I screwed up! How Do I Fix It?

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Is there a certain color tube to use. I know with Permatex and Loc-tite there are many choices.

Thanks.......
 
No colors here.If it has "anti-seize" written on the tube it will all virtually be the same.

Anti-seize compounds consist of a very low percentage[10-15%] of molybdenum disulfide [MoS2] mixed with some sort of carrier,like lithium grease.MoS2 is a solid that is mined right out of the ground just like coal.It has a substainally lower coefficient of friction than graphite and handles extreme pressures very well.

This is from a Dow-Corning Specialty Lubricant Seminar I attended in the '70s.

A small tube of anti-seize from any auto parts store will last you forever.

Since MoS2 is a solid more is definitely not better.

It is meant to be applied very sparingly.
 
Question about the anti-sieze on threads. Do you not need to constantly check the head bolts for torque? Heating -cooling cycles, won`t the bolts try to walk right out?
 
Kevin_R_Clark said:
Question about the anti-sieze on threads. Do you not need to constantly check the head bolts for torque? Heating -cooling cycles, won`t the bolts try to walk right out?
Nope. If that were true every big block Chevy motor I built would have fallen apart while I drove it...... :p
 
Antiseize, or sometimes Neverseize on containers, Mostly silverlry color.

and once head bolts are torqued, Shouldnt have to retorque.

antiseize just keeps them from sticking to the alumn when hot/cold, and rust.

I dab a very very very small bit on my glow plug threads as well, carefull will conduct spark.
 
Don Ferrette said:
Do you not need to constantly check the head bolts for torque? Heating -cooling cycles, won`t the bolts try to walk right out?
Nope!

Torque once and forget it. ;)
 
Little suggestion: run a bottoming tap into the holes and give each a quick blast of air before you begin re-assembly. This will clean out the threads and allow easier and more accurate retorquing of the bolts once you begin the rebuild. You can also run the bolts through a die to clean them completely. If you do not have a die, give them a quick wire brushing.
 
Russell, There is actually a Very Precision easy out to take out bolts as small as 4/40. One end is a drill bit. The other is a easy out. If interested I`ll connect you to the mfg that you can buy from. I bought one last week to save a PICCO 80 case. The bolt was 6/32. The tool worked Perfectly.......Joe W
 
Thanks for the info Joe. I was able to get it out with a small drill and an EZ-out (twice) :rolleyes: . I beleive letting it soak overnight in WD-40 and getting things loose really helped.
 
Thanks for all the tips everyone. Replaced the head bolts and applied anti-sieze. Ran the other day and when finished sprayed WD-40 through the water outlet as Don suggested. Hope to never have this problem again. :blink:
 
Russell Bear said:
Thanks for all the tips everyone.  Replaced the head bolts and applied anti-sieze.  Ran the other day and when finished sprayed WD-40 through the water outlet as Don suggested.    Hope to never have this problem again. :blink:
Very good grasshopper, the pond gods shall smile upon you............. :D

(read with oriental accent in mind....... :p )
 
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Why does the image of someone picking up a hot tuned pipe with thier forearms spring to mind? Talk about sidetracked - what was this thread about again?

Tim.
 
TimD said:
Why does the image of someone picking up a hot tuned pipe with thier forearms spring to mind? Talk about sidetracked - what was this thread about again?Tim.
:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
 
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Russ,

It might be a good idea to run a tap down all the holes to make sure they're clean. Find a product called "tap magic" and use a lot of it to lube the tap. Small alum threads get screwed-up easy.......Good luck!!

Bob the Fool :blink:
 
I ran a 6/32 tap down all the holes and sprayed them out with WD-40. I am going to do what Don mentioned with spraying the water jacket out with WD-40 after a day of running. I wasn't doing this, (me stupid :blink: )
 
Russell,

If you are going to run a tap down the holes - use a "finishing Tap".

Tim.
 
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