20 MONO (2 ?)

[julianconde]

yes microburst boats are a very good choice also and they handle pretty good they where in ATL and there boars where fast..

julian

 

[Tim Kish]

Speedmaster , Orlic enhanced Nova and an OPS 3280 pipe are a deadly combo in the right hands.

Tim K

 

[Hammerhead]

In my opinion, in heat racing, consistency is the ticket. If you want a boat that wont hook up coming out of the corners, buy something other than a Seaducer. I'm not knocking them. They are extremely nice boats, but they are difficult to drive if you don't have them set up exactly right. If anything is off, they have a nasty habit of hooking to the right. You will cut buoys and that will cost you the heat. If you want a no brainer fast reliable consistent boat that will win heat after heat, get an AC Model's Wave Slave. If you want a rocket that is controllable, get a speedmaster. I was on the Kyosho team running the Kyosho FMR with Hamazaki in Japan for 2 years between 2003-2004. The boat was basically a bath tub toy until we got our hands on it and re-worked the hull. It is an extremely fast boat, but it never did well in heats because it was too light. It did on the other hand win many 400m 4 lap time trial competitions. I think if Roger, hadn't nailed the start in that video, he may have had problems finishing the heat. And, Yes! they were too expensive to be competitive in the A-Mono market. That is why you probably rarely see them. But contrary to what Roger said, they ARE still available at quicktech hobby for $599 http://www.quicktechhobby.com/Boat/Kyosho/kyosho_boats.htm

 

[brandonclan]

So... folks.... what can I expect from a twincraft .21 hull....anyone run one? Mine has a new CMB valvola redhead with a mac pipe, surface drive. Hull has tabs and fins.

And what would be a good prop to start with...x437-x440...am I close?? Also what length pipe are peiople running with these valvolas? I'm at 8.4 to start?

Thanks for any info.....

Going to try and have my 8yr. old run it, and I might try it too!

 

[shoboat]

Dan,

8" on the pipe length and a 40 x 52/3 would be a great starting

propeller set up. It should be good to go.

Thanks,

Mark Sholund

 

[brandonclan]

Dan,

8" on the pipe length and a 40 x 52/3 would be a great starting

propeller set up. It should be good to go.

Thanks,

Mark Sholund

Thanks Mark,

I'll see what I have....I might need one of these next weekend in Saginaw, are you going? Do you have one already done up?

Dan

 

[LarryConrad]

So... folks.... what can I expect from a twincraft .21 hull....anyone run one? Mine has a new CMB valvola redhead with a mac pipe, surface drive. Hull has tabs and fins.

And what would be a good prop to start with...x437-x440...am I close?? Also what length pipe are peiople running with these valvolas? I'm at 8.4 to start?

Thanks for any info.....

Going to try and have my 8yr. old run it, and I might try it too!

I don't have any experience with the Twincraft hull, but my Speedmaster with an '06 Valvola / CMDI Fat Parabolic at 7 7/8" and a ABC 1614 Chopper was ballistic, running 60% nitro at 850ft above sea level.

 

[brandonclan]

Thanks guys....tested the boat today with an x437 3 blade and it ran great.

I'll try a couple differnt props once the engine is broken in. Right now it runs so good I don't want to mess with it.

The kid had a blast running it.......priceless.

 

[Joe Wiebelhaus]

Yep, One happy kid, glad it all worked out for Matt.

150.00 haha

 

[brandonclan]

Yep, One happy kid, glad it all worked out for Matt.

150.00 haha

Yep...he was happy on Monday....lets see how he does on Sunday!

Thanks to you, and alot of help from Bert, he's on the water!

 

[Roger Hooks Jr.]

