Looking To Build A Saw FE

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Hi Bob I second last comments .If you had a bad cell in your pack I would suggest to charge it via balancing mode just to be sure everything is ok.As I stated before take it easy on props...Fe is another world compared to combustion motors.Jim,is right.... swap from a 1450 to a 2047 isn't a big deal for your set up but you will send amps to the roof and shafts to the botton.....the 2047 props I'm using were reduced to 44/45mm ..don't go bigger! Unfortunetely you have learned the hard way...be very gentle with the trigger next time.Your datalogging looks good with this set up.......try to get a 1450 reduced to 46mm with 3,5 cup to start and you will be pleased with performance.3/16 flexcables are enough for your combo...1/4 are better suited for 56 motors. WELCOME TO THE BIG CHALLENGE! Cheers Gill
 
As Gil said, don't go with the 1/4" way too much drag at those RPM's.

This is a lot more RPM than you been use too.
 
Some good advise here on props. Diameter is a key. 45mm is big in this world. Start small and go a little at a time. FE motors will pull things that will kill them. No warning track here either. You all of a sudden just go over a cliff (smoke). I start out with 2 laps and come in and check temps and voltage on all cells. Kind of a pain re-taping but until you get settled in confident on your setup it is good practice. You need a little infrared temp guage and a cell checker which are inexpensive. Check motor, esc and batteries for temp then voltage on all cells. After a while you will get familiar. For a SAW setup 2 laps becomes two passes. The Data logger is a good tool but hard to use right after a run, and only gives total voltage. I have learned to watch balance, cells and IR constantly. You will then appreciate better batteries and find some cheap ones are very good but it is a crap shoot. The quality wiring on a Hyperion,Thunder Power or Dinogy shows up. A good charger is also worth the investment if your going to stay in FE. Mic
 
Mic, Gil and Jim, thanks for the help. I will work on my props tonight.

Mic, where do you buy your batteries?
 
Bob, Jim beat me to it. If the dimensions work for the boat I have to fit them in I will buy Dinogy's. I have tried many of the cheaper brands and some perform well while others have crapped out. I have Hyperions and Thunderpowers plus Grimracers besided Turnigys, nano's, Gens Ace, Zippys and even Banana's. Basically there are not many manufacturers making lipo cells. What happens from there are some grades better and how they are assembled. Better soldering quality on tabs and balance plugs. Some just put cells in a pack and others test and weed out marginal cells. The cheapies can be good and surely the price gets people into FE so not all bad. I have had some fail that weren't worth sending back and hoping they might give service. Thunderpower and Hyperion are not cheap. Grimracers are good but don't have a lot of configurations to choose. Mark with his Dinogy's offer a fair price and some personal service. Hope we don't burn him out. In the order of importance I think the motor is where you need to buy quality. Next is batteries in my opinion. FE has so much power that even the inexpensive stuff give great performance. But like props and setup there is a difference to be had. Mic
 
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I finally ran my JAE 45 converted to FE. It ran pretty well except it blew over twice. I worked hard to get the GC toward the rear, but now it seems light in front. The second blow over ripped the boom tube out of the right sponson. I had removed the turn fin, so this happened even without a fin. There are some big forces on these boats! I fixed the sponson and I am going to try putting 1 or 2 degrees angle on the strut to get some lift back there.

I tried a 1450 Zipp Kits prop with 45.7 mm dia and 3.6" pitch. The torque wrapped the blades right around the hub. I had hardened this prop, so that was a real surprise. The Zipp props come from China I think. I wonder if they are not BeCu???

In total I ran 3 times. I checked the ESC, motor, and battery temps after each run and nothing was ever hotter than 90 degrees F. The max current in the data log was about 175 amps. Max power was 4200 watts, and the max RPM was 46,000. This all seems good. The props I ran were as follows:

1718 with 42.5 mm dia, 3.7" COB pitch and 5.3" cup.

2047 cut to 44.2 mm dia, 3.6" COB pitch and 3.5" cup.

X-445 at 45.0 mm dai, 2.5" COB pitch and 2.5: cup.

Since the ESC can handle up to 300 amps continious and things are not very hot, it seems like a bigger prop would be the next step.

By the way, I took Mic's advice and ordered a Dinogy battery. It was on my doorstep the next day. That is some kind of service.
 
Bob seems that you are in the right direction with your tests.I've been trying the A-spec bat 65-130C and liked them .Take care with amps as with a 47mm prop amps can go easily to 400amps .The zipp prop only works with tiny boats not for saw! Glad with your progress! Unfortunetely on my last run the Ice 240 had two caps bulged so sent it for repairs and will add a cap bank that helps a lot with saw boats.Gill
 
Tim (who started this thread) now has a JAE 21 FE kit that I sold to him. What do you guys recommend he put it that for motor, ESC, etc. I think he wants to heat race with it.
 
As Tim stated he wanted a fast boat for fun I would suggest a Leopard 3674 high kv to run on 4S with a SF 200A.This combo fits good in a Jae Fe.Gill
 
+1 on this for sure !!

leo 3674 - 3000kv-3250 kv on 200a 4s and y545 or y547 (on the limit)

leo 4092 - 1730kv-2000kv on 240a 6s and h4 or y547

nutto setups

comparing the neu 1527 1d(2300kv) and the leo 4092 (2000kv) on 6s on 240a esc the results are similar on the water with the same battery

these are heat setups and this is a saw thread ... lol

jason
 
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The long 40mm motors are a squeeze in the JAE hulls. A better 4S choice is the Castle 1415/2400Kv motor - much better quality than the Leopard and available for under $100 on eBay. It is a Y wind motor as well, the 36 Leos are D winds.

.
 
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Leopard are good motors but I agree 100% with the superiorty of quality and better lasting of Neu's.Even a 1515 could be a good choice for a Jae Fe.Gill
 
http://www.offshoree...us-X524&cat=176 Motor in link can be externally wired either way. The Delta is generally a higher rpm wind and will rev more on top. The "Y" gives more torque mid range. I don't see a lot of difference other than prop selection. Deltas are accused of being amp hogs but that may be due to just more load. (similar to higher gears) Mic
 
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Well what can I say? I tried one of the two SS props that Jim sent, and things did not go well. The smaller prop made a zillion RPM and broke in two. The stuffing tube twisted right out of the epoxy glass seal in the boat's bottom, and the ESC seems to be burned out. (I am not really sure about the ESC, but It won't run the motor and when I try to read the data log there is no handshake between my PC and the ESC).

I am thinking this FE is not at all simple! In fact, I have a nice CMB 45 VAC that I am taking of the shelf and putting in this boat. It was fun trying FE, but life is too short to learn all this the hard way At first glance FE looks like it would be easier, but looks can be decieving. Back to nitro for me!

Watch for my post on the for sale page, as I will be selling the following:

Neu 1527 1D (competition wind), 2300 kv, 8mm shaft

Water jacket

MBP 8mm collet x 3/16"

Two (2) Turnagy Nano-tech Batteries, 6s, 65C

Two (2) Dinogy Batteries, 6s, 65 C

Jim, I wll contact you by PM about getting the prop back to you and paying you for the one I broke.
 
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