How often???????
- Thread starter davo
- Start date
Help Support Intlwaters:
Scott Schneider
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Nov 29, 2003
- Messages
- 848
That question has NO right anwser. :blink:
"IF" you flush out engine properly every day you run it and use a good after run oil you should get a racing season out of them no problem.
When you flush out engine and have NO oil in it yet and when turning over feel any clics, sticks or grittyness AT ALL ! replace them.
Lots of other reasons bearing will go bad early, Servere detonation is one and running too hot with a low quanity and/or quality of oil in fuel is another.
Be safe, bearings are cheep compaired to piston/cylinder assemblies. If in doubt?
Scott
"IF" you flush out engine properly every day you run it and use a good after run oil you should get a racing season out of them no problem.
When you flush out engine and have NO oil in it yet and when turning over feel any clics, sticks or grittyness AT ALL ! replace them.
Lots of other reasons bearing will go bad early, Servere detonation is one and running too hot with a low quanity and/or quality of oil in fuel is another.
Be safe, bearings are cheep compaired to piston/cylinder assemblies. If in doubt?
Scott
R
RaceCraftBearings
Guest
Hello Davo , I have been out all day today. First prepping the 2004 Winter Nationals site for the race in two weeks and then had a trip down to Boca Raton and just returned home (1:48 am h34r: ). I will elaborate on your question after some sleep and then more work at the lake on Sunday.
Ron
h34r: ). I will elaborate on your question after some sleep and then more work at the lake on Sunday.Ron
Last edited:
- Joined
- Dec 20, 2002
- Messages
- 846
Hi Davo.
If the bearings are of good quality (like Racecraft), and you take care of your engine with proper lubrication and after run oil, you should have no problems running them for a full season. I've even run a few of my Racecraft bearings two full seasons to see how they would hold up and they stood the test.
To be safe, change them yearly.
Have fun .............................. Randy
If the bearings are of good quality (like Racecraft), and you take care of your engine with proper lubrication and after run oil, you should have no problems running them for a full season. I've even run a few of my Racecraft bearings two full seasons to see how they would hold up and they stood the test.
To be safe, change them yearly.
Have fun .............................. Randy
R
RaceCraftBearings
Guest
Hello again Davo, sorry for the delay but lots of things going on right now.
Scott is correct in that there is no right answer on how often to change bearings.
If your bearings dont feel rough or gritty and dont have excessive end or side play they should be good to go. However I have seen in a few cases with High Qualty traditional bearings and in many cases with the Ceramic bearings where once the motor was at temprature the bearings would bind even though when cold they felt fine (I would like to add that I would not install Ceramic bearings in my worst enemies motor.) They are without a doubt the worst thing since sliced bread in my opinion and the opinion some of my customers who learned the hard way.
Also a good way to tell its time to replace a set of bearings is when the motor goes lean for no apparent reason and you have exhausted all possible causes but not replaced bearing yet there is a good bet that once you do all will be fine again.
As Randy says to be safe change them yearly with the assumtion that you have had no catostaphic events within the motor such as broken rods and the like. In the case where you have had something in the motor break there could be particles in the bearings which at this point could be cleaned but better off replaced to be sure you wont have any FOD floating around inside to find its way to the piston and liner or perhaps damage the crank or the clearances that are critical to the performance of your motor.
I have also done as Randy states and ran my bearings multiple seasons which to be exact it was 3 seasons long, in Florida that is 36 months straight of racing just to test the quality and reliability of the merchandise I sell as top Quality. They held up to the test and I am back on my regular schedule of changing bearings in all my motors yearly over the holidays so that I am ready to go at the Winter Nationals each January. I will state that it is imperative that you clean out and store your motors properly to make such a feat possible. There are many different and great ways to accomplish this but the one I use and it works great for me is: I but Autozone brand spray lube $1.99 a can, plus some good ole everyday ATF (Automatic Transmission Fluid) of course I use Dexron beacause I am a Chevy man . Drain all fuel out of the fuel tank, spray liberal amounts of spray lube through the carb and into the motor while turning it over with the starter flushing all traces of nitro out. Then through the plug hole I place the motor at BDC and squirt some ATF in then I turn the motor over by hand with my thumb over the plug hole to help build a slight amount of compression which distributes the ATF into the voids of the motor, after that I put the piston at the beginning of the compression phase (all ports closed) and fill the motor with ATF and then install the plug. Dont turn the motor over anymore so that the ATF will remain until you blow it out just before the next running session. WARNING be careful when you pick the boat up as the pipe may have some ATF in it that will turn your shirt all red and the wife will not be a happy camper :angry: LOL.
Hope this helps! Good Luck and Great Boating!
Ron Byrd
Race Craft Bearings & Hobby
Scott is correct in that there is no right answer on how often to change bearings.
