Hull Drain Hole Location for HTB290

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Jerry Wyss

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 3, 2004
Messages
3,139
anybody know the prefered location in the instruction pages,, can't seem to find mine

Thanks, dub
 
I drill mine in the bottom of the tips and then while racing I tape them off to trap air just in case!

Mark
 
I drill mine in the bottom of the tips and then while racing I tape them off to trap air just in case!Mark
Thanks Mark, "forgetting to tape" is the part that bothers me,, my Lynx drain holes are up front too. I like to put

"it" or "them" in the rear and use those cheap little ear plugs but I don't know the construction method used back

there.

jerry
 
I drill mine in the bottom of the tips and then while racing I tape them off to trap air just in case!Mark


Mark,is the position of the drain holes you speak of per the instructions?or is this somthing you do on your personal hulls?

Alden
 
now calm down first Alden B)

It's gettin' to be a hobby hell over there
 
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I drill mine in the bottom of the tips and then while racing I tape them off to trap air just in case!Mark


Mark,is the position of the drain holes you speak of per the instructions?or is this somthing you do on your personal hulls?

Alden
I don't recall this in the instructions and I dont put any drain holes in any of my HTB's. Mark builds these boats very tight and as long as you tape the access hole @ the transom good you shouldn't have any water get in the hull and lord knows that my boats spend enough time upside down :huh: :huh: this is something I need to work on :p
 
now calm down first Alden B) It's gettin' to be a hobby hell over there


Lol.lol. Im always calm dubs..

Geez looks like you got alot goin on in there.lol. I get enough grief housing 5 boats. Couldnt imagine if the wife came home to that hobby tornado..lol..

By the way,bout to try out this gadjet here in the next couple days.didnt ever find out about that aluminum pipe mount you made but i came up with somthin so she should be safe.

Scott, the reason i asked is cause if mark is the only one that uses this method,then i think i ended up with one of his old personal hulls as mine is drilled in a manner of which mark speaks of.got the hull off ebay.

Alden
 
I don't recall this in the instructions and I dont put any drain holes in any of my HTB's. Mark builds these boats very tight and as long as you tape the access hole @ the transom good you shouldn't have any water get in the hull and lord knows that my boats spend enough time upside down :huh: :huh: this is something I need to work on :p
I just checked my instruction sheet and there was no mention of drain holes that I could find.

I wish mine was like yours Scott - it leaks like a sieve. I've tried the bathtub trick to find the leak with no success. I've tried putting a layer of CA on the joins - no luck. So I resorted to a drain hole in the rear of each sponson and carefully ran an M4 tap into the gelcoat / glass. I use SS m4 screws with an O ring on them to form a seal. I take the screws out after each run drain it , then re-install being very careful not to cross thread or overtighten them as they aren't going into anything strong enough to really hold a good thread.
 
My glass tunnels have a small drain hole drilled at the tips of each sponson. In between rounds I stand them up so they can drain. I don't tape them, that part of the sponson ride out of the water. Also fuel won't leak,or flood the motor with the boat standing on it's nose, if you're fuel pick ups face the stern of the boat...Like all my tunnels do.
 
For Alden and whoever else, built a TT O/B thats a little more condusive to 30% nitro. Everything went so well that I'm

even stunned :eek: . Got some detailed info from TimD on the boat/motor set-up an balance that was right on. Engine has

some serious force on 30%, that was a pleasant surprise. I'd drive this boat any day over the lynx I have, It's very good.

Here ya go Alden
 
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JW,

I hope you have a serious servo for steering in her - I killed 3 standard sized metal gear servo's with that set-up before I switched to Futaba 1/4 scale. I see too that you have the aluminium steering brackets on there too. :eek:

TD
 
Surprise! Its interesting you mentioned the steering,, the only flaw in the boats running today was the steering.

My pull pull system with the Gold-n-Rod cables seem to have an adverse effect, the one that pulls is fine but the

one on the other side goes a little slack. I have this same set-up on all my tunnels but this is the only one thats acting up.

I have the Octura mount on there with my special teflon liner around the hinge pin,, I thought it was just that the teflon

liner was still stiff, which it is.

I didn't have one blow over on either boat today and thats what usually bends over those arms. The hard forces in the

cornering hasn't bent them yet but I know they will.
 
The steering was the weak area in my HTB / TT for a long time. I had a lot of issues with stuff that previously worked fine in other boats. Broke lots of parts before I woke up to myself and wen't for serious overkill.

I have an idea in my head for the TT steering arm - I just need to draw it up and get it done. It should make the steering much more robust, linear, and less difficult to accomodate trim adjustments.
 
huh,, well that would cetainly ruin the joy of driving this boat, I know I was correcting the direction of this thing today

quite a bit.
 
huh,, well that would cetainly ruin the joy of driving this boat, I know I was correcting the direction of this thing todayquite a bit.

Looks awsome jerry, love the sound of tt talk in the evening.lol...i seen that boat sittin on that o.s box, in your hobby hell pic. Jyd pipe looks nice hangin on her.gotta love the sound of 30% and still layin it down.

Tim the steering idea sounds great,what you thinkin? Somthin to lock them both together? Somthin like on the o.s/ bushwacker arms, one piece.

Alden
 
Tim the steering idea sounds great,what you thinkin? Somthin to lock them both together? Somthin like on the o.s/ bushwacker arms, one piece.

Alden
I have something in mind

  • that would directly replace 1 TT part,
    that make the TT arms redundant,
    that would allow trim adjustment without requiring linkage adjustments,
    that would be made out of billet aluminium.


Would there be a market for such a thing?
 
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It replaces that part that captures the top of the hinge pin? It would do the job alright, I had been thinking about

that same area, much like "tiller arm" that fastens to the pin just below that part your talking about.

With the Octura mount like I use you would have room for a double arm tiller, just have to secure it well.

The market is,, well the TT market, not all that big but it's a great idea.
 
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It replaces that part that captures the top of the hinge pin? It would do the job alright, I had been thinking aboutthat same area, much like "tiller arm" that fastens to the pin just below that part your talking about.

With the Octura mount like I use you would have room for a double arm tiller, just have to secure it well.

The market is,, well the TT market, not all that big but it's a great idea.
Hi Jerry,

I've also been thinking along the same lines regarding the TT steering arms. I felt they are too thin and bend too easily. Also the line between the two mounting points for the cable ball-links, should run directly over the top of the pivot pin.

Anyway, here's a few photos of my first attempt at a bracket that eliminates the standard arms and also results in no adjustment to the cable length being necessary when adjusting the height or angle of the engine.

 

I also attach a simple drawing I made of a one-piece replacement for the top ‘bracket’ that fits over the top of the pivot pin, and to which a flat aluminum plate of personal choice could be attached. I’m going to ask a friend who runs a small precision engineering shop, to make me a few.

 

Seems that Tim ‘s mind and mine have been thinking of the same idea.

 

By the way, I’m waiting for a break in the weather to go and run the TT in. It hasn’t been started yet!

Cheers,

Wennie.
 
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