In my opinion, in heat racing, consistency is the ticket. If you want a boat that wont hook up coming out of the corners, buy something other than a Seaducer. I'm not knocking them. They are extremely nice boats, but they are difficult to drive if you don't have them set up exactly right. If anything is off, they have a nasty habit of hooking to the right. You will cut buoys and that will cost you the heat. If you want a no brainer fast reliable consistent boat that will win heat after heat, get an AC Model's Wave Slave. If you want a rocket that is controllable, get a speedmaster. I was on the Kyosho team running the Kyosho FMR with Hamazaki in Japan for 2 years between 2003-2004. The boat was basically a bath tub toy until we got our hands on it and re-worked the hull. It is an extremely fast boat, but it never did well in heats because it was too light. It did on the other hand win many 400m 4 lap time trial competitions. I think if Roger, hadn't nailed the start in that video, he may have had problems finishing the heat. And, Yes! they were too expensive to be competitive in the A-Mono market. That is why you probably rarely see them. But contrary to what Roger said, they ARE still available at quicktech hobby for $599 http://www.quicktechhobby.com/Boat/Kyosho/kyosho_boats.htm

Fortunately, I have been in touch with Hamazaki just a tad bit more recently than 2004. As a matter of fact I've been in touch with Takashi Hamazaki, the designer of the boat, as well as Futoshi Ishihara and Joel Johnson VP of Kyosho Americauntil somewhat recently. Joel is the one that told me that they don't support that boat anymore.

It's good though that there is a dealer out there that is still carrying the boat. There are probably a few out there now that you mention it that found the boats hard to move at that price. When I talked to Hamazaki (not really talked but received email translation from Ishihara) he was working on the FMR III. Funny thing is that, he, the boat designer, was asking, me, advice on how to make his boat go faster for their nats coming up that Novemeber as he said that my boat in this video was faster than even his new boat.

As far as the boat not being able to deal with traffic. You might be right as it is not often that I don't nail the start. I do however, lap slow traffic on a regular basis with no problem but seeing that is mostly on the outside, I haven't really tested the boats ability to dice in and out of traffic. I will say that does seem to want to spin out on long sweeping turns but I have found that it stays screwed down when I take the corner aggressively. It might be because I have removed the turn fins in an attempt to gain some more speed by reducing drag. As far as the boat being too light, I think that is just set-up. I remember when I ran C-Hydro at 12 lbs back in the day of the old Wing Dings. But now I'm at 7 or 8. 4 pounds lighter and the boat handles even better. For the FMR II We machined and added trim tabs, added turn fins and rudder.

 

[Roger Hooks Jr.]

Here is the transcript with Futoshi Hamazaki after translation along with pictures of the new FMR III.

Thank you for your e-mail. I just got back from Tokyo Show.

I saw the video and amazed how fast it is.

It seems like it is going about 60mph.

I have Japanese nationals coming up and I have couple of questions. (November 7th and 8th)

It is quite long but I would like to explain how we race this in Japan .

We have two classes here.

One is to heat race with 6 boats in a 200meter oval course for 5laps. (should be same as IMPBA style)

Another one is a time attack style with just one boat. 100 meter oval course for 4 laps (400m race)

I am racing in both classes with the new S-III hull. This hull is not sold as a kit but sold as parts. (Pictures attached)

It is an updated bottom hull with new deck to make it stiffer and low center of gravity.

Our fastest in the heat race is at 72km/h and 77km/h at 400m race.

400m race is raced without waves of other boats so we can lighten the boat to 2300grams.

Heat races will be with waves from other boats so stability is more important, weight is at 3000grams and we are currently testing gear down as well.

I mount buggy wing to both boats. You do not see too many of these with boat races but was able to gain like 2km/h so I think the down force toward the water is giving a good effect. It is also giving higher stability.

Engines used in Japan is typically Nova Rossi and I use 35PLUS LC and 35PLUS2.

Fuel is NASA 65% Nitro

Props are X440/3 for 400m single race and X450/3 for heat races.

Prop cup is standard. Center of the prop is extended by 10mm from the keel line.

Tuned silencers (Exhaust) are both Kyosho. Plug to maximum diameter is at 205 to 210mm.

I was wondering what kind of equipments you are using in the states.

Whatever modifications, adjustments, setup tips will be highly appreciated.

Sorry for the long e-mail. I am searching how to go faster before the Japanese nationals…

Thank you for your time.

Hamazaki

 

[Hammerhead]

Here is the transcript with Futoshi Hamazaki after translation along with pictures of the new FMR III.

Thank you for your e-mail. I just got back from Tokyo Show.

I saw the video and amazed how fast it is.

It seems like it is going about 60mph.

I have Japanese nationals coming up and I have couple of questions. (November 7th and 8th)

It is quite long but I would like to explain how we race this in Japan .

