A few glow plugs comparison @ 1.5V @ 2 amps

[dwilfong]

Dick are you going to call it "THE GIZMO" when you release it to the masses?

So what plug works the best with the gizmo?

Will it lite the plug with the most surface area so we can dump some prodigious amounts of nitro in the chamber.

 

[DickJones]

Dick are you going to call it "THE GIZMO" when you release it to the masses?

So what plug works the best with the gizmo?

Will it lite the plug with the most surface area so we can dump some prodigious amounts of nitro in the chamber.

David, by surface area, are U talking about the glow bee flat wound racing plugs, or the fox 1 coil racing plugs, or the Rossi # 9 bring your 12 volt battery to lite it off plug. Stop and think about this, what is the usual way U heat the combustion chamber up to make some RPM's U have to "take the fuel away to get the combustion chamber and the glow plug up to temperature. So U are taking away the fuel and at the same time U want to "dump some prodigious amounts of nitro in the chamber. My Gizmo will keep the glow plug lite at a constant temperature about 250 deg. below the wire failure all the time no matter how much fuel U throw in the combustion chamber. I have tested a select group of plugs by connecting them to the Gizmo and putting them in a jar of water, for up to 30 minutes, to see if the wire temp stays within the the same temp parameters out of the water. That was one of the fist things I spent so much time on, because if a lot of fuel, such as super rich, decreased the heat temp in the coils, I would not have continued any further in my research.

Moby

 

[shoboat]

Guys,

Simple Gizmo is a 2/3 AA 1500 mah elite battery hooked up to a simple wire harness.

A stake-on for the negative end of the battery to the engine mount for a ground wire.

The positive goes to the top of the plug with a roach clip from Radio Shack. Keep your

Needle rich and burn nitro with the correct loaded propeller. Lean ruins your engine bearings.

Have Fun And Keep Testing,

Mark Sholund

 

[Andy Brown]

So if the Gizmo keeps the plug at melting point minus 250 at all times, how will the engine idle on the beach?

Most of us idle by dumping in more fuel ( no low end needle).

If the gizmo is constantly adding power to the plug it will burn the extra fuel mass that we are normally using to cool and therefore retard the plug to get a slow engine speed.

 

[Tim_Duggan]

Interesting take on it Andy. I hope I'm not speaking out of place here but I think the point is by using a considerably colder plug in conjunction with the input current, the plug acts hotter than it really is. So essentially it would idle the same as if you put a hot plug in like a 59 without the gizmo, albeit without the fragile plug element.

I would be interested to know if the barrel open position for idle can be set lower on a non low end needle carb.

 

[dwilfong]

Will it keep a Rossi 9 lit with gobs of nitro in the chamber?

Stop beating around the bush the birds are already flush out.

So how long do we idle a minute on the bench?

Is it that critical if it runs a little lean on the bench?

 

[Jack ODonnell]

David you are wright,there is a lot of beating around the bush. J.

 

[Elias Vazquez]

You all should know dick by now, he loves the suspense.

 

[dwilfong]

He is as bad as the girl next store when I was 13 at the summer house at the Jersey shore. LOL

 

[Ray Sametz]

He is as bad as the girl next store when I was 13 at the summer house at the Jersey shore. LOL

Dave that's a whole different story. If glow plugs had the power of the p***y they would never burn out.

 

[moparbarn]

He is as bad as the girl next store when I was 13 at the summer house at the Jersey shore. LOL

Dave that's a whole different story. If glow plugs had the power of the p***y they would never burn out.

Yeah, & they would cost a heck of a lot more too!

 

[dwilfong]

NO it just gets old and vindictive and dose not work any more.

Same as a plug HA HA HA HA

Come on Dick are hopes and dreams are riding on this.

 

[moparbarn]

Still costs more, even when it doesn't work any more.

 

[BobBonahoom]

So Dick, how is the Gizmo any different than something like a Radio South plug driver? (Obviously the Gizmo must be smaller, etc.). When you flood the plug, the Radio South unit simply increases the pulse width of the modulated output to burn off the extra fuel. In other words, it is trying to keep a constant temperature at the coil by sensing the coil's resistance, which correlates to its temperature.

