PAINT WARNING !!!!!!!!!!

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waterbug

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 12, 2003
Messages
1,323
Guys don't say I told you so !!!!! :'( I took my new D27 to the lake for it's test run , had started it 3 times at home , set up my equipment fueled that baby up put the glow driver on[ I use a power panel] and nothing !!! NO FIRE !!!! What the ??? tried everything and still nothing . I will not loose my KOOL !!! Loaded up came home and unloaded I'm going to see whats up!!!! Hooked it up put the same plugs I used at the pond in the glow driver and @#$%^&**()(@#$% they were working now???????????????????????

I'll just clean her up it's OK !!!! Took the cowl off and noticed fuel and oil in the tank compartment ??? didn't tighten the main tank stopper, pulled the tank and @@#$%^&*())(*&^%$#@ all the paint was screwed and the transom doubler on one side was loose !!!

I used white appliance epoxy on the sponsons and RUSTOLEUM BLUE with a top coat of TOPFLITE LUSTER COAT CLEAR !!! 5 coats and 10% fuel destroyed it and the CA GLUE I used to install the transom doubler and attach the bottom sheeting to the frame !!!!

GOD DID ME A FAVOR TODAY !!!!!!!! ALL YOU NEWBIES TAKE HEED AND DO NOT CUT CORNERS !!!! USE EPOXY OR AUTO PAINTS AND CLEAR COATS !!!!!!

BECAUSE I HAVE A MESS AND WILL HAVE TO REMOVE EVERY BIT OF BLUE ON MY HULL OR JUST THE CENTER SECTION AND COAT IT WITH BALSA RITE BEFORE ANYTHING WILL STICK . USE AUTOMOTIVE CLEAR COAT AND PAINT AND NOTHING ELSE !!!!! The appliance epoxy is great but you are limited to white and beige .
 
Ummm, I would also like to add some info for newbies while we are on the subject of painting:

I used Topflite Lustrekote primer on my friend Christina's Villain (kit #12) and then pink Tamiya acrylic for color, then Topflite Lustrekote crystal clear. After applying decals to the color coat, I was ready for the final clearcoat, and then .....race ready.

As soon as the Topflite Clearcoat came in contact with the Tamiya acrylic, the pink paint liquefied and melted like a strawberry ice cream sundae on a hot summer day.

Lesson I learned: Stick with the same brand of paint, and make sure they are also made of the same base (acrylic with acrylic, enamel with enamel, Lustrekote with Lustrekote).
 
Well she was not as bad as I first thought !! Luckally I used rustoleum automotive nonsandable primer and had just not sprayed enough in the very rear compartment . The rest of the tank compartment had a good coat of primer and the paint had just lifted off. I have now striped and epoxyed the hole thing up to the radio box. I will now spray the compartment with appliance epoxy white.

But now I am wondering if I spray the auto clear coat on , If it will effect the rustoleum and luster coat clear that is on the rest of the boat where it is blue now ??

ANY COMMENTS OR ADVICE ???????
 
JEFF IS RIGHT!!!! I WAS A PAINTER IN A BODY SHOP FOR LITTLE OVER 5 yrs. FOR BEST RESULTS DON'T MIX ANYTHING. WHAT EVER PAINT YOU START WITH PLAN TO USE THE SAME ALL THE WAY. SAVES A LOT OF PAIN AND WILL LOOK & LAST LONGER ALSO.
 
Joe

Ok !!! I think the Rusoleum is a enamel paint. Could I spray Acrilic Enamel clear over it ???
 
Acrylic isn't fuelproof. I would paint a random piece of wood with some coats that are just as heavy as you would apply to your boat and use it for a test bed. The alternative is to rush the project and find out that it didn't work: the hard way.
 
I'm going to spray some automotive clear coat on some test strips and make sure the rustoleum don't melt !!!

In another thread they had painted over Lustercoat and it had great results so I know that part will work.
 
WB, be careful which LusterCote you use. The older stuff is lacquer based. You can paint over it after it's cured, but if you use it to topcoat other paints (including other lacquers!), LIFT CITY!! Go ahead...ask me how I know. : :)

Top Flite has just started producing a polyurethane LusterCote that is supposed to be more compatible.
 
