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Im with Rod on this, oil hole lets oil out.
Centrifugal force forces oil away from the centre of a rotating object. Another this is having enough side clearance on the big end.
Ken,
Something also I failed to mention.....as the atmosphere/mixture in the crankcase flows over the the oil holes in the rod it creates a
low pressure area at the hole resulting with a vacuum at the hole and it siphons oil out of the hole.....this is very similar to how a siphon air brush works.....
Also centrifugal force plays a part because the oil is a solid and not a gas.....as velocity increases over the oil hole , pressure decreases causing a vacuum at the hole pulling the oil out.....Bernoulli's equation.....
I knew when I made the post about the oil holes it was going to come home to haunt me....😂😂😂😂
Rod.....
 
Ken,
Something also I failed to mention.....as the atmosphere/mixture in the crankcase flows over the the oil holes in the rod it creates a
low pressure area at the hole resulting with a vacuum at the hole and it siphons oil out of the hole.....this is very similar to how a siphon air brush works.....
Also centrifugal force plays a part because the oil is a solid and not a gas.....as velocity increases over the oil hole , pressure decreases causing a vacuum at the hole pulling the oil out.....Bernoulli's equation.....
I knew when I made the post about the oil holes it was going to come home to haunt me....😂😂😂😂
Rod.....
Oil is a solid??? Hummm?
 
Notebook paper is .003" (.076 mm) thick. That's the clearance I used for nitro big ends. You needed that much room to develop an oil film and not spin the bushing. You also needed 20% oil. K&B usually had this much clearance, but "precision" engines like the OS often had lower clearance.

Lohring Miller
Lohring, so to be clear, that would be a rod bore of .006 over the size of the crank pin, correct?
John
 
I believe the crankpin is the eye of the rotating fan resulting in a low pressure area at the crankpin sucking oil in......I believe that the holes let the oil out....
I may be mistaken but I don't believe so......If you find evidence to the contrary I will gladly apologize.........
I do know this .....spin a rod bushing and cover the holes and a tight rod will last about 2 seconds......😂

Done that a few times on OPS 67 rods . I just think the the force of the rod spinning through the cloud of oily fuel would have to inject it almost in the rod . Who knows but it seems like it would . We used to open up the holes on the OPS rods and chamfer the outside to gather oil in seemed to work .
 
Lohring, so to be clear, that would be a rod bore of .006 over the size of the crank pin, correct?
John

No, sorry. The bore should be .003" bigger. The .003" paper fits on one side of the bore pressing the other side against the crankpin.

Lohring Miller
 
So how about water?
3 states of matter: solid, liquid & gas. Sometimes a 4th state is plasma but I haven’t had a science class in a while.
Oil and water are liquids, compressible or not doesn’t make them a solid.
John
Technically you are correct....
I was trying to make this simple to understand for the RC boater but I see you just are not going to let that happen....
The oil holes in the rod let the oil out......now you explain to all reading this how that happens....
When I responded to this thread all I was trying to do was explain to a RC boater how I kept rods in motors without blowing up.....
I am not going to respond to any more "gotcha" questions......
 
Technically you are correct....
I was trying to make this simple to understand for the RC boater but I see you just are not going to let that happen....
The oil holes in the rod let the oil out......now you explain to all reading this how that happens....
When I responded to this thread all I was trying to do was explain to a RC boater how I kept rods in motors without blowing up.....
I am not going to respond to any more "gotcha" questions......
Rod, I totally agree with you on the oil holes and their function. I wasn’t posing any gotcha questions intentionally. Sorry!
John
 
Rod, I totally agree with you on the oil holes and their function. I wasn’t posing any gotcha questions intentionally. Sorry!
John
John,
Sorry to be such an A-hole.....I am just feeling real bad today.......it was a knee jerk reaction to feeling so sxxxxy.......
 
