HOW TO

[james irwin]

I NEED TO KNOW HOW MANY OF YOU OUT THERE WOULD LIKE TO KNOW ABOUT MOTORS ??? YOU ALL KNOW I HAVE BEEN MESSING WITH 2 CYCLE ENGINES FOR ABOUT 65 YRS NOW , I DO THINK I NEED TO PASS THIS ON TO THOSE OUT THERE THAT WOULD LIKE TO BUILD THERE OWN AND BE MORE THAN COMPETITIVE ( EVEN WITH A BOX STK MOTOR ) MABY OL TOM WILL LET US DO THAT / THIS IS NOT TO DISPUTE ANY ONES IDEAS /OR TRYING TO SAY THEY ARE IS WRONG . THESE WILL BE NOTHING MORE THAN WHAT I HAVE LEARNED OVER THE YRS , IT WILL NOT BE AN AREA FOR ANY ARGUMENT OR DISCUSION . JUST AN OPEN LETTER TO WHAT I HAVE LEARNED ??

YOU WILL BE ABLE TO ASK A QUESTION ABOUT THIS OR THAT . LET TOM KNOW OK LOL GOD BLESS B)

 

[Jerry Wyss]

Howdy James, I for one, am all for that. Info on tuned pipes, how to mathmaticaly

figure port timing without a wheel and why I'm all of sudden melting down the side

of TT OB rods against the PTO with 4 extra ounces of Castor in the fuel. Ok, so it

probably won't cover the last one but ,,Yeah, I'd like see your knowledge poured

out on this thing,,Who wouldn't,,except maybe your competition.

Jerry

 

[Glenn 787]

I'm always looking for more knowledge on going faster. Is this a letter you're going to write or just an open Q/A session on this thread?

Thanks, Glenn

 

[izitbrokeyet?]

Jim,

I think you have alot to offer all of us younguns.....I'd definitely would appreciate anything you have to share

 

[james irwin]

WHAT I WOULD TO DO IS HAVE AN OPEN Q/ A OR DO IT ANY WAY THAT WILL BEIFIT ALL . YOU LET ME KNOW OK !

 

[F.Orlic]

WHAT I WOULD TO DO IS HAVE AN OPEN  Q/ A  OR DO IT ANY WAY THAT WILL BEIFIT ALL .  YOU LET ME KNOW    OK !

70025[/snapback]

​

Always interested in engine stuff, count me in

Frank Orlic

 

[james irwin]

HEY HEY JERRY YOU HAVE A GOOD THERE , ROD MELT DOWN ON AN OUTBOARD // EVEN WITH EXTRA OIL ???? VERY SIMPLE , I WILL BET YOU ARE NOT USING A PTO THAT HAS A LIMITING COLLAR ON THE BOTTOM OF THE PTO TO KEEP THE FLEX SHAFT FROM JAMMING THE PTO OUTPUT SHAFT UP AGAINST THE ROD ?? OR CECK THE FLEXES THEY MAY TO LONG ?? CAUSE THE SAME THING GREASE IN THE CAVITY ( ON THE SHAFT ) WILL OLSO DO IT tHATS WHY I USE THE STP AND TRANSMISSION FUILD FOR SHAFT LUBE . LET US KNOW IF YOU FIND ANY OF THIS OK

 

[james irwin]

B)

ON THE ABOVE I FORGOT TO SAY , DONT OVERLOOK ANY OF THIS AS IT WILL ADD A HELLOF A LOT OF RIPPEM (RPM ) GOD BLESS

 

[Jerry Wyss]

It's a Thunder Tiger,,So I don't think it would be the shafts too long , cause at that

end of the Flex it gets to second gear of two from the engine. BUT, I did do sumthin' on this engine that I haven't done on any of the previous,,,, I removed

the sheild on the PTO bearing thats on the lower unit side,, and that "brass sleeve"

that surrounds that steel pin above the first gear,,slides back and forth now!!

OOOOOOO,OH MAN!! YOUR GOOD!!

WHOOPS! DERR IT IS! WHOOPS! DERR IT IS!

Cheers and Applause Please!

Thanks Jim

Jerry

 

[TimD]

Jim,

I'd like to hear your thoughts on intake timings. What numbers do you aim for?

