnica...doheliceing.htm

http://www.shark-racing.com/Ingles/Tecnica...cebalancing.htm

for workng on them, i use coarse and fine 6" wire wheels on a bench grinder for general deburring and smoothing props, as well thinning and balancing. it is by far the quickest, easiest, and best method i've come across. as has been stressed past posts, use eye protection and a breather. the beryllium copper dust is nasty stuff. the wheels produce a fantastic finish from the hub all across the blades. then i sharpen the leading edges like a razor, and square off the trailing edge to a sharp 90 degree corner to the blade face with a hand file. you can use cloth wheels and compounds to polish them if you like 'em all sparkly. you have to check the balance again while buffing, to much work for me. watch your fingers ;D

oh, man don't hold the props with your bare hands when doing the grinder thing!

 

[user 115]

Clay,

Thanks a ton.. That's what I was looking for....

Charley

 

[jaso]

Mmmm, very interesting. ;D ;D ;D

 

[Doubledog]

P275ss

Took a little while to get this way, but the results are worth every minute. SS is harder to work but it doesn't dull up like the copper props.

View attachment 517

 

[Doubledog]

Here's some full scale props I have laying around the house.

View attachment 518

 

[Doubledog]

Octura X470/3

I hate working three blades. :-X

View attachment 519

 

[jaso]

Those props look sweet. Just wondering, are you running a square drive flex coupling, I see you have no clearance at the strut . If that is the case, what advantage does this system have over others and why?

I've always run clearance with a clamping "flexhex" type system and always wonder if there was any performance gains to be had with a square drive system. Also I've seen that many or most people are not using any type of thrust washer with a conventional type set up so does this mean the engine bearings have to bear the thrust. And, does this effect the way the flex cable runs in the stuffing tube.What I mean is does the cable twist because of the load and try to contract lenghth ways but because there is nothing to pull up against at the strut, it can get a whip effect going in the stuffing tube? Sounds a bit confusing trying to explain what I mean, but hopfully you may understand where I coming from? ???

 

[user 115]

DD,

Props look great.. What was your process to get them to look like that? Files? Dremel? Different grinding wheels?

Thanks,

Charley