new to inboards,please help

[m brater]

I,m new to the inboards and have a cmb 67. I'm having trouble tightening the flywheel nut, before it gets tight the motor turns over and won't allow any more tightening. Thought about putting a dowel rod into exaust to stop engine turn-over but afraid to bend con rod. Whats the trick?? thanks a bunch! Mike

 

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Mike,

it's "help" ......... :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: Just goofing!

any how, take out the glow plug, cap off the carb (paper towel or something like a rag) and now fill the motor with Transmission fluid, reinsert glow plug and turn the crank up. Now take your wrench and tighten that bad boy up. Put a little blue lock tight on the thread so it doesn't spin off.

Good luck and welcome to boating!

 

[Dale0]

Call Octura and get a flywheel wrench. Works great, I will never use anything else.

 

[Slideblues]

Hep'n out folk is what we do......... :lol:

My OS had a hole in the side of the flywheel, just went to the drill index, found one ta fit, stuck it in there and tightened er up,

Gene

 

[ClayGlover]

I cut off, then bent the tips of an old blowtorch flint striker to make a flywheel wrench. It works great, just stretch it over the holes and the handle spring holds it there.

 

[Propjockey]

Hey Rodney....won't that put a ton of stress on the crank pin, con rod and wrist pin?

 

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PJ,

In the 6 years I've done it I have yet to break one so it seems to be working for me just fine.

It's a good question though maybe Rod or JD or another avid boater could answer that question for us.

 

[Jerry Wyss]

Theres somethin' I have'nt heard in any of these replies. One thing I have learned many years ago is to heat up the "flywheel"

in the oven to about 275 to 300 degrees,,It will go on farther than room temp on will start to grab slightly as it cools and just

crank it down tight. I've never had to put any wood or plastic in the exhaust port since,,and The flywheel has never loosened

up since using this metheod.

 

[ClayGlover]

yeah that works. drawback is you gotta put the whole case back in the oven to get it back off

 

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I'm not to keen on the popsicle stick or shoving things into the port because you really risk denting, dinging or leaving a mark on the piston head which can in turn scratch up the liner.

A friend of mine showed me the damage that can be done with this method and even showed the microscopic damage viewing it from under a Jewelers magnifying glass. He gave me a theory that the life expectancy dwindles down about 20%. :blink:

He compared it to guys who put there cases in a Vise and crank it tight to pull the piston out, that warps the case and creates all sorts of problems for all the working parts. Even can make it tough to reassemble the motor later. He had a box of pistons/liners he's been given of the rear to do research. Some had visuales of guys taking channel locks to the top of the liners and yanking them out. Nasty sight that is. :lol: Guess who gave him one for his collection?.... :lol: :lol: Me

He had another box of cranks and showed me how guys have taken ball ping hammers and hammered the crank in....... :lol: :lol: :lol: Too Funny!

Any how some of you guys may or may not know Ken Reiley but he was a **** good boater and an even better modeler. He used to even write for the R/C magazines at one time.

Any how......just sharing a story for the hell of it.

 

[Jerry Wyss]

Clay Glover, A simple battery terminal puller from a Auto Parts store is what I use to remove flywheels and various other things

in this hobby,,they'er under 10 bucks and really should be in most boat model boaters box anyway. And while we're on this

subject ,,Whats wrong with putting a "Case" or complete powerhead in the oven anyway. If your changing bearings in an engine

you'll have to heat the case up any way,,the oven is a good way to do it. My best powerheads have went through a heating

process after I have installed new bearings,,,especially if they went in hard. I heat the whole Powerhead up to 300 degrees

(I have went to 350) and turn down 50 degrees every half hour until I get to warm,, then wrap in a towel for a couple hours

till cool. It relieves the stress in the engine and the parts set-in much better.

Jerry

 

[ClayGlover]

nothing wrong with heating Jerry when replacing bearings, just an extra step to remove the crank is all I meant