.12 sport hydro

[P THOMAS]

Gooeycheese got me interested in this, lets work to set up a good design. probally some good electric hulls or plans out there to be used. This project could be good for the small .12-18 motors or electric racing too.

Paul was talking about a 26"x13" size hull.

Keeping the weight down will be the challenge, what size props will work? smaller cable drives and 1/8th prop shafts?

What lighter hardware struts and rudders would be good?

I think I will get one of the novirossi .12 and give this a go too. What other motors would be usable?

Gooey, we can get together next year and race.

Then there is the new UL1 electric that may go with a .12 power too. It has a 4lb rtr weight with electric.

 

[Dan Hydro]

Sounds like a nice plan Phil.

the .12 Novarossi is a nice powerplant.

you can always use a .150 flex cable step up to a 3/16 stub shaft, that way we get a wider prop choice to play with.

I can see the SSP 12/18 coming.

Dan.

 

[gooycheese]

Phil,

I am probably gonna use the same strut I use on my A hydro which is a Hughey and rudder I'm working on that still. I was thinking maybe a speedmaster mini cause I need the water pickup, or a aquacraft off the sv27 cut down and maybe a Vegas strut. The problem with these bigger struts for me is size, I don't want any of the stuff inside the boat coming out the top (you will see no engine or strut or pipe looking at the top, and strut will be mount thru the bottom). The Prop I was gonna try first would be a worked 1435 I will use a 3/16 propshaft, and maybe 3/16 shaft I haven't got that far in my decisions or my current .125 to 3/16 propshaft ( I have considered making this little sport boat with the option of dropping a .21 engine in it for SAW ............. give David a run for his money lol). I will not be happy unless I am 3lbs dry or less when done, if I can get the hull around 1lb or so I figure I can meet that goal. You have a great advantage over me, you know sport boats I don't I am a first time builder of this type boat ( principals are a main issue with me, I'm trying to carry rigger principals over to the sport boat). Ohhhh yeah if you make a .12 also Phil there will be 3 in our district, Chuck Geisen is also making one and he is further along than I am. I have thought about maybe using the small octura hardware also, just an idea.

Its good to here you are gonna give this a go Phil

Thank You,

Paul

 

[Glenn Quarles]

Phil, it is good to see you interested in the Sport 12's. I have the proposal written up for the next IMPBA BOD meeting.

My sport .12 weights right at 2 lbs RTR and I use (and sell) the Speed Master mini rudder, a Fuller strut with ball bearings, a Hughey .125 cable (.125 stub shaft) and a X632 or X637.

We have a couple of guys around here wanting to start racing the class and are looking at the new Dark Horse pickle fork. Yeah a SSP .12 would be cool!

Glenn

 

[anthony_marquart]

I use a .15 cable, 3/16 stub, a 215 prop wold be good for a sport hydro I think. Most of the " on road" .12's work pretty good in boats. I've run Picco, RalMicron and OS .12s and they have all worked well. A small water cooled head is easy to make.

I built a Findlay Atlas van lines and put a .12 in it.. It's one of the boats I miss most! That would be a good place to start on dimensions,...

If there is going to be a SSP12 I want on the list right now! I'll be happy to help test them is you like. I can take a whole engine through prop setup from one of my .12s and pop it in there. The newer .12 motors run better than you expect without any mods at all. Before I hit a park bench I found alot of speed with a new boat design and a stock motor.

(that boats in re-hab now)

Gooeycheese got me interested in this, lets work to set up a good design. probally some good electric hulls or plans out there to be used. This project could be good for the small .12-18 motors or electric racing too. Paul was talking about a 26"x13" size hull.

Keeping the weight down will be the challenge, what size props will work? smaller cable drives and 1/8th prop shafts?

What lighter hardware struts and rudders would be good?

I think I will get one of the novirossi .12 and give this a go too. What other motors would be usable?

Gooey, we can get together next year and race.

Then there is the new UL1 electric that may go with a .12 power too. It has a 4lb rtr weight with electric.

 

[Mark Bullard]

Here you go guys. A scaled down verison of my SST 21 boat. A little 1/16 and 1/32 ply and foam and bingo a Sport 12 boat. If you can print the profiles in full scale or in parts then you can use them for the cutting profiles. I do this all the time on one shot drawings I have a plotter that I can plot on paper to full size or in parts. I have been drawing boats on Autocad for over 20 years and maybe the first one to do it.

The tub should be about 4". The tunnels on each side should be about 2". The sponson should be about 2.5" at the top and a 1.5" ride pad. Make the tub profiles out of doubled 1/8" lite ply. The inside, outside tunnel plate and the sponson plate out of 1/16" ply. Notice the holes in the plates. This is for the lineup rods. Arrow shafts work very well for this. All outside sheeting should be done with 1/32" ply.