Here is what Radio South says about it. Notice the last sentance:

RECOMMENDED FIELD PROCEDURES: Before trying to start the engine, hook up the clip to a plug and push the switch on the Pro-Driver III to check the LED's for current draw. If no lights come on, you either have a bad connection on the plug, or the plug is blown. Each light that comes on indicates a .5 amp draw. Two lights equals 1 amp, three lights equals 1.5 amp, four lights equals 2 amp, and so on. After you get a reading, you can use this as a reference as to what your Pro-Driver III should normally show when you are starting your engine EQUIPPED WITH THE SAME PLUG. If the meter shows a higher current reading, the engine is flooded and the Pro-Driver III is boosting the power to the plug to "burn out" the extra fuel. Each time the switch is pushed the Pro-Driver III will stay on for one minute.

 

[BobBonahoom]

Here is an excerpt about a Neslon product called the "Nelson Advanced Glow Switch"

"The Advanced Glow Switch, also called a Glow Driver, has a miniature processor that senses when the glow plug has cooled to a point that can cause the engine to quit. At this point, power is applied to the glow plug to warm it up and keep the engine running properly. The battery power is shut off as soon as the glow plug warms up. As the glow plug cools down, the battery power is reapplied. This process is automatically repeated as necessary."

See: http://www.nelsonhobby.com/advanced_glow_switch.php

 

[Tom Foley]

Still costs more, even when it doesn't work any more.

:lol:

 

[DickJones]

So if the Gizmo keeps the plug at melting point minus 250 at all times, how will the engine idle on the beach?

Most of us idle by dumping in more fuel ( no low end needle).

If the gizmo is constantly adding power to the plug it will burn the extra fuel mass that we are normally using to cool and therefore retard the plug to get a slow engine speed.

Andy

I tested by setting the starting idle on test engine with a normal rich idle using a hot shot igniter, after starting the engine I connected the OBI system to the glow plug and verified the immediate jump in RPM's, usually between 900 to 1500 RPM's, depending on the idle speed, at no time during the testing did the engine go into a lean condition, as I believe most boaters start there engines in a rich setting, via third or on board needle and somewhere around half throttle, there is a bunch of fuel being drawn into the engine until the boat gets launched and begins the leaning process. Evan after launch at full throttle, until we start leaning the mixture down, the combustion chamber remains in a rich to slight rich mixture, the glow plug has already been brought to the max temp from the time it is connected to the glow plug.

Moby

 

[DickJones]

So Dick, how is the Gizmo any different than something like a Radio South plug driver? (Obviously the Gizmo must be smaller, etc.). When you flood the plug, the Radio South unit simply increases the pulse width of the modulated output to burn off the extra fuel. In other words, it is trying to keep a constant temperature at the coil by sensing the coil's resistance, which correlates to its temperature.

Here is what Radio South says about it. Notice the last sentance:

RECOMMENDED FIELD PROCEDURES: Before trying to start the engine, hook up the clip to a plug and push the switch on the Pro-Driver III to check the LED's for current draw. If no lights come on, you either have a bad connection on the plug, or the plug is blown. Each light that comes on indicates a .5 amp draw. Two lights equals 1 amp, three lights equals 1.5 amp, four lights equals 2 amp, and so on. After you get a reading, you can use this as a reference as to what your Pro-Driver III should normally show when you are starting your engine EQUIPPED WITH THE SAME PLUG. If the meter shows a higher current reading, the engine is flooded and the Pro-Driver III is boosting the power to the plug to "burn out" the extra fuel. Each time the switch is pushed the Pro-Driver III will stay on for one minute.

Bob

Really not comparable, my system is deigned as an on board ignition system, is capable of a lot more total watts which is what is needed to keep the plug at a certain temperature while it is being sprayed with raw fuel.