John,
Sorry to be such an A-hole.....I am just feeling real bad today.......it was a knee jerk reaction to feeling so sxxxxy.......
Rod, Dave Richardson here - I don't usually get into discussions here on the web-
but- following along this on con rods, I will with info on the rods that I produced over the years-
history: first rods I made were for Vico 19, Ops 3.5, KB40(6.5), Ops 65 motors-
This was 1968 ?? onwards- rods were for marine & R/c car & pylon plane motors-
The KB 21 marine motors came along approx. 197-? - then KB7.5 motors- etcetc-
With a call from modeler with a new to market motor & the owner wanting a rod, I would make a rod for free for use of the motor to measure it, make a blueprint for my files & make the parts...
That worked well, as over the years I make rods for 280 different motors-
I went into RPM business in 1975 & retired in 2001-
I had help from good guys along the way: John Ackerman & Martin Davis (lots of testing), Dick Mccoy (glow plugs& info), Don Donikowski (Revenge racing Fuels), Morgan Fuels (oils & good info). & others...


These are NO secrets to make a good conrod. Good design, materials, proper machining methods & precision sizing are needed.
I used a CNC milling machine & Sunnen Honing machine etcetc to produce my product-
with those tools (& more) & years of experience in the Aero space & computer industries, the rods were produced with consistent good quality that always worked well I think-

So... What sizes/ clearances were used on the bores of the rods?
3.5/21 motors (new parts) crankpin size+ .0015"
40/45/46 motors (new parts) Cp size + .002"
65/81 motors (new parts) Cp size + .0025"
90/91/ 1 cu motors (new parts) Cp size + .003"
Wrist pins bores sized to max. to +.0002"
Checking sizes was done with gage pins... made to the correct size by lapping each needed size-
Remember: a rod will run OK with too much clearance... (Stories on that from my own experiences)-
Not enough clearance & rod failure will be there...

Any (ALL) motors with new parts (conrod etc) need a few tanks full of fuel running to allow the parts to seat each other.
15/20 percent oil content in the fuel.
Over 55% nitro fuel needs synthetic oil made for nitro fuel.
Castro oil doesn't mix well with higher nitro percentages above that-
A good fuel is 50 nitro that needles well & produced good power & has some castor oil in the mix-

Oil holes: The hole on top at the base of the rod beam is an oil vent hole.
The two holes on the bottom are inlet pressure holes.
The rods are made to be installed in any direction - there is no front or back side of the rods.
The outer edges of the bottom bore need a chamfer to clear the inner corner of the C pin-
As the motor runs, the big end of the rod runs close to the case bottom bore, which pressures the fuel/ oil into the clearance space on the bottom of the rod / C pin.
the space is wedged shaped & the Cp rotation draws the mix into the top of the bushing, lubing it at the max pressure point.
Oil now is pushed out the top hole keeping that part of the rod lubed & cool, if not to lean a mixture is used.
The faces of the big end of the rod are machined with taper to them: this forms the important wedge shape that helps draw oil into the bushing also.

All the fixturing used for making the rods was pretty simple to use and was made for quick turn around
of setup for different types of rods.
At times I would run 4 or 5 different types of rods in the same production lot of parts.

Maybe this helps answer some of the points about the conrod questions here-
Maybe also more questions are brought up? I hope not too many...

Rod - Thanks for your knowledge & replies to all this... as I've told you before, we can't thank you guys that had some of your life taken away being a standup good citizen...
Be well my friend- KIT-

Dave Richardson
RPM Inc. (retired)
 
Rod, Dave Richardson here - I don't usually get into discussions here on the web-
but- following along this on con rods, I will with info on the rods that I produced over the years-
history: first rods I made were for Vico 19, Ops 3.5, KB40(6.5), Ops 65 motors-
This was 1968 ?? onwards- rods were for marine & R/c car & pylon plane motors-
The KB 21 marine motors came along approx. 197-? - then KB7.5 motors- etcetc-
With a call from modeler with a new to market motor & the owner wanting a rod, I would make a rod for free for use of the motor to measure it, make a blueprint for my files & make the parts...
That worked well, as over the years I make rods for 280 different motors-
I went into RPM business in 1975 & retired in 2001-
I had help from good guys along the way: John Ackerman & Martin Davis (lots of testing), Dick Mccoy (glow plugs& info), Don Donikowski (Revenge racing Fuels), Morgan Fuels (oils & good info). & others...