By the way this only took me about 15 minutes to change and post the drawing. Is that quick enough?

 

[P THOMAS]

Phil, it is good to see you interested in the Sport 12's. I have the proposal written up for the next IMPBA BOD meeting.
My sport .12 weights right at 2 lbs RTR and I use (and sell) the Speed Master mini rudder, a Fuller strut with ball bearings, a Hughey .125 cable (.125 stub shaft) and a X632 or X637.

We have a couple of guys around here wanting to start racing the class and are looking at the new Dark Horse pickle fork. Yeah a SSP .12 would be cool!

Glenn

Brian b makes the dark horse hydro? what kind of construction is that, epoxy? weight?

you know if I get a good wood one running I would have to make a epoxyglass one too.

Something like a UL hydro looks.

 

[P THOMAS]

Here you go guys. A scaled down verison of my SST 21 boat. A little 1/16 and 1/32 ply and foam and bingo a Sport 12 boat. If you can print the profiles in full scale or in parts then you can use them for the cutting profiles. I do this all the time on one shot drawings I have a plotter that I can plot on paper to full size or in parts. I have been drawing boats on Autocad for over 20 years and maybe the first one to do it.The tub should be about 4". The tunnels on each side should be about 2". The sponson should be about 2.5" at the top and a 1.5" ride pad. Make the tub profiles out of doubled 1/8" lite ply. The inside, outside tunnel plate and the sponson plate out of 1/16" ply. Notice the holes in the plates. This is for the lineup rods. Arrow shafts work very well for this. All outside sheeting should be done with 1/32" ply.

By the way this only took me about 15 minutes to change and post the drawing. Is that quick enough?

Thanks that shows the base angles and shapes I wonder if the WOF would be a light enough construction.

Now every one get to work..

 

[Glenn Quarles]

Phil, it is good to see you interested in the Sport 12's. I have the proposal written up for the next IMPBA BOD meeting.
My sport .12 weights right at 2 lbs RTR and I use (and sell) the Speed Master mini rudder, a Fuller strut with ball bearings, a Hughey .125 cable (.125 stub shaft) and a X632 or X637.

We have a couple of guys around here wanting to start racing the class and are looking at the new Dark Horse pickle fork. Yeah a SSP .12 would be cool!

Glenn

Brian b makes the dark horse hydro? what kind of construction is that, epoxy? weight?

you know if I get a good wood one running I would have to make a epoxyglass one too.

Something like a UL hydro looks.

Phil, yes Brian makes the Dark Horse. I don't know what my bare shovel nose weighed, but I do have a new pickle fork I can weigh for you...it is a little heavier layup than my other one. Yes it is epoxy.

Glenn

 

[Mark Bullard]

Here you go guys. A scaled down verison of my SST 21 boat. A little 1/16 and 1/32 ply and foam and bingo a Sport 12 boat. If you can print the profiles in full scale or in parts then you can use them for the cutting profiles. I do this all the time on one shot drawings I have a plotter that I can plot on paper to full size or in parts. I have been drawing boats on Autocad for over 20 years and maybe the first one to do it.The tub should be about 4". The tunnels on each side should be about 2". The sponson should be about 2.5" at the top and a 1.5" ride pad. Make the tub profiles out of doubled 1/8" lite ply. The inside, outside tunnel plate and the sponson plate out of 1/16" ply. Notice the holes in the plates. This is for the lineup rods. Arrow shafts work very well for this. All outside sheeting should be done with 1/32" ply.

By the way this only took me about 15 minutes to change and post the drawing. Is that quick enough?

Thanks that shows the base angles and shapes I wonder if the WOF would be a light enough construction.

Now every one get to work..

It is called lighting holes or coreing out what you don't need. On my new boats, the tunnels are cored out to where the foam is only about 1/4" around the profile edge. This just gives you a little something to glue to.

 

[opio]

ok i read up on this and i was wondering this the dimensions is the length from tip to stern? and width sponson edge to other edge?

 

[dschigoda]

Here you go guys. A scaled down verison of my SST 21 boat. A little 1/16 and 1/32 ply and foam and bingo a Sport 12 boat. If you can print the profiles in full scale or in parts then you can use them for the cutting profiles. I do this all the time on one shot drawings I have a plotter that I can plot on paper to full size or in parts. I have been drawing boats on Autocad for over 20 years and maybe the first one to do it.The tub should be about 4". The tunnels on each side should be about 2". The sponson should be about 2.5" at the top and a 1.5" ride pad. Make the tub profiles out of doubled 1/8" lite ply. The inside, outside tunnel plate and the sponson plate out of 1/16" ply. Notice the holes in the plates. This is for the lineup rods. Arrow shafts work very well for this. All outside sheeting should be done with 1/32" ply.