If your bearings dont feel rough or gritty and dont have excessive end or side play they should be good to go. However I have seen in a few cases with High Qualty traditional bearings and in many cases with the Ceramic bearings where once the motor was at temprature the bearings would bind even though when cold they felt fine (I would like to add that I would not install Ceramic bearings in my worst enemies motor.) They are without a doubt the worst thing since sliced bread in my opinion and the opinion some of my customers who learned the hard way.
Also a good way to tell its time to replace a set of bearings is when the motor goes lean for no apparent reason and you have exhausted all possible causes but not replaced bearing yet there is a good bet that once you do all will be fine again.
As Randy says to be safe change them yearly with the assumtion that you have had no catostaphic events within the motor such as broken rods and the like. In the case where you have had something in the motor break there could be particles in the bearings which at this point could be cleaned but better off replaced to be sure you wont have any FOD floating around inside to find its way to the piston and liner or perhaps damage the crank or the clearances that are critical to the performance of your motor.
I have also done as Randy states and ran my bearings multiple seasons which to be exact it was 3 seasons long, in Florida that is 36 months straight of racing just to test the quality and reliability of the merchandise I sell as top Quality. They held up to the test and I am back on my regular schedule of changing bearings in all my motors yearly over the holidays so that I am ready to go at the Winter Nationals each January. I will state that it is imperative that you clean out and store your motors properly to make such a feat possible. There are many different and great ways to accomplish this but the one I use and it works great for me is: I but Autozone brand spray lube $1.99 a can, plus some good ole everyday ATF (Automatic Transmission Fluid) of course I use Dexron beacause I am a Chevy man
. Drain all fuel out of the fuel tank, spray liberal amounts of spray lube through the carb and into the motor while turning it over with the starter flushing all traces of nitro out. Then through the plug hole I place the motor at BDC and squirt some ATF in then I turn the motor over by hand with my thumb over the plug hole to help build a slight amount of compression which distributes the ATF into the voids of the motor, after that I put the piston at the beginning of the compression phase (all ports closed) and fill the motor with ATF and then install the plug. Dont turn the motor over anymore so that the ATF will remain until you blow it out just before the next running session. WARNING be careful when you pick the boat up as the pipe may have some ATF in it that will turn your shirt all red and the wife will not be a happy camper :angry: LOL.Hope this helps! Good Luck and Great Boating!
Ron Byrd
Race Craft Bearings & Hobby
Last edited:
R
RaceCraftBearings
Guest
Davo I really have no answer for that. As long as you clean all the nitro out then at least the bearings wont be eaten by the acidic residue however moisture can enter the motor without after run oil left in it and then rust will begin. How long till they rust up so badly they need replaced depends on a lot of factors.
Ron
Ron
If by low nitro you mean 5% or 10% then bearing life won't be as much of an issue. However if you mean 25% + your bearings will not last very long at all without a good flush afterwards. (plus cranks tend to rust or get crappy looking)
If you are not too keen on the ATF idea - try running some good old 4:1 fuel thru the motor before you pack up at the pond. That is 20% castor oil, 80% methanol. Some guys use 30% oil which is a mix of castor and Synthetic. Keep in mind that methanol is hydroscopic - it attracts and absorbs water - so get rid of it all from the motor afterwards. I run mine for about 20 seconds @ fat idle with plug lead on. Then I use the ATF after that. This is common practice where I race.
If you are not too keen on the ATF idea - try running some good old 4:1 fuel thru the motor before you pack up at the pond. That is 20% castor oil, 80% methanol. Some guys use 30% oil which is a mix of castor and Synthetic. Keep in mind that methanol is hydroscopic - it attracts and absorbs water - so get rid of it all from the motor afterwards. I run mine for about 20 seconds @ fat idle with plug lead on. Then I use the ATF after that. This is common practice where I race.
tracerbob
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Dec 7, 2003
- Messages
- 559
Ron,
Just read your comments on bearings with great interest. especially the part about the motor going lean for no apparent reason. I've got an engine (MAC 67 silverhead) thats displaying that same problem. This thing's driving me nuts :angry: . It starts only when I set it very rich and after I launch it, I start to lean it out, then it goes way lean, and littorally flies for a half lap and runs out of gas, but with a full tank. I've checked for leaks, restrictions, everything. It just does'nt want to draw fuel. I just ordered a bearing set from you this morning. Hope this will cure it.
Just read your comments on bearings with great interest. especially the part about the motor going lean for no apparent reason. I've got an engine (MAC 67 silverhead) thats displaying that same problem. This thing's driving me nuts :angry: . It starts only when I set it very rich and after I launch it, I start to lean it out, then it goes way lean, and littorally flies for a half lap and runs out of gas, but with a full tank. I've checked for leaks, restrictions, everything. It just does'nt want to draw fuel. I just ordered a bearing set from you this morning. Hope this will cure it.