We have two classes here.

One is to heat race with 6 boats in a 200meter oval course for 5laps. (should be same as IMPBA style)

Another one is a time attack style with just one boat. 100 meter oval course for 4 laps (400m race)

I am racing in both classes with the new S-III hull. This hull is not sold as a kit but sold as parts. (Pictures attached)

It is an updated bottom hull with new deck to make it stiffer and low center of gravity.

Our fastest in the heat race is at 72km/h and 77km/h at 400m race.

400m race is raced without waves of other boats so we can lighten the boat to 2300grams.

Heat races will be with waves from other boats so stability is more important, weight is at 3000grams and we are currently testing gear down as well.

I mount buggy wing to both boats. You do not see too many of these with boat races but was able to gain like 2km/h so I think the down force toward the water is giving a good effect. It is also giving higher stability.

Engines used in Japan is typically Nova Rossi and I use 35PLUS LC and 35PLUS2.

Fuel is NASA 65% Nitro

Props are X440/3 for 400m single race and X450/3 for heat races.

Prop cup is standard. Center of the prop is extended by 10mm from the keel line.

Tuned silencers (Exhaust) are both Kyosho. Plug to maximum diameter is at 205 to 210mm.

I was wondering what kind of equipments you are using in the states.

Whatever modifications, adjustments, setup tips will be highly appreciated.

Sorry for the long e-mail. I am searching how to go faster before the Japanese nationals…

Thank you for your time.

Hamazaki

You know Roger, When I worked with Hamazaki, I wasn't under the impression that he originally designed it. I thought that it was another completely different ABS plastic RTR boat AKA bath tub toy with a .32 heli engine coverted to marine use Chinese engine in it. Hamazaki was tasked with taking the original design and making it competitive. I was a member of the Sarugashima Radio Controlled Boat Club in Atsugi, Japan for 16 years. Beings that the main head quarters for Kyosho is in Atsugi-city, he came to us looking for help because he had little experience with RC boats on the competitive level. He first tried to get a guy named Michiyuki Enomoto, who was in our club to take it and re work the hull, because he was the most well known multi national championship trophy holder in our club. Michiyuki did dabble with it for a while, but he was more interested in advancing his own models.

In Japan, there are several districts just like the US for RC boats that are all sanctioned by the JMPBA. Unlike the States, to go to the Nationals, you have to either place in the top 3 out of 18 at the previous Nationals, or you have to place in the top 3 in your class at the district elimination races, usually held in July. Some of the smaller districts require that you win the elimination race. At Nationals in Japan, you are only allowed 1 class. At normal district events and at the eliminations, you are only allowed to race in 2 classes. Now that I got that explanation out of the way, I can tell you, that Hamazaki ended up having to take over where Michiyuki left off and compete himself, with going to the Nationals being his main objective. At this time in 2003 I was heavy into A-Hydro and A-Mono. At the elimination race for Eastern Japan, I won A-mono with my Wave Slave, so I earned a seat at the Nationals, but Hamazaki didn't. He had with Michiyuki's help, made some progress with the boat, but it just wasn't quite race ready. After the National Seats were awarded, he came to me and asked me to run the boat at the 2003 Nationals. He offered me full support, any hardware, engine, and engine mods I wanted. He said that after we got the bugs worked out of the hull on the original design, he would also give me the first production boat in carbon fiber. I was like a kid in a candy store so I accepted his offer. From that point, we had six weeks to get it going before the Nationals in September. First of all, I stripped off all the stock hardware. I replaced it with a mixture of aeromarine, trk, and seaducer stuff. I forget what it's called, but all the stock hardware was made out of that black fiber plastic. Even the rudder was made of it. The biggest problem with it, was it would get up on its side for seemingly no reason and barrel off in the opposite direction that you were steering. It was very scary at speed. I found that the starboard side of the hull had a huge hook in it. I filled it in with coat after coat of GEL Coat and block sanded it 'til it was perfectly straight. This cured the run away characteristic completely. I then ordered a REX long stroke and I think Hamazaki had one of the RC Car engineers at Kyosho do some port work on it. It was a hot but dependable engine. I used a 1450/3. It was noticeably faster than my Wave Slave. Thinking it was ready to go, we were off to the Nationals. There are 3 heats of 6 boats and 4 rounds per class. I nailed the start, and won my first heat easily. The second and third heat, I flipped in traffic, and I nailed the start in the last heat and easily won that one as well. It seemed like no matter what I did, if I didn't nail the start, I would flip or blow over as soon as I tried to put pressure on the boats in front of me. I did get a carbon fiber version and a lot of other free stuff, but I ended up giving it all away to someone else in our club before I moved back to the states after the nationals in 2004. I did hear that Hamazaki had some success with it in the 400m 4 lap time trials later on. Because of its lack of popularity in heat racing; even in Japan, I always thought of it as a dead horse for heat racing. It is good to hear that Hamazaki is still beating it.