By the way this only took me about 15 minutes to change and post the drawing. Is that quick enough?

Does the "inside tunnel plate glue (or laminate) onto the outside of the motor tub?

Does the "outside tunnel plate glue (or laminate) onto the inside of the sponson plate?

How do you "core out" the styrofoam? With what tools? A core drill?

Which epoxy glue do you use for gluing the styrofoam to the plywood?

Thanks.

Dave

 

[Mark Bullard]

Here you go guys. A scaled down verison of my SST 21 boat. A little 1/16 and 1/32 ply and foam and bingo a Sport 12 boat. If you can print the profiles in full scale or in parts then you can use them for the cutting profiles. I do this all the time on one shot drawings I have a plotter that I can plot on paper to full size or in parts. I have been drawing boats on Autocad for over 20 years and maybe the first one to do it.The tub should be about 4". The tunnels on each side should be about 2". The sponson should be about 2.5" at the top and a 1.5" ride pad. Make the tub profiles out of doubled 1/8" lite ply. The inside, outside tunnel plate and the sponson plate out of 1/16" ply. Notice the holes in the plates. This is for the lineup rods. Arrow shafts work very well for this. All outside sheeting should be done with 1/32" ply.

By the way this only took me about 15 minutes to change and post the drawing. Is that quick enough?

Does the "inside tunnel plate glue (or laminate) onto the outside of the motor tub?

Does the "outside tunnel plate glue (or laminate) onto the inside of the sponson plate?

How do you "core out" the styrofoam? With what tools? A core drill?

Which epoxy glue do you use for gluing the styrofoam to the plywood?

Thanks.

Dave

Yes, yes.

The tub is built first using tubes to line up the sides while you glue in the bulkheads. I use two 1.5" or 2" - aluminum right angles that can be bought from Lowe's. Then drill the holes that match the profiles the same size as the line up rods. Mount them on a true surface like a old inside door or some other true finished board. I mount one side and then cut two blocks at the width that I want the tub at the widest point. Then I use the line up tube thru a set of holes with a square true block to square the other side to the mounted side and then mount this angle. If you look at some of my pictures you will see some of my jigs. Build the tub by using the line up tubes and glue all of your bulkheads in place. I laminate epoxy two 1/8" lite ply pieces for the tub sides and then CA the bulkheads in place. so you will need four pieces. You can use scrap blocks to curve the front in for the nose of the tub.

The inside tunnel plate is glued to a nice square piece of foam of the width of the tunnel on a flat surface. The holes are drilled for the line up tubes. This must be done on a drill press. And make sure the your drill press table is square to the drill quill. Now insert the line up tubes but do not glue. Now you can glue the outside plate to the foam by using the line up tubes on a flat surface. What you will have is the back bottom area of the tunnel will be flat and square so long as all of your surfaces and drill press is square. Take the part to the band saw and cut the curve area on the bottom side tunnel square by using the profile as a guide. Next by line of site set a angle in the saw by looking at the transom end of the tunnel on the top side to cut the top profile. Reset the saw square and at the rear of the tunnel and cut out all of the inside area to about a 1/4" of the edge of the outside profile but leave the line up holes. Take a scrap piece of 1/32" ply and glue the cut where you enter the tunnel to core the inside.

You can then remove your tub from the jig and CA the tunnels to each side by using the line up tubs and you flat surface.

I then CA the bottom on the tub and tunnels as one piece leaving a little long on the transom. Build the sponsons and sheet all but the top and also leave the sheeting a little long on the rear chin at the transom and cut the same angle that you cut on the top of the tunnel profiles. Then they can be CA to the outside of the tunnels. Next cut, fit and glue a transom plate to glue across the whole transom. Sand the top good to blend it out for the sheeting. sheet each side of the top and finish out the boat

I use Divinycell for my foam and CA works well to glue it. You can use other foams but you will have to use other glues. I have used a foam glue from Lowes the come in a cauking tube. Slower but works well.

Hope this helps.

 

[Mark Bullard]

ok i read up on this and i was wondering this the dimensions is the length from tip to stern? and width sponson edge to other edge?

The drawings that I attached are about 26" total lenght on the sponson profile and the total width is about 13"

 

[Ron Olson]

Phil, if you come up with a SS 12, put me on the list also! I've got the Delta Force Vortex that I'm working on but at only 22" it just seems to be a little on the small side.

Right now it's got an Octura 3/16" strut and the Speedmaster mini-rudder.

I'm using the .125" cable and 3/16" shaft as Gary Preusse saai that Ed Hughey told him that they're stronger than the .150" cables.

As far as props go, I've got one of Andy's CNC'ed props to try plus some Octura's in the prop box.

Glenn's Nova Rossi's look like the engines to use and that pipe that he makes is a nice little piece of work, really quiet on the water.