R
RaceCraftBearings
Guest
Robert, thanks for the order! Are you by chance related to Keith Timmons also from Lynn Haven? He is also a customer of mine and was just curious.
Thanks again!
Ron
Thanks again!
Ron
tracerbob
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Dec 7, 2003
- Messages
- 559
Sure am! In fact he lives across the street from me. I dropped out of boating for a few years, then......BAM! Right back into it and loving it except for a cantankous .67 that may not make to the WinterNats if it doesn't straighten up. I'll look you up and say howdy while I'm there.
R
RaceCraftBearings
Guest
Robert, bring the 67 even if you dont get it going! There are a few other things to check on it. Call me if youd like at 407-448-9678.
Ron
Ron
tracerbob
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Dec 7, 2003
- Messages
- 559
Ron,
I dissasembled the motor and cleaned it out with lacquer thinner. The rear bearing does not want to spin freely. The crank spins fine but the bearing doesn't want to spin with it. It will spin, but not as freely as the crank.
I tried to pop the flywheel off with a gear puller but stopped as the flywheel material is rather soft and it was beginning to scar up. I know these things are mounted on a brass tapered piece but I need to be schooled on the proper way to remove the flywheel without boogering it up. Any suggestions? Maybe a little heat to expand it some?
To remove the bearings, I usually bolt a piece of 1/4 inch aluminium flat stock with the same bolt pattern as the mount onto one of the motor mount lugs, then apply heat and tap the flat stock with a hammer until the large bearing falls out, then I use a wooden dowel to drive out the small one.
Sure could use some input on all of this as it's been a long time since I replaced bearings. I really think the bearings are the root of my problem. Is the Phone number you posted a daytime or evening number?
I dissasembled the motor and cleaned it out with lacquer thinner. The rear bearing does not want to spin freely. The crank spins fine but the bearing doesn't want to spin with it. It will spin, but not as freely as the crank.
I tried to pop the flywheel off with a gear puller but stopped as the flywheel material is rather soft and it was beginning to scar up. I know these things are mounted on a brass tapered piece but I need to be schooled on the proper way to remove the flywheel without boogering it up. Any suggestions? Maybe a little heat to expand it some?
To remove the bearings, I usually bolt a piece of 1/4 inch aluminium flat stock with the same bolt pattern as the mount onto one of the motor mount lugs, then apply heat and tap the flat stock with a hammer until the large bearing falls out, then I use a wooden dowel to drive out the small one.
Sure could use some input on all of this as it's been a long time since I replaced bearings. I really think the bearings are the root of my problem. Is the Phone number you posted a daytime or evening number?
R
RaceCraftBearings
Guest
Robert you can call that number anytime between 8 am and 11 pm. Call now if you get this in time I will be up till at least midnight tonight and its now 10:30 as I write this.
I use a three pronge puller that I bought at a auto parts house to get the flywheel off. If we can get on the phone I will coach you through it. I will post the details later on how I remove and replace bearings but at the momment I am busy getting an order of bearings figured up to place with my supplier.
Ron
I use a three pronge puller that I bought at a auto parts house to get the flywheel off. If we can get on the phone I will coach you through it. I will post the details later on how I remove and replace bearings but at the momment I am busy getting an order of bearings figured up to place with my supplier.
Ron
Last edited:
R
RaceCraftBearings
Guest
It 3:52 here and I just got home, will be ready for your call in an hour or so.
L8R...........Ron
L8R...........Ron
G
Guest_Norm Doerr
Guest
A couple of things that I noticed with bearings are.
If the boat goes underwater and the pond is dirty bearings will go sooner. A LOT SOONER
If everything is the same, MIXTURE, PROP, PIPE, BOAT AND ETC. And out of no where you start losing plugs. IT IS THE BEARINGS. I like to change the bearings twice a season Once at the begining and once halfway through. Our little engines suck an lot of junk in them and one would be surprised if you looked at a seemingly good set under a 10 X loop.... The balls tend to look sandblasted or cracked and etc.
If the boat goes underwater and the pond is dirty bearings will go sooner. A LOT SOONER
If everything is the same, MIXTURE, PROP, PIPE, BOAT AND ETC. And out of no where you start losing plugs. IT IS THE BEARINGS. I like to change the bearings twice a season Once at the begining and once halfway through. Our little engines suck an lot of junk in them and one would be surprised if you looked at a seemingly good set under a 10 X loop.... The balls tend to look sandblasted or cracked and etc.
Similar threads
Latest posts
-
-
Parts For Sale New OS .46 MAX VX / extra parts- Latest: Ronnie Lerew
-
-
-
-
2024 D-14 Dennis Holt Memorial Mini Regatta Entry- Latest: Kevin Lichlyter
-
-