 

[Roger Hooks Jr.]

Here is the transcript with Futoshi Hamazaki after translation along with pictures of the new FMR III.

Thank you for your e-mail. I just got back from Tokyo Show.

I saw the video and amazed how fast it is.

It seems like it is going about 60mph.

I have Japanese nationals coming up and I have couple of questions. (November 7th and 8th)

It is quite long but I would like to explain how we race this in Japan .

We have two classes here.

One is to heat race with 6 boats in a 200meter oval course for 5laps. (should be same as IMPBA style)

Another one is a time attack style with just one boat. 100 meter oval course for 4 laps (400m race)

I am racing in both classes with the new S-III hull. This hull is not sold as a kit but sold as parts. (Pictures attached)

It is an updated bottom hull with new deck to make it stiffer and low center of gravity.

Our fastest in the heat race is at 72km/h and 77km/h at 400m race.

400m race is raced without waves of other boats so we can lighten the boat to 2300grams.

Heat races will be with waves from other boats so stability is more important, weight is at 3000grams and we are currently testing gear down as well.

I mount buggy wing to both boats. You do not see too many of these with boat races but was able to gain like 2km/h so I think the down force toward the water is giving a good effect. It is also giving higher stability.

Engines used in Japan is typically Nova Rossi and I use 35PLUS LC and 35PLUS2.

Fuel is NASA 65% Nitro

Props are X440/3 for 400m single race and X450/3 for heat races.

Prop cup is standard. Center of the prop is extended by 10mm from the keel line.

Tuned silencers (Exhaust) are both Kyosho. Plug to maximum diameter is at 205 to 210mm.

I was wondering what kind of equipments you are using in the states.

Whatever modifications, adjustments, setup tips will be highly appreciated.

Sorry for the long e-mail. I am searching how to go faster before the Japanese nationals…

Thank you for your time.

Hamazaki

You know Roger, When I worked with Hamazaki, I wasn't under the impression that he originally designed it. I thought that it was another completely different ABS plastic RTR boat AKA bath tub toy with a .32 heli engine coverted to marine use Chinese engine in it. Hamazaki was tasked with taking the original design and making it competitive. I was a member of the Sarugashima Radio Controlled Boat Club in Atsugi, Japan for 16 years. Beings that the main head quarters for Kyosho is in Atsugi-city, he came to us looking for help because he had little experience with RC boats on the competitive level. He first tried to get a guy named Michiyuki Enomoto, who was in our club to take it and re work the hull, because he was the most well known multi national championship trophy holder in our club. Michiyuki did dabble with it for a while, but he was more interested in advancing his own models.

