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Chris B

Member
Joined
Jan 2, 2008
Messages
21
just wondering if you guys are using a water cooled header on the greenie?also what kind of rudder pushrods are you using,i tried the dave brown carbon rods but they still flex a bit. :huh:
 
just wondering if you guys are using a water cooled header on the greenie?also what kind of rudder pushrods are you using,i tried the dave brown carbon rods but they still flex a bit. :huh:
I dont water cool but a Andy Brown header cost the same as a cmb so id use one of his... I use a 440 rod and put a carbon rod over it from my lhs using thick ca
 
The best headers in the world, in my opinion are made by Gary Jensen of RCU. gjensen@webtv His latest pricing is $35.00 and well worth it. I'm using the same headers I use to use on my Piccos, Kmotors and now CMBs.

Tell him I sent ya.
 
The best headers in the world, in my opinion are made by Gary Jensen of RCU. gjensen@webtv His latest pricing is $35.00 and well worth it. I'm using the same headers I use to use on my Piccos, Kmotors and now CMBs.
Tell him I sent ya.

I'll second that Gary's headers are the way to go! His ALL stainless construction eliminates any potential galling between the pipe and header (compared to using an aluminum header).

Gary's correct email: [email protected]

Thanks for the plug Bill.

David Jensen

aka: PakMan
 
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I think all his are around 5 degrees because we all go through transom as opposed to cowling. David, can you pipe in on this for sure, if you see it?

None of us use 10 degree that I know of.

And how are you doing, Mike? I haven't talked to you in a while.

Bill
 
Busy with a new baby but getting in to the office more and more. Been goofing with a new project while at home and even though it's a turbine hull I'm going through the transom on it this time like you guys do. I have two other hulls that I have to go though the transom on so a 5 degree would be killer. I use a 10 going through the transom on my Exide but it's barely makes it.
 
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I think all his are around 5 degrees because we all go through transom as opposed to cowling. David, can you pipe in on this for sure, if you see it?
None of us use 10 degree that I know of.

And how are you doing, Mike? I haven't talked to you in a while.

Bill

Chris B, Bill, Mike, and others,

Sorry I'm so slow on my response. I was working.... :lol: I had hoped that my posting of Gary's correct email would direct to an answer these type of questions, with regard to his headers. Who better to ask than Gary?

I think he will try to make what you want with regard to angle. But if you want one today, he has what he has in stock. I would expect he could/would change and/or make the angle you prefer in his next mfg. cycle. Honestly not sure what that time-frame is. My suggestion would be to ask him via the email address posted previously.

David

Also to answer the original post more completely, Gary's 'for-Sale' headers do not have water-cooling. A little bit of water-cooling just adjacent to the coupler does save couplers. Not many take the time/effort to do this. Too much water/cooling in the header(some would suggest) is not optimal. Some suggest it may impact 'system temperature' ie, motor/header/pipe temp. I have my own opinion.

In regard to rudder push-rods: My suggestion is to always pull to go right. That means tension on your rudder linkage during the majority (if not all) your race turns. Pushing a 'long' connection without support is asking for trouble (inconsistency). Also, no matter the material you you use for your linkage, always try (if possible) to guide (or place a bushing) nearly 1/2 the distance from your radio box exit to the rudder connection for support. I hope this makes sense. I usually use a delrin bushing to support my 'long-run' linkage set-ups.

Sincerly,

David
 
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thanks for the help guys!my engine did'nt come with a cooled header so wrapped some 5/32 tubing around it, should be okay right?
 
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