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HEY JERRY : YOU ASKED IF IT MAKES A DIFFERANCE IF THE MOTOR IS UPRIGHT OR LAYING DOWN ??? SHURE DOES . GO TO PAGE ONE AND REREAD THE POST I SENT TO YOU ABOUT ROD SPACING ON AN OUTBOARD . LOL GOD BLESS :blink: :blink: :blink:
 
james irwin said:
HEY JERRY :      YOU ASKED IF IT MAKES A DIFFERANCE IF THE MOTOR IS UPRIGHT OR LAYING DOWN ???   SHURE DOES .  GO TO PAGE ONE AND REREAD  THE POST I SENT TO YOU ABOUT ROD SPACING ON AN OUTBOARD .     LOL    GOD BLESS  :blink:   :blink:   :blink:
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Well, I certainly didn't find what you are talking about ,," go to page one",

or any other page. I saw on this page about making the spacing ".010 to .013

I have .022,,,what kind of "spacer" does anyone make to bring it down to .013?

I don't know of anybody,,Do You?

I asked if .022 was excessive,,,seems like it to me.

The PTO shaft has a "PIN" on the lower unit side of the two bearings,,,the only

thing I could do is take .010 off the side of that "PIN" which allows the PTO

shaft and plate to move .010 closer to the crank,,which will close the spacing

to .012 rod clearance. (I would also have to make a .010 shim washer that

would have to go on the engine side of the PTO bearings to hold it all in place)

Is This Reasonable?? Is .022 Excessive??

I'll Wait,,,,Jerry

Also: I would have to shave .010 off of the brass spacer that sets the Lower Unit

Gear,,as .010 extra lash would destroy the gears.

OR, How would a .010 steel spacer between the rod and PTO plate hold up??
 
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JERRY : NO END PLAY IN THE PTO . SHIM THE UPPER EN OF THE ROD ON THE WRIST PIN , TO HOLD THE ROD WEIGHT OFF THE PTO . IF THE TWO TOUCH , IT CREATS RICTION AND FRICTION MEANS LOSS OF RPM ./ HP

IT TAKES A LITTLE WHILE TO SET THIS RIGHT . BUT IT IS WELL WORTH IT . I RAN AN OLD ROSSI AT CELINA TWO YRS AGO THATS THE ONLY THING IT HAD DONE TO IT , THE MOTOR HAD NOT RUN IN 8 YRS , THEY COULD NOT BELIEVE THE RPM ON THAT OLD ENGINE ( OUTBOARD )

O . BYE THE WAY , YOU WILL NEED TO MAKE YOUR OWN WRIST PIN SHIMS ? I DO NOT KNOW IF THERE SRE ANY OUT THERE, MAKE THEM OUT OF THIN ALUM TUBING , USE A CUT OFF TOOL ON A LATHE , THEN YOU CAN MAKE THEM ANY THICKNESS YOU NEED ,. GOD BLESS :rolleyes:
 
Thanks Jim, Gawd!! I would have never thought of that! And I thought I was smart,

I'll get my jewler friend on it, He's good at that Fine stuff.

Thank you
 
To James Irwin, About Outboard pipes; I notice that the "first part" of the "U" bend

in some pipes has a "ever Increasing" diameter going toward the center section

(like Your old "J" pipe) and some have a constant diameter, (like your new quiet

unit). Is there an advantage to one, over the other??

Hope everythings OK with you.

jerry
 
JERRY: YES IT DOES MAKE A DIFFERANCE ? THE ENGINE WILL RESPOND BETTER TO THE CONSTANT DIA HEADER . AS IN THE NEW Q PIPES . ALSO THEY ARE REAL QUIET , WE CANNOT FIND THAT THE OLD STL ( NOISEY ) PIPES ARE ANY WHERE EQUAL TO THE NEW Q PIPES . THE BIG THING WE FIND , IS THE PEOPLE WILL NOT USW THEM AS SHORT AS THEY MUST BE ??

BEING A MFG WE WILL SEND ALL PIPES OUT LONGER THAN THEY NEED BE , WE DO NOT KNOW WHERE THEY WILL BE USED , ELEVATION . SEALEVEL . ECT / O YES I MUST TELL YOU . JIMMY EDDELMAN OF S.C. IS THE NEW OWNER OF IRWIN,S MUFFLER ALSO THE ELECTRONICS DIV . ALSO / GOD BLESS
 
Thanks Mr Irwin, I already have one of your Quiet pipes,,or Eddelmans Pipe. I

bought it from Al's Hobby in Elmhurst I think it was, a while back; but did'nt run

it very long cause I could'nt hear my engine very well. I guess I'll put it back on

and practice with it alot more this winter and get used to it.