Moby

 

[BobBonahoom]

So Dick, how is the Gizmo any different than something like a Radio South plug driver? (Obviously the Gizmo must be smaller, etc.). When you flood the plug, the Radio South unit simply increases the pulse width of the modulated output to burn off the extra fuel. In other words, it is trying to keep a constant temperature at the coil by sensing the coil's resistance, which correlates to its temperature.

Here is what Radio South says about it. Notice the last sentance:

RECOMMENDED FIELD PROCEDURES: Before trying to start the engine, hook up the clip to a plug and push the switch on the Pro-Driver III to check the LED's for current draw. If no lights come on, you either have a bad connection on the plug, or the plug is blown. Each light that comes on indicates a .5 amp draw. Two lights equals 1 amp, three lights equals 1.5 amp, four lights equals 2 amp, and so on. After you get a reading, you can use this as a reference as to what your Pro-Driver III should normally show when you are starting your engine EQUIPPED WITH THE SAME PLUG. If the meter shows a higher current reading, the engine is flooded and the Pro-Driver III is boosting the power to the plug to "burn out" the extra fuel. Each time the switch is pushed the Pro-Driver III will stay on for one minute.

Bob

Really not comparable, my system is deigned as an on board ignition system, is capable of a lot more total watts which is what is needed to keep the plug at a certain temperature while it is being sprayed with raw fuel.

Moby

Dick,

Will you be selling these? If so, when will we hear the details?

 

[DickJones]

So Dick, how is the Gizmo any different than something like a Radio South plug driver? (Obviously the Gizmo must be smaller, etc.). When you flood the plug, the Radio South unit simply increases the pulse width of the modulated output to burn off the extra fuel. In other words, it is trying to keep a constant temperature at the coil by sensing the coil's resistance, which correlates to its temperature.

Here is what Radio South says about it. Notice the last sentance:

RECOMMENDED FIELD PROCEDURES: Before trying to start the engine, hook up the clip to a plug and push the switch on the Pro-Driver III to check the LED's for current draw. If no lights come on, you either have a bad connection on the plug, or the plug is blown. Each light that comes on indicates a .5 amp draw. Two lights equals 1 amp, three lights equals 1.5 amp, four lights equals 2 amp, and so on. After you get a reading, you can use this as a reference as to what your Pro-Driver III should normally show when you are starting your engine EQUIPPED WITH THE SAME PLUG. If the meter shows a higher current reading, the engine is flooded and the Pro-Driver III is boosting the power to the plug to "burn out" the extra fuel. Each time the switch is pushed the Pro-Driver III will stay on for one minute.

Bob

Really not comparable, my system is deigned as an on board ignition system, is capable of a lot more total watts which is what is needed to keep the plug at a certain temperature while it is being sprayed with raw fuel.

Moby

Dick,

Will you be selling these? If so, when will we hear the details?

Bob, When I started putting together all my glow plug testing data numbers, and then understood what was happening with the current different glow plugs we use as far as temps and longevity, that is when I decided to design and build the OBI with the intention to market these units to the general public. After going thru 3 different board revisions to add all the features I wanted to have available, I built 3 test boards, 2 of which I tested and tested, in different boats to make sure the units did not have any defects in them and could with stand back to back heavy usage with out any failures. I already have the drawing done to miniaturize the board down to a much smaller size with all the components and the I, O terminals and potted, the final board size is 2 X 2 1/4 X .440 plus the lipo battery.

So that was my intention when I started, however my health has deteriorated so much in the last 7 months, that I have to reevaluate what I am going to do at this time. I would have to order a minimum of 100 of the new commercial miniature boards, and then if something would happen where I could not continue to market and ship the product, it would fall on my wife to try to figure out what to do with the product that is left.

BTW, the boards are designed to take those colder to medium plugs, that are built stronger with bigger wire diameter and a different numbers of coils, U know the plugs not many boaters are using because they can not get the colder/medium plug to burn the fuel efficiently and to make good heat in the combustion chamber, when these plugs are connected to the OBI, they lite up like a lite bulb and stay like that even when dropped in a container of water.