In Japan, there are several districts just like the US for RC boats that are all sanctioned by the JMPBA. Unlike the States, to go to the Nationals, you have to either place in the top 3 out of 18 at the previous Nationals, or you have to place in the top 3 in your class at the district elimination races, usually held in July. Some of the smaller districts require that you win the elimination race. At Nationals in Japan, you are only allowed 1 class. At normal district events and at the eliminations, you are only allowed to race in 2 classes. Now that I got that explanation out of the way, I can tell you, that Hamazaki ended up having to take over where Michiyuki left off and compete himself, with going to the Nationals being his main objective. At this time in 2003 I was heavy into A-Hydro and A-Mono. At the elimination race for Eastern Japan, I won A-mono with my Wave Slave, so I earned a seat at the Nationals, but Hamazaki didn't. He had with Michiyuki's help, made some progress with the boat, but it just wasn't quite race ready. After the National Seats were awarded, he came to me and asked me to run the boat at the 2003 Nationals. He offered me full support, any hardware, engine, and engine mods I wanted. He said that after we got the bugs worked out of the hull on the original design, he would also give me the first production boat in carbon fiber. I was like a kid in a candy store so I accepted his offer. From that point, we had six weeks to get it going before the Nationals in September. First of all, I stripped off all the stock hardware. I replaced it with a mixture of aeromarine, trk, and seaducer stuff. I forget what it's called, but all the stock hardware was made out of that black fiber plastic. Even the rudder was made of it. The biggest problem with it, was it would get up on its side for seemingly no reason and barrel off in the opposite direction that you were steering. It was very scary at speed. I found that the starboard side of the hull had a huge hook in it. I filled it in with coat after coat of GEL Coat and block sanded it 'til it was perfectly straight. This cured the run away characteristic completely. I then ordered a REX long stroke and I think Hamazaki had one of the RC Car engineers at Kyosho do some port work on it. It was a hot but dependable engine. I used a 1450/3. It was noticeably faster than my Wave Slave. Thinking it was ready to go, we were off to the Nationals. There are 3 heats of 6 boats and 4 rounds per class. I nailed the start, and won my first heat easily. The second and third heat, I flipped in traffic, and I nailed the start in the last heat and easily won that one as well. It seemed like no matter what I did, if I didn't nail the start, I would flip or blow over as soon as I tried to put pressure on the boats in front of me. I did get a carbon fiber version and a lot of other free stuff, but I ended up giving it all away to someone else in our club before I moved back to the states after the nationals in 2004. I did hear that Hamazaki had some success with it in the 400m 4 lap time trials later on. Because of its lack of popularity in heat racing; even in Japan, I always thought of it as a dead horse for heat racing. It is good to hear that Hamazaki is still beating it.

Wow wished I would have talke to you much, much sooner. I was wondering about that flip barrel role problem. Your right it was scary but the trim tabs solved the problem for us. We still have that fiber plastic strut amazingly enough. LOL!. I tried to keep the orginal hardware as long as possible but one by one we placed one thing after another. I got the impression that Hamazake was the designer because when we had our email pow wow and I asked if I could introduction of who everyone was that is what I was told that last I heard from Hamazake was November of 2009. I just emailed support at Kyosho and they confirmed and said they no longer support the FMR. As you can see now though the boat is a contender with the hook in the bottom and all.

 

[Hammerhead]

Here is the transcript with Futoshi Hamazaki after translation along with pictures of the new FMR III.

Thank you for your e-mail. I just got back from Tokyo Show.

I saw the video and amazed how fast it is.

It seems like it is going about 60mph.

I have Japanese nationals coming up and I have couple of questions. (November 7th and 8th)

It is quite long but I would like to explain how we race this in Japan .

We have two classes here.

One is to heat race with 6 boats in a 200meter oval course for 5laps. (should be same as IMPBA style)

Another one is a time attack style with just one boat. 100 meter oval course for 4 laps (400m race)

I am racing in both classes with the new S-III hull. This hull is not sold as a kit but sold as parts. (Pictures attached)

It is an updated bottom hull with new deck to make it stiffer and low center of gravity.

Our fastest in the heat race is at 72km/h and 77km/h at 400m race.

400m race is raced without waves of other boats so we can lighten the boat to 2300grams.

Heat races will be with waves from other boats so stability is more important, weight is at 3000grams and we are currently testing gear down as well.

I mount buggy wing to both boats. You do not see too many of these with boat races but was able to gain like 2km/h so I think the down force toward the water is giving a good effect. It is also giving higher stability.

Engines used in Japan is typically Nova Rossi and I use 35PLUS LC and 35PLUS2.

Fuel is NASA 65% Nitro

Props are X440/3 for 400m single race and X450/3 for heat races.

Prop cup is standard. Center of the prop is extended by 10mm from the keel line.

Tuned silencers (Exhaust) are both Kyosho. Plug to maximum diameter is at 205 to 210mm.

I was wondering what kind of equipments you are using in the states.

Whatever modifications, adjustments, setup tips will be highly appreciated.

