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K

Ken Webb

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 14, 2007
Messages
921
Is it necessary to clean out a new eng. before running it? Back in the day we always cleaned a new eng. to remove any maching trash.
 
"One Time At Band Camp"

I pulled apart a new from the factory OS and found a brass curly so big I wondered HOW DID THAT GET IN THERE!!!!!!!!

Tim
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I always go through a new engine to make certain that there aren't some shavings left in the case.

Not to beat a dead horse, but there can be a big difference between manufacturers as to how well they clean their parts before puting engines together.

The best I've seen was Kalistratov. I never found any shavings after cleaning K engines. But, I cleaned each new engine anyway. The next best was Rossi, and so far I haven't found any shavings from them, but I have not gone through as many Rossi produced engines as I have K engines. I have seen some manufacturers' engines that were loaded with shavings, some made in the USA and some made in Italy.

It doesn't matter where the engine comes from, before I run it, I take it apart, clean it, inspect it and put it back together using oil and a model torque wrench set at 12 pounds.

I do not remove and reinstall the bearings.

If you have any questions, just drop me a line.

Al Hobbs
 
Thanks fella's. Looks like the more some things change others remain the same. Got a neww AA45 headed my way, so I guess I better get my cleaning goodies ready. Don't want to screw up a new motor. First new motor since the mid 80's and that was a Picco 65. Still have it. It's not even broken in.
 
spider said:
I just realalizedI asked the first question. This forum ain't cherry anymore. LOL
Click to expand...
Spider good question to get us started. As stated yes it is very important to open up that motor and inspect for burrs / trash left behind by the factory. Be sure to run your finger around the ports on the sleeve to feel out the burrs left behind and lightly file them away. Flush the motor out with carb cleaner and reassemble. Be sure to re lube your bearings, crankpin, wristpin and rotor, I use transmission fluid for this as it is my after run lube as well.

I always use a model torque wrench to properly torque all fasteners in the standard cris cross method. Here is a link to a good model torque wrench:

Tork It Torque Wrench

Tork It Bit set

The Price on the wrench has gone way up since I got mine but it is well worth it as attention to detail is key to your success! The wrench comes with recommended torque setting for the different screw size / bit size so you can't go wrong.
 
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this should go without saying but since i seen no mention of it.

you need to loctite the back plate with blue locktite

chris
 
I have never used thread locker on any part of my motors in 20 plus years, proper torque is all I need!
 
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I do not use thread locker on my engines either.

If everything is clean and properly torqued, the bolts should stay in place.
 
RaceCraftBearings said:
I have never used thread locker on any part of my motors in 20 plus years, proper torque is all I need!
Click to expand...

Al Hobbs said:
I do not use thread locker on my engines either.

If everything is clean and properly torqued, the bolts should stay in place.
Click to expand...
i agree here, the only engines i have ever had loosen bolts up either were starting to puke a bearing or had wildly modded cranks or pistons. all things that cause vibration & loosen bolts. imho, if you have stuff constantly coming loose, you have other issues causing it.
 
it's called insurance.have had many bolts loosen ,or come out,even if locktited.usually doesn't happen till you're leading a race.use a small drop of blue,or sing the blues
 
I can't imagine not securing certain bolts on an engine, proper torque may work? But what if it doesn't ??

I red loctite pressure fittings, carb barrel stop bolts, rudder pivot set screws, throttle arm lingage bolts,

just to name a few. Never put a motor back in service without blue loctite on the front or back case bolts.

There's just a couple things I don't loctite, head bolts and flex shaft coupler.
 
I, too, use blue Loctite on the case bolts but it's always a pain to clean the hardened Loctite off the bolts and parts the next time you tear the motor down. Got any tips about that? Acetone doesn't seem to work.

Thanks,

Ken
 
well i will say this

if you don't loctite them at least the back plate and carb body. if a bolt loosens up it will suck air and you will chase yourself trying to figure it out.

now that can also be said even if you use loctite but i would rather have it then not

chris
 
ken, buy some taps & dies in the sizes that your engines use. best way to clean threads. i chase/clean all threads on new engines upon initial teardown.
 
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moparbarn said:
ken, buy some taps & dies in the sizes that your engines use. best way to clean threads. i chase/clean all threads on new engines upon initial teardown.
Click to expand...
That's probobly the best way, but when I tear down an engine , everything goes in laq. thinner. When I pull the bolts out, they each get put in the vise

and spun clean with a wire wheel on the dremel. Sounds like a lot of fussing, but only takes a couple minutes and they are clean.
 

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