HERE'S A LITTLE SOMETHING I WHIPPED UP IN MY GARAGE

Discussion in 'Parts and Building Supplies' started by Steve Seebold, Feb 18, 2014.

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  1. Feb 18, 2014 #1

    Steve Seebold

    Steve Seebold

    Steve Seebold

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    I was bored last week so I made some new rudders and standoffs for gas monos.

    Please, tell me what you think. Should I make it a production item?

    Picture 001.jpg

    Picture 002.jpg
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Feb 18, 2014
  2. Feb 18, 2014 #2

    Steve P

    Steve P

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    I like what you did with the water pickup. You might want to consider rounding off the front top edge of the rudder blade and using a brass screw in the lower hole so it acts as a shear pin and allows the rudder to kick up on a hard impact to protect the trasnsom.
     
  3. Feb 18, 2014 #3

    Ronald Van Wagnen

    Ronald Van Wagnen

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    Even if the lower bolt was removed it would not pivot !

    Do not make it a production item, you will only disappoint more consumers.

    P.S. the steering arm looks mighty short for a gasser also. [​IMG]
     
  4. Feb 18, 2014 #4

    Steve Seebold

    Steve Seebold

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    Steve, you're right. The top of the rudder needs to be rounded to prevent damage to the boat in the event of a collision.
     
  5. Feb 19, 2014 #5

    Rick Reisinger

    Rick Reisinger

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    I have purchased Hardware from Steve before > Very High Quality ... He is a craftsman .....

    " He could use some beauty sleep " but the quality of his work is Dead ON .......

    Rick Reisinger
     
  6. Feb 19, 2014 #6

    Steve Seebold

    Steve Seebold

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    I run one on my boat and the steering arm length works just fine.
     
  7. Feb 20, 2014 #7

    Roy McManus

    Roy McManus

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    Very Nice Work Steve! Round the top an add a brass bottom 6-32 an your set [​IMG]
     
  8. Feb 20, 2014 #8

    Steve Seebold

    Steve Seebold

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    I have rounded the front corner and added a 6-32 brass screw
     
  9. Feb 21, 2014 #9

    RaceMechaniX

    RaceMechaniX

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    Steve,

    I would make the top pivot bolt a 10-32. I say that because no matter how much I crank on a steel 8-32 pivot bolt the rudder slightly kicks back during a race. Having more to crank down on would be nice.

    TG
     
  10. Feb 21, 2014 #10

    Steve Seebold

    Steve Seebold

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    Hey Tyler, I like your idea, BUT, if you happen to hit something with the rudder held that tight, I think you'll stand a really good chance of doing some major damage to the back of the boat. Probably something like rip the transom out.

    I have run the 8-32/4-40 screw combination for a long time and never had a problem. I would say, if you're really concerned about your rudder moving at high speeds in today's heat racing, I know a simple solution. SLOW DOWN. LOL
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Feb 21, 2014
  11. Feb 21, 2014 #11

    Steve Seebold

    Steve Seebold

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    Before anyone asks, I made 40 assemblies. They're $65.00 each. Dealer inquiries are invited.
     
  12. Feb 22, 2014 #12

    Nigtmare

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    I guess you don't give up

    Steve Seebold


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    Posted 08 February 2014 - 09:47 PM


    I'm looking for some running gear for a Classic Thunderboat I'm building, and I don't like the stuff that's currently available.

    I could make it myself, but I got back in to the areoapace industry a few weeks ago, and now I just don't have time.

    Besides, I have been forbidden from advertising my stuff on this site.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Feb 22, 2014
  13. Feb 22, 2014 #13

    Steve Seebold

    Steve Seebold

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    Perhaps I should have made myself more clear. NO, you can't buy them from me. I am in the process of setting up a dealer network. I'll post dealers names as they become available. I don't want to deal with the public. I want to deal with dealers. I just want to make the stuff.
     
  14. Feb 22, 2014 #14

    Ron Jefferson

    Ron Jefferson

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    He's a tough act to follow Nick. A week ago he was busy with the areoapace (whatever that is) industry and looking for someone to build hardware for him. This week he's advertising his hardware and looking for dealers to handle the complaints. Huh?
     