These are NO secrets to make a good conrod. Good design, materials, proper machining methods & precision sizing are needed.
I used a CNC milling machine & Sunnen Honing machine etcetc to produce my product-
with those tools (& more) & years of experience in the Aero space & computer industries, the rods were produced with consistent good quality that always worked well I think-

So... What sizes/ clearances were used on the bores of the rods?
3.5/21 motors (new parts) crankpin size+ .0015"
40/45/46 motors (new parts) Cp size + .002"
65/81 motors (new parts) Cp size + .0025"
90/91/ 1 cu motors (new parts) Cp size + .003"
Wrist pins bores sized to max. to +.0002"
Checking sizes was done with gage pins... made to the correct size by lapping each needed size-
Remember: a rod will run OK with too much clearance... (Stories on that from my own experiences)-
Not enough clearance & rod failure will be there...

Any (ALL) motors with new parts (conrod etc) need a few tanks full of fuel running to allow the parts to seat each other.
15/20 percent oil content in the fuel.
Over 55% nitro fuel needs synthetic oil made for nitro fuel.
Castro oil doesn't mix well with higher nitro percentages above that-
A good fuel is 50 nitro that needles well & produced good power & has some castor oil in the mix-

Oil holes: The hole on top at the base of the rod beam is an oil vent hole.
The two holes on the bottom are inlet pressure holes.
The rods are made to be installed in any direction - there is no front or back side of the rods.
The outer edges of the bottom bore need a chamfer to clear the inner corner of the C pin-
As the motor runs, the big end of the rod runs close to the case bottom bore, which pressures the fuel/ oil into the clearance space on the bottom of the rod / C pin.
the space is wedged shaped & the Cp rotation draws the mix into the top of the bushing, lubing it at the max pressure point.
Oil now is pushed out the top hole keeping that part of the rod lubed & cool, if not to lean a mixture is used.
The faces of the big end of the rod are machined with taper to them: this forms the important wedge shape that helps draw oil into the bushing also.

All the fixturing used for making the rods was pretty simple to use and was made for quick turn around
of setup for different types of rods.
At times I would run 4 or 5 different types of rods in the same production lot of parts.

Maybe this helps answer some of the points about the conrod questions here-
Maybe also more questions are brought up? I hope not too many...

Rod - Thanks for your knowledge & replies to all this... as I've told you before, we can't thank you guys that had some of your life taken away being a standup good citizen...
Be well my friend- KIT-

Dave Richardson
RPM Inc. (retired)

Thanks Dave,
All I was trying to do was tell somebody how to make a stock K&B rod live in terms as simple as possible.........
I never had any problem with your rods ....they were magnificent....
Now that we got that out of the way....how are you doing????
Rod
 
Thanks Dave,
All I was trying to do was tell somebody how to make a stock K&B rod live in terms as simple as possible.........
I never had any problem with your rods ....they were magnificent....
Now that we got that out of the way....how are you doing????
Rod
Thanks Rod, I'm well enough -
As always, my best to you & yours Rod , will keep in touch-
Dave
 
Rod when you mentioned 1/16 movement did you mean side to side rock? The reasion I asked is when one of the best Mercury outboard race engine builders set up a engine he would hone the bores of the rods until he goe a certin demension side to side rock befor he would assemble his engines.
 
Rod when you mentioned 1/16 movement did you mean side to side rock? The reasion I asked is when one of the best Mercury outboard race engine builders set up a engine he would hone the bores of the rods until he goe a certin demension side to side rock befor he would assemble his engines.
Holding the rod on the crankpin with the rod horizontal , up down at the wrist pin end...
 
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