 

[Bob Kensill]

I would like to get in to this too! The school of hard knocks is a tough one. I will ask a question of you Jim. What can I do to get my K&B 45 outboard to come on the pipe a little less violently? My setup is a modified powerhead with stock timing,but larger ports,.0075" head clearance,turbo crank,.375" bore carb,pipe length is about 9.25". My fuel is 65% nitro. Prop is a stock Octura 1650. The boat is Tommy Lee's SAW boat. It is a handful to drive till it settles down. Speed id just a little over 74mph,but i'm looking for 80mph.

 

[Jerry Wyss]

Well, I'm gonna have to submit a "Premature Cellabration Retraction"

My PTO shaft can't move (endplay) as it has a steel pin that captures the

bearings in the PTO housing,,The " Brass Sleeve" has the single purpose

of surrounding That steel pin and thats it.

The conrods I'm getting now are two different types that are from cars,,

a "machined unit" that looks much like the original type except it has a

drilled passageway for oil to the crankpin that faces the crank,, much

like all rods in our engines. The second type looks like a "forged" or

"cast" rod that is "Knife edged" and has the drilling also. I have melted

the PTO side of all three types of these rods lately in two seperate engines.

The "forged" type seems to melt less than the others and I have added

up to 5 ounces of castor to the latest gallons of fuel. I am turning more

RPMs now than I ever have and am trying to be careful about keeping

things rich enough. I may have to find a more suitable replacement for

the Castor,, some kind of "surface modifier" like Don Ferrette was using.

I'll be around. Jerry

 

[GTR]

Hi Guys

I would also like to have some more 'experienced' knowledge about engines discussed here.

Bob in relation to your pipe issue, and I'm sure Jim will have the answer, your pipe length may well be right but your cone angles/volume are almost certainly wrong for what you want. I think what you may need is a longer divergent cone with an increased volume. The very high Nitro is having the same effect as shortening the pipe and increasing exhaust gas volumes.

Of course I could be completely off track here and would appreciate Jims input and the explanation of why he has determined it so.

 

[daveyburt]

Mr. Irwin,



Thats a VERY gracious offer that any type of hardcore enthusiats will jump at.

THANK YOU

THANK YOU

THANK YOU!!

I would like to offer a bunch of web experience and a bit of free space on a server if you would like to share your knowledge that way.

just throwin it out there.....

no bene for me except the knowledge you posses.

guys/gals?....

i must remind you that if we go this way i cant afford to spend anything but my time on it.

i'll leave it at that for now....

looking forward to following this post.

I WANNA FAST BOAT TOO!!



thanks!!

dave

 

[jydracing]

hi jerry i was reading in your posts about you melting rod ends and got to thinking if you have one of the orignal rods check the thickness of the rod where the bushing is are they the same. just a thought jimmy

 

[lohring]

Good conservative timing numbers are 180 degree exhaust duration, 126 degree transfer duration, intake closing at 65 degrees after top dead center with over 200 degrees duration.

Lohring Miller

 

[Jerry Wyss]

I don't have an original (first run) rod left so I don't have anything to compare

the other two with. The strange thing is that the latest "forged or cast" rod is

one and a half thousands wider than the "machined" unit and it wears the least.

The oringinals wore too over along period of time,,,years,,but now it shows up

rather quickly. I think I've found the reasonable limit of the design,,but a good

fuel additive of some kind may be an answer,,but I don't know what that would

be,,,I remember Don Ferrette talking about "Blue kart" oil with an additive in

a past Topic,,,there were other additives mentioned in that topic by other boaters

as well,,guess I'll have to dig back into them and find out what they were.

Jerry

 

[topfuel443]

Jerry, That would be www.morganfuels.com

they have the friction modifier.

~James

 

[aamick1971]

try some klotz oil in your fuel.

allen

 

[Jerry Wyss]

I have the Klotz , I like it,,can't believe I haven't tried it yet,, just thought castor

might be better.

Thanks James,,I'll check MorganFuels out,,I used to use Sidewinder for years,,But

just have to rely on what juice I can get at any given time. The last was a 6 gal

case of 60% Powermaster,,which company I have a "Bone" with over the loss

of a main bearing in a New OS 61 HSX Heli motor a few years back. Do you

Guys know of anybody thats had trouble with Powermaster??

Jerry