Mounting a .82 K&B on a 360 HTB

[anthony420]

Your system is nice and should work fine. I would make sure the hull is reinforced a little, It probably already is. That would be a place were the whole assembly will flex.

 

[Tim_Duggan]

Very nice power trim set-up.

I assume you are going to use a spring between the two plates to stop the plate moving away from the jackscrew?

Tim.

 

[tnrcboatracer]

The prop nuts are 10-32 size. Bill Zuber has the prop nuts, or I can send a few if you send me your address. The nuts Bill sells are aerospace grade with metal locking feature. Bill has a listing in the Manufacture's For Sale section.

 

[topfuel443]

Fabrice, the hull needs no reinforcements, HTB is about as solid as a boat gets. Also, like Tim said, you will want to make sure the engine can not just flip up on the back away from the boat. Springs or a captured end on the pusher. You need some way to make the engine stay against the boat. I know that when it is running in smooth water, the thrust of the prop will keep in on the transoms, but rarely do you run in such conditions.

Also, like Jon said I also have a bunch of the prop nuts if you need any. It may be easier for me to send them to you than Jon. Let me know.

~James

 

[gratte-tout]

Hi guys,

Thanks for your answers. Of course a spring will be put between the two plates, even if the engine could not go back for many degrees (there's a mecanical stopper), it would be better if it doesn't move on each gazes cutoffs. I have not put it yet just because I don't have any one, I'm going to try to find one in the right dimensions (in an old printer I think).

Thank you for the prop nut size. James, let me know the price for it please. Your website doesn't work for me.

I can also buy a special tap to do as much as I need. But guys, your special sizes really sucks, I had to buy special wrenches to unmount the engine, nothing is compatible, grrrr. Do you think about thinking on a normal use in metric sizes?? Even more logical than counting with parts of fingers, and even even more logical to talk with entire sizes, not fractionnal ones..

James is right, the hull has got reinforced transom, I think there's is a 10-15mm thick plywood part glued on it.

For the nitro fuel %, I've got many cans of it, a french manufacturer gave me many, I have to use it, it work fine on my .61 cat, I will check on the breackin time if it's enought, fuel is very expensive over there, you have to pay for more than 25€ to buy 2 little liters of a 30% fuel.. And even if the $ still cheap, buying fuel over seas cost a lot, the postage is more expensive than the fuel itself..

Maybe it's possible to add some pure nitro to high the %, I could do this if the engine doens't run fine.

Well, I think the hull will see the water fast, I wonder fire the ponds next week, I'm not sure to do a paint job now.. will probably try it white.

 

[topfuel443]

Fabrice, I closed my business for now, just send me your address again in a PM, and I will send you a bunch of the prop nuts for free (I have hundreds).

Yes, the imperial system is dumb.

~Jams

 

[Tim_Duggan]

Fabrice,

I work in the office equipment industry (photocopiers, printers, fax machines etc) and have some access to lots of different sized springs. If you can't find the spring you want - let me know the details and I can try and find something here for you.

Tim.

P.S. +1 vote for Metric. Imperial is over-complicated!

 

[gratte-tout]

Thanks Tim,

I haven't found one yet, I was thinking about the little springs used on few .21 engine like R&B ones, they have to little "ears" on the side of the crankcase to hold one little spring one each side, but they are too long.

I looking for 2 springs (traction ones), 7-8mm long (total lenght, so 5mm of active part I think).

I'm going to see if I found somethink fitting my plates, if I don't find anything I will contact you, quite funny to ask somebody so far away to have to springs :lol:

Yesterday I checked the GC, it's 2.5cm backward the perfect position, a little mass glued under the neck of the cowl is enought (I tested with a part of steel, not a heavy one..)

I've re-threaded the screw moving the engine plate, now it's very free and the sail servo could move it perfectly.

I'm out of Sullivan threaded shafts (those you screw into the push rods), so I wasn't able to finish the throttle linkage. A little stop at my dealer will be necessary..

Boat should be finished soon..

Tim : you are not using imperial system in Austalia?

 

[Tim_Duggan]

Springs 7-8mm long are rather unusual in the equipment I work with. I will keep an eye open for them though and will let you know if I locate some.

Yes, we are predominantly metric in Australia. I was raised and educated with the metric system, but there are still remnants of imperial system still used.

Things manufactured in the USA find their way here too, and as you know - use imperial threads. Not a big deal really, it just means more tools are required.

 

[gratte-tout]

Hi guys,

Some news here.

Everything is finished now, I finish to set the radio box with the sail servo, I put the tank with little pieces of wood to put it backward from the steering linkage.

Radio box with its power cutoff

Fuel tank

And finally..

No paint now, I will try to set it before painting, I just have to add a failsafe and a servo wire extention to finish it, the radio box is gluying while posting, first rus will be soon.

 

[Ron]

Can't wait for video!!!!

 

[gratte-tout]

Hi,

First runs done!

Not really good : I can't do more than 15 meters until the engine stops. I tried many settings on the needle valve, but nothing better.. The engine has not constant rpm.

Could you help me for settings?

Perhaps the 16% fuel I used is reaaly not fitting thos engine. May try a 30% one, could it be better?

I don't understand why I unscrew the needle valve until it was completly unsrewed (!) and the engine wasn't too rich, seemes to be lean in fact..

Thanks for your help.

(Engine is completly new)

 

[Richie R]

Did you clean out the needle assembly ? Since it is new might have some dirt in there. Did you check your fuel tank and lines for leaks ? Or is it that muffler hanging off the back.

Richie R

 

[gratte-tout]

Yes, I checked all of this.

I unmount then engine yesterday and cleaned it, Perhaps it will be better, but if someone has any idea on it..

Has anybody an idea about the low speed valve settings, maybe the first owner touched it, even if the engine was new, what are the basical settings for it?

 

[kesso2118]

Yes, I checked all of this.
I unmount then engine yesterday and cleaned it, Perhaps it will be better, but if someone has any idea on it..

Has anybody an idea about the low speed valve settings, maybe the first owner touched it, even if the engine was new, what are the basical settings for it?

Here is a link to the K&B Owners Guide on the Mecoa site:

http://www.mecoa.com/kb/67/5375.htm

It provides some information on the initial settings.

Good luck,

James

 

[gratte-tout]

I checked it before, but it's recommanded to use a 25% fuel, I have a 30% one for my .21, it may be better with it.

Maybe getting out the head shim with a low nitro fuel is a good idea too, will also try if I want to use a 16% fuel.

On the mecoa website, nothing is given on the low speed valve, just that "it's factory set, don't touch it!" without giving any informations to retrieve the original settings, has anybody an idea to check (numbers of turns) if I have a good setting?

 

[Richie R]

When you get the motor started how does it idle ? Is it racey sounding or is it real grugley sounding. It should idle pretty smooth. Can you show a pic of the carb ? If it is racey sounding you should richen it up 1/4 of a turn to start with then go from there.

Hope this is some help, good luck

Richie R