Klass koat primer?

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Danny King

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 26, 2012
Messages
2,280
Is it necessary to use primer with klass coat. Not as concerned with finish as I am with it sticking.
 
Ok thank you. Just wondering if it could be a bonding issue. Weight is more important than finish. But peeling is not acceptable.
 
I use KK, and the results have always been great... if, you read the data he sends with every order, the actual flash times are what determine the bond.... and the course you must take to aquire... recalling maybe, that an early ( within a short time) application of base to primer will gain chemical and mechanical, bonding, and waiting over 48 hours after prime, you must sand/scuff to achieve mechanical only........ I'm a novice painter, but, when i get set up to paint, i plan 2 days, and take the operation to final, to give me the best results i can get, either chemical....or mechanical or both.... clean, and dust free are key.... better painters than me around... but KK even makes me look good.... paint 'em up.... Mike
 
Good painting info here and I have a question about wiping before shooting . For example on a wood /epoxy sealed deal , shooting with Imron I just wipe the scuffed sealed boat with the Imron reducer with a damp cloth and let dry a little while . If it's cool I'll warm it up with a heat gun , then spray a tack coat and subsequent final coat . Seems to work as long as I don't prime first otherwise sometimes top coat can peel over time ..hate that .

So do you guys use Pre Kleano or oil remover (have seen both ) of some kind ?
 
Kleenz works very well as the last thing to do before you tack the boat down to paint it.....NAPA carries it i believe. We use it for our small fleet of spray trucks which are painted with Imron, and ive used it on a few of my boats also.
 
If, for reasons, i gotta do a long term paint foray, i do, use the reducer after scuffing, etc... In all seriousness, any foreign substance right down to smoke from cigarettes ( yeah, im caught), will take to the surface and mess the base.... Clean is the most major deal, IMO, and I have a drop down booth in my shop ceiling with a shroud and exhaust fan to get the floating particles and overspray out.... there are tricks from wetting the floor?... to whatever... ( ideas welcome).... KK is so easy, from mixing to whatever, a mike larson can do it...... even with a 17 dollar gun from HF..... Its great paint, nitro proof, and flows/covers well...... IDK, advancing from the rattle can outside, ( little gnat trails, lol, dust, and whatnot).... tellin ya.... follow the directions and you cant mess it up!.... Mike
 
Bullitt.JPGWet down floor before paint app. is good idea... clean enviroment is a must!! KK only wants to be cleaned with kk reducer or a high grade lacquer thinner...(I found out the hard way on this one...trust me...the KK rep asked what i washed with and when I said du pont enamel reducer,he scolded me and said ONLY lacquer thinner or KK reducer...) and yes as long as epoxy resin sealing coats are good,IE:MAS or WEST... primer probably not necessary.. but a very light first coat and a medium second coat and then lay it on on last coat!! I find if I stand boat straight up,bow in the air, I get less dust. In the auto body field we hang a chain over frame,springs or axle to ground works well for static but..... none of the above on a model boat...LOL.. light tack cloth pulled apart and used very lightly is also recomended. KK likes 1-1-1 mix (and add reduce after induction..) at about 35-40lbs with a siphon feed gun... not sure about hvlp guns as i am stuck on the old school type guns... KK will make you a great painter when following the directions...LOL.. first time I didnt and learned the hard way. message if any questions.. Good luck,and happy painting!!! P.S. a nice smooth finish will not only look good but run better on the water!!
 
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