8S power on a .78wire

[MrHammerHead]

Yep, typo, but I fixed it.

I'm not too big on fishing but my oldest son likes to. We have a lake right by our house and one day he says to me with fishing pole in hand " hey dad be back in five minutes with a bass" I said, yeah ok.

About 4 minutes later he walks back up with a 2 pounder! I couldn't beleive it! They don't bite like that all the time but he seems to catch some almost everytime he goes.

Chris

 

[hugh hargett]

Chris do you have a link for your builds?

 

[MrHammerHead]

No, I didn't do any kind of build thread, sorry

Chris

 

[hugh hargett]

Do you run huey cable?

 

[MrHammerHead]

Yes I run Hughey cables.

Chris

 

[hugh hargett]

Chris I plan to run 1/4 cable in the jae .90 but heres a shot of the .078 wire for the 40 inch mono: I have run on 6s without any problem. So I will try 8s and see how it holds up.

I use a collet and drill bit to line up my driveline with the motor: but back at the bend a let the stuffing tube guide the wire as that releases side load on the bearings. Just my method that has woreked for me.

 

[hugh hargett]

I was also thinking that if bad harmonics from the wire were really a problem.... resonating frequencies could be dealt with many ways. One; would be to wrap the stuffing tube with dynamat. You could also dynamat the tub of the boat. YES it would add weight, which is especially fine if you use light build materialsfrom the onstart .CF,balsa,luan, watever,but you would have a virtually dead hull putting power and efficiency back into the system.It would definately help with stress cracks in the hull.You could even use the mat with foam and eliminate needing floatation . Everything nice and clean.

 

[MrHammerHead]

I was also thinking that if bad harmonics from the wire were really a problem.... resonating frequencies could be dealt with many ways. One; would be to wrap the stuffing tube with dynamat. You could also dynamat the tub of the boat. YES it would add weight, which is especially fine if you use light build materialsfrom the onstart .CF,balsa,luan, watever,but you would have a virtually dead hull putting power and efficiency back into the system.It would definately help with stress cracks in the hull.You could even use the mat with foam and eliminate needing floatation . Everything nice and clean.

That's an interesting idea. It would definitley deaden the harmononics going in to the hull which can only be a good thing. Like the guys on another thread said though, make sure you have a slight bend in the wire to keep the whip down and hopefully the bad harmonics too. Any whipping of the wire is just going to cause unwanted drag in the system and is not good for your motor either.

Chris

 

[hugh hargett]

.

Chris, I know you cant give all your secrets away, but to see your boat close up would be nice. please consider.

 

[MrHammerHead]

Wire in my prather: .

Chris, I know you cant give all your secrets away, but to see your boat close up would be nice. please consider.

No problem, once I get it rebuilt from the crash in Valdosta.

Chris

 

[hugh hargett]

I did decide to try Charles's 3 bearings in my strut. It really does do away with alot of end play and sounds smooth. I have no problem trying someone elses suggestions to see if it runs better. I had to ream out the strut to take a 7/16 od tubing then I put the 3/8 by 3/16 sealed bearings. Would be nice to see unloaded rpms with the different set-ups to truly see what would be the best combnation support and rpm; bearings,bushings,or brass. I have a finlay hydro with a wire built to his plans and it has a stuffing tube just bigger than the wires od. With a light oiling I havent had any issues with bad vibes or drag. Just a thought Ive considered while experimenting with wires.

Charles I also went with the silver solder over the loctite

hugh

 

[hugh hargett]

Wonder has anyone run 2.5mm carbon rod for a wire?

 

[hugh hargett]

Update the solder let go then I realized that even though I used silver solder it had lead in it(soft). I redid it with lead free solder(harder) like you use on copper plumbing and it held.

 

[Jim Caldwell]

I use 45% silver from the welding shop on my flex cables haven't had one come loose ever.

 

[hugh hargett]

Yes Jim thats the high heat method I think everyones afraid of with wires. What I found is im just not getting a good joint down in the bore. The octura bored stubs are full of oil and filings new out the bag. I havent found a fool proof way of properly prepping the surfaces. I used flux but it doesnt seem to help. The thru hole set screw lock method is the only way wires have been reliable for me. I went back to it after 3 outings that equaled up to 15 sec on the water due to the wire joint letting go. I was so pissed with it I was tempted to pull my flex out of my scale so I could simply run my boat. Then I said okay I just go back to wat worked for me. In my bigger mono Im starting to see Chris's point big time. I assume as you say that fellas that use solder must have a good grade of solder and a good method for cleaning out the bores. It seems on my mono; I just cant get the job done.

How it supposed to be done:

I cannot find a ferrule wire prop shaft like that.

 

[hugh hargett]

hera an article on the bearing debate: http://www.fastelectrics.net/drives.php

 

[hugh hargett]

Solder joint still let go so until I get some 603 or wire prepped by Jeff or Ben Ill go back to the .187 flex cable. Had to put the T-600 in coz I need a 5mm/.187 collet for the 1717 but until then I can get some reliable runs in. definately putting the 1717 back in once I get a collet?

 

[hugh hargett]

After all the reading it seems a naked wire would be the best way with a bearing in the shaft log inside the hull and brass or olite bearings in the strut.