Several pipe manufacturers start with an aluminum tube which is correct for the max. diameter of the pipe. This is slipped over a steel mandrel that has the pipe shape and both are clamped in a spin lathe chuck. The operator then spins the metal down and checks the dimensions with prepared instruments. When everything is correct he will cut off the remaining tailing and cut the cone loose from the mandrel. Sliding the lathe tailstock outward allows removal of the cone.
Steel pipes are the easiest to make, common tools cut the shapes, roll to finish and weld, like a previous post.
Irwin, Equalizer, Silver Bullet, Cooper and other outboard pipes are stamped from soft aluminum sheet, trimmed, carefully aligned with the inlet and stinger and Heliarc welded. These designs utilize heavy steel dies in hydraulic presses to do the forming. The Garcia is the only outboard pipe that I have seen that is not stamped. Most car pipes are spun, a few are punch formed.
All tuned pipes have diffrent characteristics which affect the engine performance, there is not a "one pipe fits all". Cone lengths, mid sections, stinger I.D.and length, and pipe length all have influence on overall performance, with stinger I.D. the most critical in my opinion. Many seasoned racers have a basket full of pipes,
so if you wish to experiment, ask your pals before you buy.
Johnboy in Huntsville,
the inventor of the outboard tuned pipe
patent # 4,531,364 and Des. 278,326