Dumas Eagle sport 40

Intlwaters

Help Support Intlwaters:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

tracerbob

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 7, 2003
Messages
559
I've got this old kit still in the box that I've had for years. Thinking about building it just to satisfy my craving to build. Anybody have any experience building or tweeking it to correct designed in fualts? I'd think it woud be a good fun runner if I don't have to redesign the boat.
 
I remember reading somewhere that you can do some fairly easy mods to make the boat competitive. The bad part is I can't remember where I read and/or saw it....... :unsure:
 
I think the hull needs to be wider.......a few guys run this hull pretty competetive in our district.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Chris,

Can you give me a few more details? How much wider? BTW, thanks for the reply. :D
 
I know of one boat that was made an inch wider b/t the engine rails. made the motor easier to mount too.
 
So that's widening the hold centersection??? I was looking at this hull also .
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Yep, I believe there were only a couple of bulkheads that had to be remade. The transom, the next bulkhead forward(keeps integrity of the afterplane), and the bulkhead just as the center section starts. I believe there is a half-round nose block that gets glued on there(b/t the picklefork). Otherwise the rest of the the bulkheads are cut (center section) or the tie b/t the engine rails is removed. Of course the bottom plate supplied will be one inch too narrow now.
 
I cannot verify this for sure but the notched transom is not legal for racing in IMPBA.

I have a new one and I have eliminated the extensions on the sponsons (rear) to avoid any rule infractions.

My boat is stock except for the depth of the dig-in pads. These have been moved up .125”

I have an older RC Marine designs super sport 45 that I really like and the eagle is just because I love wood boats. You should see the grain pattern on the roof of the tunnel (Kick A@@)

grim
 
"My boat is stock except for the depth of the dig-in pads. These have been moved up .125”

Grim, when you say "moved up" do you mean up as in thinner or moved forward? I don't really understand what your saying here. This is really helping out folks. :D I'm getting all kinds of ideas. Does Dumas still sell this kit?
 
TRB

Moved up as in thinner.

Do your self a favor and do not lighten the hull…big waist of effort. The ones that I have seen that have been lightened are not worth a hill of beans. I think balancing the weight to the power to the lift is key to this boat and this boat is good here…

I had the chance to see a few of these boats run and run well they do. Bob Pruesses sons boat was the best I have seen. He no longer races but the boat was killer.

I think that you can still get the boat from Dumas directly. Im not sure as I have had my kit for about 6 years. Just got it built up this winter and have lots to do yet.. Mine will likely be OPS powered but im not sure.. Still looking for a motor for the thing. I need to buy two of them and I have had good luck with OPS so I might go this way..

Rock on

Grim
 
Cool! What are your thoughts on fuel tank placement, I'm not so sure I want to permanentely seal the tanks inside the hull. What did you do on yours? My brother put his in the nose and moved the radio box behind the engine. The result was as the fuel tank emptied, the nose got lighter and the boat blew over. I've noticed on a few glass hulls, there are openings on each side and to the rear of the engine bay to facilitate placement of the fuel tanks. Do you think this would be a workable approach?
 
Guys

Dumas has it on there web page in the Specially Priced Models for $85.00. They must be clearing them out !!! They also have a 36" Atlis Van Lines U-1 in Sport 40 for 63.00 !!!

Grim does the tuned pipe sticking out the rear of the hatch have to be covered to be leagl ?? If I purchase this kit can you help me with the modifications with Email ??? I would really appreciate it :D
 
I will be straight with-ya..Im no Sport 40 expert.. I will help where I can.

For me its radio behind the motor and fuel up front. Its not so much a handling thing as much as it is a reliability thing.. I like the workability of this set up and the fuel up front gives me all the fuel reliability im looking for. Tanks on the side work well to but the way Dumas recommends in the kit I would stay away from.

If nothing else make a hatch on the roof the tunnel and place your tank in there. This is how we have done it in some sport 20 boats and it works quite well.

The pipe will stick out and yes its legal…that is in IMPBA anyway.. hummmm…legal….at least im seeing boats with the pipes hanging out the back at the races in Dist4….Im sure it is a can do….IMPBA Hydro teck dude, (others in the know) Is this a can do?

Help I will with what I can…again im no sport 40 guru thats for sure…

One more note.. When I build the Fuel Cell for mine I will offer it as a stock part in our list of fuel cells.. therefore it will carry the standard 40 dollar cost.. This will be a Up-Front setup…

ROCK ON

Grimracer
 
Hey Mike Thanks for the cowl. As far as sealing the tank in the boat I would never recommend that. Unless it would be a one time boat. Straightaways or record trials, etc. Seals go away with the nitro content used in the fuels. Air leaks, pressure problems the list goes on...I, personally, would do the side saddle tanks. CG of the boat never moves, the whole boat "airs out" about the 4th lap, still balanced. No -nose over- condition to develope in the later laps when you might need the speed.

I have a Phil Boat I am wanting to get on the water this season. Radio box is in the front and side-saddle tanks. I'm still worrying about the boat being a flyer. I have seen these boats really run. Grim I will also run a OPS motor. May not be the fastest but I have found them to be reliable and quick. "Fast , furious, flying for four laps. Upside down on the money lap doesn't get you points."
 

Latest posts

Back
Top