I sprayed the HH .12 Prototype with Krylon epoxy paint! It comes in more colors than Harvest Gold and Avacado Green nowadays. OK, it is Kelvinator White though. After running some 50% nitro through it, I have yet to have any trouble with it lifting and I'm sloppy with fuel. I probably won't paint using White again, it shows every time that I touch it. #2 will most likely be Formula-U Yellow.

Oh yeah, PJ, how do you know? ;D
 
PJ

So far I have found that if the rusoleum paint has not cured for 3 days it will lift . but once it cures you can spray with lustercoat . My plan is to use auto clear to top coat the epoxy paint and seal the lustercoated parts that are coated and look good . The center section top and bottom and the side sponsons went on perfect and look great . I have striped all the paint and brushed on some 30 minute epoxy in the tank and radio box area and sprayed it with white appliance epoxy paint .

BUT DON"T WORRY GUYS I'VE LEARNED THE HARD WAY !!!!! TESTS WILL BE DONE FIRST !!!! AND AUTO 2 PART PAINT"S FROM NOW ON !!!!

I KNEW BETTER !!! BUT DID IT ANYWAY : :) :-[

I have 3 more of Jerry's WOF 's in different stages of construction and there will be only finish cure epoxy {MIKE P's} and auto paints used on them !!!!!!!!!

Ron you are where i got the idea on the appliance epoxy paint from !!! ;D
 
I didn't know if I'd told anybody but I guess that I did. I didn't want to say anything until I found out how it worked. The stuff was cheap, something like $3.49 a can at Meijer's (an area Dept. store). I found out at work when I was primering the boat that Ethyl Acetate will strip it off really fast if you goof up. The things that I get away with at work!
 
Are there any members of this board out there who could write a do's and don'ts article regarding paint? This type of thread comes up pretty regularly and an article might be worthwile.

Tim.
 
Has anyone tried adding pigment to the epoxy and then doin' Mike's paper towel thing with it?

Ron...
blowingup.gif
;D
 
I'd like to give it a try. Wade was talking about trying it on his HH.12. I'm what JD calls a "Rattle Can Junkie" and haven't tried an airbrush yet.
 
Yup, I do plan on doing that. I'll let you know how it works. Hey PJ, 1 more & you're a GOD!!!!!
 
Now ya see why I HATE PAINT!!!!!!!!

I like to see a very well done boat, but I just cant pull it off. So its clear and some stickers fer me ;)

Gene ;D
 
Gene i am starting to think that way myself !!!!

The bad part about the whole thing is I had given advice in another thread to only use automotive paints and clear coats. And urethane or polyurethane paints or Mike P's epoxy method !!!

IN TOO BIG OF A HURRY TO GET TO THE POND !!!

TopFuel's Avitar

" To be old and wise one must first be young and stupid "
 
dear Waterbug,

I've been doing this thing for a long time, there are only 3 ways to paint a nitro boat:

(1) The old way with the aircraft dopes and clears

(2) Epoxy paints with epoxy clears

(3) Aoutomotive 2 part paints or undercoat colors and

clears. Spray automotive paints don't always

work under urethane clears either so test these

first before you do the boat.

I have found that the "in the can" aircraft paints and

the appliance epoxy paints don't stand the test of time with nitro fuels.

Bill D.
 
Thanks for the heads up Bill !!! I have learned my lesson the hardway DON'T CUT CORNERS !!!!!!! to rush to the pond .

I think this boat will be past down to my wife and daughter by the end of summer ! he!he!!he!!! :p
 
WARNING !!!!!!!!!!!! WARNING!!!!!!!!!

This is for all of you guys out there that spray paint any type of paint, ALWAYS WEAR AN ACTIVATED

CHARCOAL TYPE OF FACE MASK OR REPERATOR WHEN SPAYING ANY OF THE MODERN SPRAY MEDIUMS,

ESPECIALLY EPOXY'S AND AUTOMOTIVE PAINTS, THEY CAN AND WILL CAUSE VERY SEVERE HEALTH

PROBLEMS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! ESPECIALLY AND EVEN MORE SO TO THOSE THAT ARE SMOKERS AND

EX-SMOKERS****************SO BEWARE AND BE CAREFUL WHEN USING THESE PAINTS.........

Bill D.

Wishing all a pleasureable boating season........ :)
 
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