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hugh hargett
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Is it feasible at 3360 watts? I meant .078 sorry.
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Jim Caldwell
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I am barely keeping 3/16 cables in my 8s rigger at 5000 watts so I dought it.
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Yes IF you like to donate props to the lake gods! I'd say your on super thin ice with that setup.
Paul
Paul
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hugh hargett
Guest
Either way I think Im going to step away from flexshafts and go with wire/flexcable ferrules and shafts . I saw some wire larger than .078 but a havent seen any collets for it?
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TinoAlmanza
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http://www.rcraceboat.com/Storewiredrive.html
Jeff is a master with wire drives and he can build any coupler you want
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hugh hargett
Guest
Yes I know Jeff Wholt I think thats who youre speaking of. I see it says the wires set records in t mono but im sure its the bigger gauge wire than .078. I dont want to deal with the loctite anymore. What I want is a wire ferrule to mate the wire up to a propshaft. It also allows me to balance with everything in place but the wire itself.
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hugh hargett
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Never saw a option for the next wire size up on his site .092 I think? I wish I could find someone who made wire ferrules.
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MrHammerHead
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Just curious. Why so dead set on using a wire drive?
Chris
Chris
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hugh hargett
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Chris
I get less friction with a wire.They are cheaper.They are non directional (left or right rotation doesnt matter).Less mass for the motor to turn. Lastly in my experience theyve lasted me longer than cables. Ive always used Huey cable; which does well but Ive snapped a few.2 of my smaller hydros have wires and I have yet to snap one. Im considering trying them in my bigger stuff. My prather is set up with a .078 wire and a castle 1717, so I should find out real quick what it will do. If it doesnt work out then ill go back to a cable ferrule set up.
Chris I also think with a seperate propshaft i can balance that shaft and get closer to a true balance via 180 degree opposing set screws,balacing the prop, drive dog and shaft all as one unit. Etc.
Like those numbers impressive! I see youre running strong. What do you use?
I get less friction with a wire.They are cheaper.They are non directional (left or right rotation doesnt matter).Less mass for the motor to turn. Lastly in my experience theyve lasted me longer than cables. Ive always used Huey cable; which does well but Ive snapped a few.2 of my smaller hydros have wires and I have yet to snap one. Im considering trying them in my bigger stuff. My prather is set up with a .078 wire and a castle 1717, so I should find out real quick what it will do. If it doesnt work out then ill go back to a cable ferrule set up.
Chris I also think with a seperate propshaft i can balance that shaft and get closer to a true balance via 180 degree opposing set screws,balacing the prop, drive dog and shaft all as one unit. Etc.
Like those numbers impressive! I see youre running strong. What do you use?
MrHammerHead
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Thanks... 
In my SAW riggers I use .150 cable up to 4S and .187 for 6 and 8S.
Both cables and wires can work very well if set up properly, I've just had more reliability with cables over the years and that's what I'm comfortable with.
Chris
In my SAW riggers I use .150 cable up to 4S and .187 for 6 and 8S.
Both cables and wires can work very well if set up properly, I've just had more reliability with cables over the years and that's what I'm comfortable with.
Chris
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hugh hargett
Guest
Chris what district are you in?
MrHammerHead
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D3, about halfway between Orlando and Daytona.
Chris
Chris
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hugh hargett
Guest
Must be nice to live in such a great area. Spring Break and Disney World d@@n. So tell me Chris do you run bearings, lead bushings or brass in your struts?
Hugh
Hugh
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MrHammerHead
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Funny thing is, I haven't been to Disney in years. I deal with tourists all the time at work so I don't really have the desire to go there. Besides Disney is always so ridicuously crowded, you spend most of your day waiting in line. As for Sring Break, well...I guess you could say I'm past that. I do like where I live though but for other reasons
On my big rigger I'm running a bearing strut. On my smaller stuff I've been running custom made teflon bushings but I'm just about out of them and can't get them any more, so..... I guess I'm going to have to figure out something else for them.
Chris
On my big rigger I'm running a bearing strut. On my smaller stuff I've been running custom made teflon bushings but I'm just about out of them and can't get them any more, so..... I guess I'm going to have to figure out something else for them.
Chris
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hugh hargett
Guest
Chris, did you run the boat in the avatar in elizabeth city? I was watching some footage on you tube and I think I saw that missle of a boat you have there.
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MrHammerHead
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Martin Hamilton
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Thanks...
In my SAW riggers I use .150 cable up to 4S and .187 for 6 and 8S.
Both cables and wires can work very well if set up properly, I've just had more reliability with cables over the years and that's what I'm comfortable with.
Chris Hi Chris what sort of kv do you run on your smaller saw boats for 4s & 6s, Do you think a .150 cable would hold up in something like a Leopard 3674 motor on 6s for SAW or would it need .187. Regards Martin.
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hugh hargett
Guest
Chris's Missile: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-wLfu0m7l0U&feature=related
Chris, I just get sick of losing props when the flex shafts break . Thats why I am considering flex cable and ferrules as an upgrade if the wire doesnt work.
Cheers
Hugh
Chris, I just get sick of losing props when the flex shafts break . Thats why I am considering flex cable and ferrules as an upgrade if the wire doesnt work.
Cheers
Hugh
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MrHammerHead
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@Martin H
On 6S I would go with .187 just to be safe. Just make sure there are NO radical bends in your stuffing tube and it should run very smooth.
For 4S I've been running 4500Kv and for 6S I would stay around 2200 to 2500Kv. PLEASE keep in mind these setups are really on the edge and are run in very light riggers. I try to keep it to two SAW passes only before I bring the boat back in. For me 6S for SAW has been the hardest to find a good setup so be very careful and start small on your prop and work up keeping a close eye on your temps.
@Hugh Hargett
I hear ya, it really sucks losing props. I found that when my cables do break most of them seem to break at or near the motor coupler so
I started using airplane wheel collars between the coupler and the stuffing tube as a retainer. I didn't like them though because they only have one set screw
which when tightened makes them wobble. So, I had Ned Schmidt machine me some custom collars with three set screws 120 degrees apart. He also put a revserse taper
on the stuffing tube side that keeps water and grease intrusion to a minimum. They run nice and true. A simple but trick solution and cheap insurance.
Chris
On 6S I would go with .187 just to be safe. Just make sure there are NO radical bends in your stuffing tube and it should run very smooth.
For 4S I've been running 4500Kv and for 6S I would stay around 2200 to 2500Kv. PLEASE keep in mind these setups are really on the edge and are run in very light riggers. I try to keep it to two SAW passes only before I bring the boat back in. For me 6S for SAW has been the hardest to find a good setup so be very careful and start small on your prop and work up keeping a close eye on your temps.
@Hugh Hargett
I hear ya, it really sucks losing props. I found that when my cables do break most of them seem to break at or near the motor coupler so
I started using airplane wheel collars between the coupler and the stuffing tube as a retainer. I didn't like them though because they only have one set screw
which when tightened makes them wobble. So, I had Ned Schmidt machine me some custom collars with three set screws 120 degrees apart. He also put a revserse taper
on the stuffing tube side that keeps water and grease intrusion to a minimum. They run nice and true. A simple but trick solution and cheap insurance.
Chris
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hugh hargett
Guest
Martin I think chris meant do not have radical bends. Typo I believe. Chris Im such a country boy I keep wondering what size bass or crappie are lurking in those waters lol.
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