Also, I did run it with a larger prop than I usually do and the pipe length was longer

as well. The "Tigers" like 8 3/8" to 8 1/4" pipe length with a X637 prop and don't

like much else in props unless you make the pipe longer.

Thanks Again
 
james irwin said:
TIM : INTAKE TIMMING ?    MAN THAT TAKES A LOT OF TERATORY ??? HOW BEST TO GET INTO THIS ???  OK , LETS TRY IT THIS WAY ,    DO YOU LIKE A LOT OF RPM OR DO YOU LIKE TORQUE ?

    LET ME TELL YOU HOW I APPROCH THIS ON MY MOTORS . ( THE SIZE OF MOTOR ALSO MUST BE TAKEN INTO CONSIDERATION )        NOW , DO NOT TAKE THIS AS GOSSPLE , OK ,    3.5 ENGINES  EXH.  174/178 DEGREE

                                                            INT .    122/126  "             

                                                            BOOSTER INCL.

                                                            ( CRANSHAFT  OPEN 35/40      CLOSE65  THIS IS THE SAME ON ALL MOTORS , REGARDLESS OF SIZE )

                                            7.5      EXH.  178/186  ( BIGGER  MOTOR)

                                                      INT. 124/128

                                            67/82/    EVERY THING THE SAME AS A 45

      OK , LETS SAY YOU WANT A TON OF RP :) M . AND YOU HAVE YOUR MOTOR SET AS I DO ??  MAN AJUST THAT PIPE . AND NOW YOU HAVE IT ,  TORQUE ,  LENGHTHEN THE PIPE NOW YOU HAVE YOUR TOQUE .  GO INBETWEEN AND NOW YOU CAN HAVE THEM BOTH .  AS YOU CAN SEE I DO RUN A CONSERVITIVE MOTOR , AND THEN GET WHAT I LIKE WITH THE PIPE.  PLEASE O NOT FORGET , THIS MOTOR TIMING IS JUST A VERY SMALL PART OF BEING COSISTANT, AND CONSISTANTLY FAST .HOPE THIS HELPS        GOD BLESS

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Things are not as simple as Jim describes and definitely same timing numbers are not aplicable to different brands. It makes a huge difference how many ports and how are they set. Just my 2 cents

Frank
 
F.Orlic said:
Things are not as simple as Jim describes and definitely same timing numbers are not aplicable to different brands. It makes a huge difference how many ports and how are they set. Just my 2 cents

Frank

76593[/snapback]


Frank - you have me interested / intrigued. ( I know you don't post often so when you do, I pay attention) ;)

Is there anything particular to the Novarossi long stroke for example that you might be prepared to share?

Thanks,

Tim
 
TimD said:
F.Orlic said:
Things are not as simple as Jim describes and definitely same timing numbers are not aplicable to different brands. It makes a huge difference how many ports and how are they set. Just my 2 cents

Frank

76593[/snapback]


Frank - you have me interested / intrigued. ( I know you don't post often so when you do, I pay attention) ;)

Is there anything particular to the Novarossi long stroke for example that you might be prepared to share?

Thanks,

Tim

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Tim - the reasons I say things are not so simple is because every engine has different things that makes them go. For example what makes Picco 45 to run very well will not work on CMB 45 or OPS 45 and vice versa because the porting is different as well as bore/stroke ratio. Unlike many other tuners I only worked on 4-5 different engines, yes, I could do the same thing on all engines but that is not tunning. There is no magic numbers for any given engine size and possibly not even for one particular engine because many things come in play. How many ports engine has and how are they aimed/laid out is very important. For example 7 port sleeve will run very different than 3 port sleeve in the same engine with the same port area. When engine is running 30k the way fuel enters the cylinder is what makes engine run in a particular way, however, there are ways to make engine think that there is more ports and more fuel control. Novarossi is a prime example of the same engine with many different sleeve configurations for different aplications, I'm sure they would like to make one sleeve that fits all but that is not possible. Hope this helps a bit as this is just very basic explanation why things are not so simple as applying same numbers to engines of particular size.

Advanced Racing Tech

Frank Orlic
 
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