Aquacraft pull-pull cable

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ozbryan

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 2, 2007
Messages
1,296
Anyone else have trouble getting these cables to take solder??

The first one i had (part of the VS-1 kit worked great!

The project I'm working on now I've tried three brand new cables and nothing works.

First just tried solder

Second tried soaking the ends in acetone.

Third Tim D used a flux agent and tried his soldering iron (much hotter than mine) and still wouldn't take solder..

Am i missing something?? :blink: :blink: :blink:

I want to use this system on this project.. but i might have to go to solid rods.. :( which i don't want to because there SFA room in this thing as it is!
 
is this for steering on a .21 tunnel? if so, get a du bro 4-40 pull-pull kit. give me an email addy to send pics of my set up with this kit. no soldering needed, all crimps. never had one fail. put my old villain s1 into the shore this spring. broke off the left sponson front, exploded the metal pivot/stock mount on the k&b. came off with enough force to make the throttle cable cut about 1 1/2" into the cowl when it flipped up! steering cables held just fine B) .
 
I crimp mine also. The Dubro kits are nice because the include the eye bolts, but I have also used Berkley nylon coated stainless fishing leader material on several builds.
 
i am planning on changing to the dubro kit but i just understand why these cables wont take solder.... isnt that what they are intended to do?

Jerry? Grim? am i doing something wrong?
 
I had problems with the gold colored cables and switched to a silver cable and that worked awesome! As long as your doing the the basics of soldering tin both ends and use solder on the iron to transfer the heat it should work unless its not getting hotgenough....
 
i am planning on changing to the dubro kit but i just understand why these cables wont take solder.... isnt that what they are intended to do?

Jerry? Grim? am i doing something wrong?
I have good success soldering the brass looking cable that comes from Sullivan. Personally, I prefer running solid linkages rather than cable in my tunnel boats. However, I'm running cable in my Kneeler because it looks better than the solid linkages.

JD
 
I didn't have problems with soldering the <silver colour cable> but damm that circle servo horn setup was a hole different story curse mofo curse, stupid idea full stop. Dubro kits sounds good, they must be like fishing trace crimps setup I take it....
 
larry, the new stuff berkley is selling is junk!! black coated stranded wire, too stiff, broke 2 sets early this year. i have used berkley & other's fishing leader wire, but can't find any that i like locally anymore :( . went back to the dubro kit. FYI take a small rattail file & round the edges of the holes in the threaded rods where the cable goes thru them, or they will cut the wire over time. extra crimps can be had at the tackle shop. do the extra wrap as shown on the instructions, it will eliminate any slippage.
 
Althougth I can not include it in the kits I like the non coated Sulivan .032" SS cable the best.

Grim
 
I had trouble with this as well untill Mike Z. showed me the correct way using Staybrite silver solder with acid flux. Works like a charm.
 
I've had all kinds of trouble with the ones that came in my VS1 kit. I started with a soldering iron and tried various solders. Those came undone after a few runs. Then, my local hobby shop guy told me I needed more heat and plumbing flux. So I moved to a tiny butane torch with plumbing flux. It came undone after a flip. Locally I brought the torch with me. I re-soldered the one that came undone, out by the pond. I also sanded the cables tips to make them more porous. I'm sure it'll come undone again. Might be time for that dubro kit.
 
I have found on the flex cable-I believe it is Sullivan, not sure- they make two types. one type takes solder redily, the other will not. if you have the one that won't, read on package and get the other. Jon
 
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Bryan

Heat up the cable then quench it in Bakers flux ( get it at bunnings small black bottle )

Quench the end of your soldering iron also to clean any junk off

heat it back up and solder away

dont breath the fumes it is acid

Greg
I tried this for him Greg - used my SuperScope Iron on it. still no luck. It will not tin.
 
Hey Guys... Another option that was suggested to me by Brian Buaas is to go to the fishing supply store and pick up some stainless leader material.

I picked up some 60lbs leader and the appropriate crimp ferrels at the local Dick's Sporting Goods and setup my Lynx with it and it's been working great. Cable is still nylon coated, and is stronger than the standard Dubro or ??? 4-40 sized, or "Heavy-Duty" sized Pull-Pull cables.

Also, something else that might be a tip... Instead of running the cable through the eyes of the 4-40 threaded cleavas adapters, I got some quality ball-bearing swivels with rounded eyelets, and attached those to the ends of the cable, using the crimp ferrels to attach the cable. I then ran the other end of the swivel through the clevis adapter eye. This keeps the sharp edges of the eye from cutting into the cable. Seems to be holding up very well. I didn't solder anything this way.
 
Darin

Mark and I have a system like this we just use the 80lb wire. Never broke! And is very simple.

TL
 
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