need help with flywheel and pipe

[Finne]

Have a look at the pictures at this link.

http://www16.brinkster.com/blapingvin/bat.html

Anyone know what type of pipe this is? it's 13cm from end to end.

And will that disc work as a flywheel? It's what's left of a clutch that I removed.

...and another thing. Anyone have an idea of how I get that disc-thing off of the engine?

 

[Ron Olson]

That pipe looks like a lot of ones made. It might be a Paris. That's a flywheel for an R/C truck and it is on an SG shaft. It should just unscrew off of the crankshaft, you may have to lock the motor to get it off. The problem afterwards is finding a flex cable collet to put on it if you plan on mounting it in that boat. None are made now that I know of. Your best bet may be to buy another crankshaft that has the regular 5mm threads. Get a flywheel made for a .12-.18 sized motor.

 

[GTR]

Hi

It's just a generic small bore car pipe - Not a paris as they have a distinctive shape. Stick a popsicle stick down the inlet or in the exhaust to undue the clutch nut. Shouldn't be too tight. Ron is right about it being easier if you can get a standard threaded crank but you could work around the SG shaft.

GT

 

[MikeP]

It looks like the motor has a threaded crank. If it was used in an Associated truck the threads will be cut off a bit or short from the factory.

-MikeP

 

[Finne]

ok.

Thankyou for the answers.

But how do I get the carb of, to get to the intake?

There's a screw knot on the side that appears to be squeezing it, but I can't get a hold of it with the monkeywrench.

the original crank looks like this http://www.towerhobbies.com/products/towg0115.html

So if I can just get to it....

 

[Ron Olson]

Monkeywrench? Use a nut driver or needle-nosed pliers to loosen, not remove the nut. The carb is probably tight fitting so you'll have to twist it out.

 

[Propjockey]

Well, let's see...the pipe is a Tower ST-15 tuned pipe.

The 'thingy' holding the flywheel on is the mount for the clutch bell. It just unscrews (caution-if you booger up the smooth, round shaft you won't be able to put the clutch bell back on...if you want to at a later time)

You should have 5mm threads on the crank. Octura makes a flex collet that will fit. Can't find an Octura part #, but it is Product # 227 at Fuller's. (this is for an 1/8" flex)

http://www.drcwebservices.com/ffe/hardware.htm

To remove the carb, first you need to get a crowbar and an 8 lb. sledgehammer... ;D

Seriously though, like Ron said loosen the nut 1 or 2 turns with a nut driver (probably a 5.5mm). Then give the nut a light tap with a screwdriver handle and the carb should slide right out.

BTW...you're going to need a lot more crap on your workbench...it's not NEARLY cluttered enough! ;D

 

[Finne]

oh. great. Have to get more tools then.

well it's my girlfriends fault. she has me cleaning upp my mess all the time :

Thankyou for the help.

yes. if I want to. I am pondering doing...something, to that shaft so I can connect a flex to it.

The whole connecting to flex thing has been bugging me for a while now. it's the final missing link in my boat.

but here is an idea. Tell me if you think this might work.

I could get some brass pipe that fits on the round part of the shaft. Drill a hole through the whole thing and put a plug in. Then solder it to make it sit tight.

Then I could fit a flex inside the pipe's other end and solder it in there.

might work? no? yes? maybe on a wednesday with fullmoon, while standing inside a pentagram?

bah.

enough of my ramblings for now. :

 

[MikeP]

You can take out the glow plug fill up the hole with after run oil and put the plug back in. This will hydrolock the engine and alow you to remove the nut from the flywheel.

-MikeP

 

[MarkScott]

I used this method for a chainsaw. take out the plug, put a small amount of rope (in this case, string) and rotate the crank.. the rope / string will stop the piston from reaching TDC... Other wise, go to your LHS and buy a tool to do the job right. I have one that didn't cost much.

 

[Propjockey]

Use a pair of Channel locks (with a couple of small wood blocks to protect the flywheel) to hold the flywheel and a boxend wrench to pull the nut off. It shouldn't be THAT tight.

(I cringe when I think about the stress put on the crankpin from locking the piston in the sleeve.)

 

[ClayGlover]

your brass tube and solder idea theoretically might work, but the problem is that you must remove the shaft from the engine on a regular basis for things like shaft lubrication, engine parts replacement, and shaft replacement if necessary. it wouldn't be very practical....

you need to find a way to use a flex collet/coupler. i'd listen to propjockey's advice

 

[Finne]

hmm. yes. I can see the problem there.

oh well. I'll just have to find the money and get those parts. I'm a student so I'm running on a very low budget.

Still can't get the *cencored* flywheel of. :-[

I put a wood plug in to stop the piston. But I don't want to break the engine so I didn't dare turn it to hard.

well... it didn't move at all.

I'm just sposed to turn it counter clockwise, right? ???

 

[Propjockey]

Use channel locks...BIG ones! (to hold the flywheel)

10-4 on the counterclockwise...'righty, tighty...lefty, loosey'

 

[Finne]

ok. let's see if I get this right with my crappy english.

I put the plug in the cylinder (?) and grab a strong hold of the flywheel with channel locks. And then I just twist till it loosens?

Is there a difference between gripping on the flywheel itself and gripping the 6-sided part of the shaft?

sortof double/tripple checking here.

 

[Propjockey]

Whoa, Partner! Back up.

If you use the channel locks, you don't need to lock the piston in the cylinder.

Hold the flywheel with the channel locks, put a wrench on the six sided part of the shaft and turn it counter clockwise.

Hang on, I'm drawing a pic.

 

[Finne]

eeeh. oki.

you see the reason why i needed to doublecheck? he he. ;D

Guess I'll go find some tools in the morning.

getting late here in sweden.

well. to late for tinkering with engines anyway.

 

[Propjockey]

Ok..still with me?

Should look like this.....

 

[Propjockey]

And you should be left with 5mm threads...

 

[Finne]

Thankyou for all the help.

I haven't managed to get my hands on the right tools yet, but I expect it will come off eventually now that I know how to do