Prop mod Questions.

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The gas props I'm working on are very big in realtion to some of the nitro props. There is alot of material to remove in order to get them thin and sharp. What I use is a Dremel with a reinforced grinding wheel. These are not to be mistaken for the junk wheels that comes with your Dremel. They need to be thrown out! The reinforced wheels are made by Dremel and cost around $5.00 for a pack of five. Alittle expencive, but they last along time and don't explode like the cheap ones that come with the tool. I use this and the drum sander bits to get it close to what I want. Then I break out the files and finish shaping the prop to get it sharp and ballenced. After that I use sand paper to get the file marks out and buff it to a shine.

I hear the small air grinders work well too. The grinding disks are cheaper too!
 
Like Don said, Suprised Andy has any finger tips left.

Im sure than man NEEDS Help, and can not do them all on his own, Maybe he did hire someone else. Hell Maybe he hired 2 more.

And if he didnt, My fingers hurt for you Andy. I know what its like modding one.

your fingers get tired and sore and sometimes cut.

Never the less, if Andy has hired help for props, I woulndt worry, its still the same CMDi Quality. His props are very nice, Like PAPER :) ))

I start with a belt sander, and work there for rough sanding. then a sanding wheel and then hand sand finer, and hand polish.

Tom
 
Rodney,

You can pick up a 6" grinder from Sears or Home Depot. Now the 3M wheels

are a little tougher to find. Go to a 3M dealer and look in the catalog for a

2Sfine wheel or what ever finish you would like to make. 3M has plenty of

wheels and you have to try a few until you find the one that WORKS FOR YOU.

Oh, by the way the wheels are 6" x 1/2" pretty thin,but they WORK GREAT.

Make sure you pick up the toxic face mask at HOME DEPOT first. B)

Thanks,

Mark Sholund
 
Mark is absolutely right, the FIRST thing you should buy is the mask. The dust particles you create sanding on these props is very toxic. Latex gloves are another thing to consider, or at the very least, thoroughly washing your hands when you are done. :unsure:
 
Joe_Knesek said:
Or pay someone like Andy or Mark to do them for you!
Exactly. I buy props from Andy & Mark, both do nice work. Randy Rapedius did nice props too but he's out of the prop biz now. :unsure:
 
The biggest pain for a newby trying to mod props was/is getting the blades the exact same.
Try this. When you get one blade about where you want it, press it into a chunk of modelling clay. Then you will have an impression to compare the other blade with as you work it.
 
I've had decent results using 6" wire wheels from home depot. Haven't located the 3m wheels yet.

I have the tools, and yet still buy props already done.
 
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I believe Andy has some one do all the sharping and balancing. He then goes through and does the cupping. I think it is a girl. I seem to recall this from a race in Montana that Andy went to. It was during the after race barbeque. Hard to remember with all that beer drinking going on. :lol:

Mike
 
That G-23 / Twincraft should be pulling an X-472 with the tongues trimmed, or better yet, a cut down/pitched up 1475 like Andy does them. Also an ABC H-31 with a little pitch added, or a well finished & slightly reduced Prather 280.

Hey Don, lookit me! I'm a newbie! It's like when you have that dream about going out to the mall naked.
 
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"Hey Don, lookit me! I'm a newbie! It's like when you have that dream about going out to the mall naked."

Glad I'm not the only one who has those "naked" dreams. Weren't we supposed to outgrow that somewhere around .......... puberty! :lol: :lol: :lol:
 
Yeah, Don, you're kinda naked too there, buddy. You're a beginner. :p

As for the dream, we never really get over either being a dork or the fear of being one. That's what makes us keep trying to conform. You ARE at least trying, right?
 
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