New Project by MikeP

[MikeP]

Tom,

To bad you can only get 80...keep trying. Mine was going about a kazillion miles an hour.

Mark,

you were right on with the cowl by the carb. intake. I ended up running without it. I cut a lot more off it tonight, thanks.

Mike

 

[shoboat]

Hey Mike,

I have a good used cowl like I run now, if you want I can send it out to you

to copy from. It has a lot of clearance for the MAC 21 motor,it might be

helpful to you Mike. I'm sure you can make one out of carbon or some other

exotic materials. Do you think the MAC 21 could pull more pitch in your

elevation Mike? Did the H-10 launch nice and easy and throttle well?

Thanks,

Mark Sholund

 

[MikeP]

Mark,

I cut my cowl way back, I still prefer the ram air of no cowl, it runs best that way. I fear sucking water without one tho. Can you post a picture of your cowl? I should be able to copy it.

I can pull more prop but I think I am close on launching, I have been running 40% next week I and going to start running 60%. Please send me another prop.

Tom,

I added a 1/2oz to each sponson tip and that was good. I do think I need to shim up the rear sponson tube, Do you know the angle of attack you have yours set to?

I love this boat! I sold a kit for you at the pond today, I think you got a winner.

Mike

 

[TomMoorehouse]

mine has 4 shims..... whatever that comes out to be???

glad to hear the weight worked.... i added some also to try out next time at the pond

 

[shoboat]

Tom and Mike,

You should try the shims under the rear boom tubes first. Adding weight

would be the last resort in my book. By changing the angle of attack with

the shims it should do exactly what the weight is doing for you. Light,fast,

and stable is the goal for 80+ MPH right Tom?

Thanks,

Mark Sholund

 

[MikeP]

From reading posts on forums, I think the AOA should be about 2.5 deg. Mine is around 4 deg. With the number of shims Tom has, his should be about the same.

Mike

 

[shoboat]

Mike,

What do you mean around four? Every boat is designed different. Don't you

have a digital level? Try 3.1" exactly,the tub design has a lot to do with the

sponson angles Mike. You will need a digital level soon if you want to setup a

boat real well,it helps a lot.

Thanks,

Mark Sholund

 

[TimD]

Guys,

Spent a few hours testing on Sunday. I deliberately had the boat trimmed very loose to see what bad habits it had like that. I noticed with 3 shims under the rear boom that it can "nose dive" very hard if it hits a wake the wrong way. I didn't see any signs of a front sponson "blow over" at all.

Speed wise the thing is hauling! I was driving around in a 90 rigger's wakes and he was only pulling away slightly. I don't think the adding weight to the tips is the answer for high speed stability. I think with the boat settled down with 4 shims under the rear boom instead of 3, the nose diving issue won't be a problem at all.

Mark - I love that H10. Mine practically jumps up hard out of the water if I nail it on the launch. I could probably pull a little more pitch without affecting the launch or throttleability. Ran out of plugs (conelocks) -I was going lean due to a loose backplate screw so I didn't test the H4. Next weekend!

Tom - the boat is a winner - release the thing already! Looks like mine might be going to the US nat's B) (shame I can't be there tho') Guess I better get it painted up!

 

[MikeP]

Sure Mike , I can't show u the pictures of the metal case tho as this one isn't in my hands anymore , i designed &builded it with someone , ( the owner now ) but i can show u from what i had the idea .

Thing is , when we are mixing epoxies , we are making small airbubbles in it . The only way to solve this ( moreless ) is to suck it vacuum during the mixing .

Now , as dental technician im used to vacuum mixing , but BUT , the things im mixing are easy to clean , epoxies aren't , so thats kinda impossible . I have been running with the idea of making something to do it tho but thats sofar an idea .

So , im still stuck with those tiny airbubbles  in it , putting the T bar in a case and sucking it vacuum has no use anymore so , instead of sucking it vacuum im putting air pressure in the case , this squeezes those airbubbles up to nothing ( almost ) , another effect is that the epoxy is pushed together === epoxy gets between your layers/carbon /kevlar /etc  == better bonding .

I've been trying it a few times sofar and with succes , the results has been pretty nice .I can't proove that the carasteristics are better of the epoxy but im convinced of it .

first gonna show u this , this was one of my first tests i did to try it , both teeth are same epoxy , same mixed , coming from the same mixed epoxy , same amount in each mold .

Left one , cured on table , right one in the case ( or casserole )

What happened , the left one blowed up ( mainly cause of the thickness , volume .

Right one is very nice .

Bart,

I am finding tiny air pockets in the molded parts using the chopped CF, they are probably getting in there when I mix the epoxy/chopped CF. Do you know if I pressure the mold while it cures if it will still help reduce air bubbles?

Mike

 

[Bart Drieghe]

hi mike ,

well so far as i have seen ,

yes it does compress those little air thingies too , but , u have to put it under pressure while the epoxy aint hard ofcourse , she still has to be fluid /runny ,

if the epoxy is too hard it can't compress them .

To show u , i'll do a test,

i'll make a little bit of epoxy with lots of airthingies and put it then under pressure , i'll take pictures of it .

That way u can see the result of it . I'll put the pics online then for u oki ?

and , when it comes to layers of carbon , that shouldn't be a problem too cause it just squeezes the epoxy , so to my point of view it should squeeze the airbubbles inside of your layers too , might try to add that too as a test

I'll do it now , i can put those pictures online in three hours then , when the epoxy is "fully" hardened .

Bart

 

[MikeP]

Here is the mold I would need to put under pressure. It is mostly inclosed, do you think the pressure would still work?

 

[Bart Drieghe]

Hi mike ,

hmm yes i think so , it'll all depend on how fluid the epoxy will be ofcourse , the sooner u can do it , the more it will help . And another thing , i think the higher u can go in pressure , the better too . At the moment im going up to 24 but im sure that if u'd go higher it will be even better .

the surface is indeed not much , but then again , u're putting the whole thing under pressure so ...

One question , this thing seems to be big , how big is it ? ( u can say things in inches , thats ok )

Bart

 

[MikeP]

About 5 inches by 15 inches. plus the clamps.

Mike

 

[Bart Drieghe]

here is the result mike ,

i made sure that i had lots of tiny bubbles inside of my mixture , haven't done the test with tissue , im a bit short on carbon at the moment but tissue shouldn't be a problem

first pics are a tiny boil and a plate with some epoxy :

View attachment 2398

 

[Bart Drieghe]

here is the little cup

View attachment 2399

 

[Bart Drieghe]

this is the cup after curing :

View attachment 2400

 

[Bart Drieghe]

cup again

View attachment 2401

 

[Bart Drieghe]

little plate

View attachment 2402

 

[Bart Drieghe]

As u can see,

the results are showing it : every tiny airbubble is gone , so , what u wanna do would /should have the same result = no air between your layers .

I have left the testpieces all the time under pressure ,just made sure it kept on the level of 24 , had to add some pressure after an hour or so .

All u got to do is make a box that is big enough for your pieces and being quick when u're working with the epoxy , the faster u can put it under pressure , the better the result will be .

Hope this helps ya a bit ,

Bart

 

[MikeP]

Thanks Bart,

Nice pictures of the process.

Going to work on a tank now, I think I could cut the bottom off of a pressure cooker like yours and extend it fit my needs.

Mike