  15. Mar 2, 2014 #15

    Steve Seebold

    Steve Seebold

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    You just couldn't stand it could you Ron. I didn't make the stuff for your boat so you're going to keep slamming me every chance you get.

    Do you know why I didn't make your stuff? I don't do knockoffs without permission from the guy who made it first. I just don't do business that way.

    If you remember correctly, I offered to reimburse you for the money you paid Steve Wood for your new hardware. To which I got no reply.

    Yeah, I make more money doing aerospace work (making parts for airplanes). A lot more. I don't really want to do it because of all the paperwork. To do aerospace work I have to provide material certifications so I can prove what kind of material I made my parts out of. I have to provide heat treat and plating certifications so they know who did it and how it was done, then I have to wait 60 to 180 days to get paid. That means I have to pay all my suppliers within 30 days, then HOPE I get paid before I run out of money so I can pay my rent, electric and phone bills.

    I don't make a lot of money on model boat stuff. I do it more for something to do. I sell more stuff in Europe than I do in the USA. It seems people here are more interested in Speedmaster prices than they are in good quality.

    Speaking of quality, what does Speedmaster do if one of their parts fails? I'll tell you what I do. I will repair it, replace it or refund your money. YOUR CHOICE.
     
  16. Mar 4, 2014 #16

    Jeff Barnhart

    Jeff Barnhart

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    You need to roughen the surfaces that clamp together.

    The friction between the surfaces is what should be transmitting the shear loads in that direction (in other words, the friction between the surfaces is what is preventing the rudder from kicking back due to water drag) and if they are too smooth, you don't have enough friction to clamp it in place. In this type of connection, the bolt is purely in a tensile load from being tightened.

    Here is some information that will explain what I'm talking about further. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Slip-critical_joint
     
  17. Mar 5, 2014 #17

    Jerry Dunlap

    Jerry Dunlap

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  18. Mar 9, 2014 #18

    Steve Seebold

    Steve Seebold

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    Nope, I never give up. I'm not a quitter, Never have been, never will be. This time, i showed a product before I said anything about what I can do. I know I stired up a lot of crap before when I said what I can make and then never produced or showed anything. For that I apologize. I won't be doing that again.

    Ron Jefferson sent me some running gear to duplicate and I didn't do it and it took me a long time to send it back to him. For that I sincerely apologize. He finally had Steve Wood make him some new running gear to replace what he sent me. I offered to reimburse him for what he spent to have Steve make his new stuff, but he never let me know how much he paid for it. My offer still stands

    I asked for anyone who makes running gear for my Thunder boat and I received a lot of suggestions. Thank you for that. I just don't care for 2 or 3 piece standoffs or the waterline being exposed like most folks make it, and I think a wire tie on the standoff to prevent that waterline from flopping around looks tacky. Imagine how it would look if you had a $300,000.00 Ferrari and the air filter was outside the engine box because someone didn't have enough imagination to put it under the hood. I know that's an exaggeration, but I think you get what I am saying

    I know I asked for Thunder Boat running gear and what I made is for monos. That's because I run mostly monos. I race them, but you never hear about me in the winners circle because I suck as a driver. I think in the 13 years I have been racing, I have ONE first place finish and that was by attrition. My boat was the last one running. I even slowed down because I'm chicken. I didn't want to get a DNF. I mean, hell, I was about to get 400 points, why should I settle for 25.

    Right now, I am working on a batch of outdrives for gas boats and yes they are going to be expensive, but I have sold some to racers who are on their 5th season and haven't replaced the lead teflon bushings yet.

    There will be more stuff coming. I won't show any of it till it's finished and ready for sale, and i won't talk about it until I'm ready to put up some pictures.

    OK, lets all go burn up some water.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Mar 9, 2014
  19. Mar 9, 2014 #19

    Ron Jefferson

    Ron Jefferson

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    Ok Steve, Send $83.00usd via paypal to rdjefferson@sympatico.ca or to the following address via usps International money order...

    Ron Jefferson

    330 Canterbury Place

    Belmont, ON. Canada

    N0L 1B0
     
  20. Mar 10, 2014 #20

    Steve Seebold

    Steve Seebold

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    OK Ron, it's on its way via paypal. If I could undo what I did to you, I would do it. Unfortunately, I cannot unthrow a rock or unring a bell.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Mar 10, 2014

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