JAE21G2 build question.

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Joe Steele

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 11, 2010
Messages
73
I'm ready to start painting my newly built JAE21 but need to know if I should remove the side overhangs on the sponsons? The Building Instruction aren't clear about it. Let me know what works to go fast.
 
Joe, I removed the side overhang on my sponsons with no ill effect. It is a matter of your preference.

Jim
 
Mine has no side overhangs too. According to the designers, the side overhangs were put their so that low powered engines would get the boat on plane easily. They are not needed otherwise.
 
i would leave them.. anything to make them get up on plain easier is good. might help pulling more prop sometime
 
My thoughts also Mark.. If you leave them on you'll be able to launch just about any prop that is even close..
 
I left the front overhangs on, but sanded the rear part flush. I think the the most important part here are very sharp, square edges. Mine launches like a dream.
 
i removed the side overhangs on my jae 21g2, launches as easily as a tunnel. in fact, if thrown too hard it will 'wheelie'......
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Thanks for all your input. I am going to remove them. We'll see if it works. I'm using Mark Leyde's Go Pro .21 7 port engine and all Zipp hardware. I've attached pictures of the rigger and the jig I made to keep it straight. Notice the 2mm cut I made to center and hold the bottom piece while gluing the sides to the bottom. The jig is made of MDF with one side held with screws in case the rigger wouldn't slide out. Next step is to cover it with a thin coat of West epoxy and paint it with Klass Kote primer and paint.

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Build it to the designers specs. After you gain experience running the boat you can make changes. If you change it before hand you will never really know how it could have run.
 
Thanks for all your input. I am going to remove them. We'll see if it works. I'm using Mark Leyde's Go Pro .21 7 port engine and all Zipp hardware. I've attached pictures of the rigger and the jig I made to keep it straight. Notice the 2mm cut I made to center and hold the bottom piece while gluing the sides to the bottom. The jig is made of MDF with one side held with screws in case the rigger wouldn't slide out. Next step is to cover it with a thin coat of West epoxy and paint it with Klass Kote primer and paint.
Your boat will run just fine without overhangs......Rod Geraghty
 
Thanks for the suggestions. I removed the side overhangs and here's pictures of my progress. It's finished with a simple Klass Kote paint job with only the motor and throttle servo to be installed. I pickup the motor from Mark Leyde tomorrow.

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I'm sure you will enjoy it a lot...nice job!The Go will surprise you!Good boating and let we know your progress.

Gill
 
Here it is with the new Go motor installed. Just a few small details and it's ready for the water.

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Joe,

It turned out very nice.

You may want to cut that header back a little bit, it looks very long.

From the plug to the pressure fitting should be around 3" to start

with that pipe. Have Fun Testing,

Mark Sholund
 
Thanks for the info Mark. Right now it is 4 inches. I'll make the change.
If your header is different that what others use, suggested measurements could be off. The only way to tell for sure is to take a measurement along the center line of the pipe around the header and to the plug. Starting at 8" is a good start.
 

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