Sorry for the long e-mail. I am searching how to go faster before the Japanese nationals…

Thank you for your time.

Hamazaki

You know Roger, When I worked with Hamazaki, I wasn't under the impression that he originally designed it. I thought that it was another completely different ABS plastic RTR boat AKA bath tub toy with a .32 heli engine coverted to marine use Chinese engine in it. Hamazaki was tasked with taking the original design and making it competitive. I was a member of the Sarugashima Radio Controlled Boat Club in Atsugi, Japan for 16 years. Beings that the main head quarters for Kyosho is in Atsugi-city, he came to us looking for help because he had little experience with RC boats on the competitive level. He first tried to get a guy named Michiyuki Enomoto, who was in our club to take it and re work the hull, because he was the most well known multi national championship trophy holder in our club. Michiyuki did dabble with it for a while, but he was more interested in advancing his own models.

In Japan, there are several districts just like the US for RC boats that are all sanctioned by the JMPBA. Unlike the States, to go to the Nationals, you have to either place in the top 3 out of 18 at the previous Nationals, or you have to place in the top 3 in your class at the district elimination races, usually held in July. Some of the smaller districts require that you win the elimination race. At Nationals in Japan, you are only allowed 1 class. At normal district events and at the eliminations, you are only allowed to race in 2 classes. Now that I got that explanation out of the way, I can tell you, that Hamazaki ended up having to take over where Michiyuki left off and compete himself, with going to the Nationals being his main objective. At this time in 2003 I was heavy into A-Hydro and A-Mono. At the elimination race for Eastern Japan, I won A-mono with my Wave Slave, so I earned a seat at the Nationals, but Hamazaki didn't. He had with Michiyuki's help, made some progress with the boat, but it just wasn't quite race ready. After the National Seats were awarded, he came to me and asked me to run the boat at the 2003 Nationals. He offered me full support, any hardware, engine, and engine mods I wanted. He said that after we got the bugs worked out of the hull on the original design, he would also give me the first production boat in carbon fiber. I was like a kid in a candy store so I accepted his offer. From that point, we had six weeks to get it going before the Nationals in September. First of all, I stripped off all the stock hardware. I replaced it with a mixture of aeromarine, trk, and seaducer stuff. I forget what it's called, but all the stock hardware was made out of that black fiber plastic. Even the rudder was made of it. The biggest problem with it, was it would get up on its side for seemingly no reason and barrel off in the opposite direction that you were steering. It was very scary at speed. I found that the starboard side of the hull had a huge hook in it. I filled it in with coat after coat of GEL Coat and block sanded it 'til it was perfectly straight. This cured the run away characteristic completely. I then ordered a REX long stroke and I think Hamazaki had one of the RC Car engineers at Kyosho do some port work on it. It was a hot but dependable engine. I used a 1450/3. It was noticeably faster than my Wave Slave. Thinking it was ready to go, we were off to the Nationals. There are 3 heats of 6 boats and 4 rounds per class. I nailed the start, and won my first heat easily. The second and third heat, I flipped in traffic, and I nailed the start in the last heat and easily won that one as well. It seemed like no matter what I did, if I didn't nail the start, I would flip or blow over as soon as I tried to put pressure on the boats in front of me. I did get a carbon fiber version and a lot of other free stuff, but I ended up giving it all away to someone else in our club before I moved back to the states after the nationals in 2004. I did hear that Hamazaki had some success with it in the 400m 4 lap time trials later on. Because of its lack of popularity in heat racing; even in Japan, I always thought of it as a dead horse for heat racing. It is good to hear that Hamazaki is still beating it.

Wow wished I would have talke to you much, much sooner. I was wondering about that flip barrel role problem. Your right it was scary but the trim tabs solved the problem for us. We still have that fiber plastic strut amazingly enough. LOL!. I tried to keep the orginal hardware as long as possible but one by one we placed one thing after another. I got the impression that Hamazake was the designer because when we had our email pow wow and I asked if I could introduction of who everyone was that is what I was told that last I heard from Hamazake was November of 2009. I just emailed support at Kyosho and they confirmed and said they no longer support the FMR. As you can see now though the boat is a contender with the hook in the bottom and all.

Small world Roger! By the way! I love your paint jobs!