Removing orange peel

[Kez]

The weather was perfect this afternoon for painting and I quickly prepped the hull for a repair job. I use epoxy paint (Klasskote, leftover Hobbypoxy). Either I did not thin the paint enough or the pigment has some lumps in it, I ended up with a very grainy finish. In retrospect, I should have strained the paint before painting.

I am going to let the paint harden for a week or longer and then will try to rub it out.

Question: Do I need to wet sand it first? Or can I start with rubbing compound then buff it?

Thanks,

kez

 

[peter mueller]

sand it

 

[Duck899]

The weather was perfect this afternoon for painting and I quickly prepped the hull for a repair job. I use epoxy paint (Klasskote, leftover Hobbypoxy). Either I did not thin the paint enough or the pigment has some lumps in it, I ended up with a very grainy finish. In retrospect, I should have strained the paint before painting.

I am going to let the paint harden for a week or longer and then will try to rub it out.

Question: Do I need to wet sand it first? Or can I start with rubbing compound then buff it?

Thanks,

kez

Depending on the texture, start with 1000 grit wet/dry and move up to 2000. 1000-1500-2000.

 

[misshydro]

The weather was perfect this afternoon for painting and I quickly prepped the hull for a repair job. I use epoxy paint (Klasskote, leftover Hobbypoxy). Either I did not thin the paint enough or the pigment has some lumps in it, I ended up with a very grainy finish. In retrospect, I should have strained the paint before painting.

I am going to let the paint harden for a week or longer and then will try to rub it out.

Question: Do I need to wet sand it first? Or can I start with rubbing compound then buff it?

Thanks,

kez

Depending on the texture, start with 1000 grit wet/dry and move up to 2000. 1000-1500-2000.

wet sand it with 1500...then buff it..

 

[Kez]

Well, orange peel might not be a fitting description. The finish quite literally looks like my ceiling!!

I will wet sand it as you all suggested.

Thanks,

 

[misshydro]

Well, orange peel might not be a fitting description. The finish quite literally looks like my ceiling!!

I will wet sand it as you all suggested.

Thanks,

if it is bad as your saying..start with 1000 grit then after it close to smooth ,then use 1500 to get the scratchs out then use superdutie buffing compound to buff it out.

 

[Joe Warren]

The weather was perfect this afternoon for painting and I quickly prepped the hull for a repair job. I use epoxy paint (Klasskote, leftover Hobbypoxy). Either I did not thin the paint enough or the pigment has some lumps in it, I ended up with a very grainy finish. In retrospect, I should have strained the paint before painting.

I am going to let the paint harden for a week or longer and then will try to rub it out.

Question: Do I need to wet sand it first? Or can I start with rubbing compound then buff it?

Thanks,

kez

the hotter it is the more reducer you will need to add to get the paint to flow. Add reducer & turn the psi up a little

 

[Daniel's Racing]

I guess the remover might loosen up glue joints if wood hull not sure though as epoxy paint is very different than epoxy resin.

 

[P THOMAS]

Well, orange peel might not be a fitting description. The finish quite literally looks like my ceiling!!

I will wet sand it as you all suggested.

Thanks,

If this is a wood boat wet sanding can raise the wood grain. If the paint is rough sand it with some courser paper. I used red 180 paper dry sanded to level the finish of some epoxy primer that did that. You probally had not enough reducer or too low pressure, 1part hardner, color and reducer usually works.

Epoxy paint cannot be buffed out. You will spend the rest of your life sanding that epoxy paint with 1000 grit and not get a glossy finish. Just sand it level and if you dont have bare primer spots you can shoot clear or just shoot another coat of color.

 

[misshydro]

Well, orange peel might not be a fitting description. The finish quite literally looks like my ceiling!!

I will wet sand it as you all suggested.

Thanks,

If this is a wood boat wet sanding can raise the wood grain. If the paint is rough sand it with some courser paper. I used red 180 paper dry sanded to level the finish of some epoxy primer that did that. You probally had not enough reducer or too low pressure, 1part hardner, color and reducer usually works.

Epoxy paint cannot be buffed out. You will spend the rest of your life sanding that epoxy paint with 1000 grit and not get a glossy finish. Just sand it level and if you dont have bare primer spots you can shoot clear or just shoot another coat of color.

Hate to hurt your feelings Phil ,but epoxy paints can be buffed out..plus I think he's trying to save that paint job..But if it can't be save ,sand it with 320 to repaint it.. 180 is to much plus it will show sand scratches..

 

[Joe Warren]

Phils know the faster you cut it the Flatter it will be, if you must sand for repaint 220, 320 will not give the paint enough tooth for a new coat of paint, however everything must be days Dry before you do anything.......... good luck!

 

[Daniel's Racing]

Any final sanding coarser than 220 even with thicker slower setting epoxy paints will not be perfect. 320 or even 400 is recommended for most topcoats or even finer wetsanding before a clearcoat.

240 Grit-some people finish a car out with 240 grit before they begin to seal and paint; however I find that it will yield a paint job with orange peel and imperfections after the paint solvents evaporate a few days to a couple of weeks later. 240 grit is really best used when you're sanding through heavy primer with the intentions of re-priming the area (such as in the case where there has been heavy filler work).

320 Grit-minimum grit before sealing and painting a car, this is known as a finishing grit.

400 Grit-this is perhaps the most widely used finishing grit by autobody shops pre-sealing and paint; it provides a smooth surface, yet is rough enough for great paint adhesion.

600 Grit-this is most typically used when attempting the ultimate paintjob with a very skilled painter in a climate controlled booth. 600 grit is is used with water and the surfaces of the car are wet sanded smooth. This is the highest grit you can go pre-sealing and paint; any grit higher than this will create to smooth of a surface and there will be paint adhesion problems and most likely peeling will result.

1500 Grit-this grit is used in your first step of cutting and buffing a base coat/ clear or solid color single stage paint jobs. This grit is not really used to cut the top layer of paint for flatness, rather it is used to remove trash, debris and top surface imperfections such as: flies that land in the last coat, hair, dust, possible moister that found its way onto the surface of the paint when painting is completed. In the case of heavy orange peel 1500 grit can be used to remove most of it pending there are at least three full coats of paint on the vehicle.

 

[misshydro]

Phils know the faster you cut it the Flatter it will be, if you must sand for repaint 220, 320 will not give the paint enough tooth for a new coat of paint, however everything must be days Dry before you do anything.......... good luck!

320-400 will give bite for new paint to bite into..my joe been painting cars for 30+years and tought me afew tricks...220 will show threw your new paint job...

 

[P THOMAS]

Well, orange peel might not be a fitting description. The finish quite literally looks like my ceiling!!

I will wet sand it as you all suggested.

Thanks,

If this is a wood boat wet sanding can raise the wood grain. If the paint is rough sand it with some courser paper. I used red 180 paper dry sanded to level the finish of some epoxy primer that did that. You probally had not enough reducer or too low pressure, 1part hardner, color and reducer usually works.

Epoxy paint cannot be buffed out. You will spend the rest of your life sanding that epoxy paint with 1000 grit and not get a glossy finish. Just sand it level and if you dont have bare primer spots you can shoot clear or just shoot another coat of color.

Hate to hurt your feelings Phil ,but epoxy paints can be buffed out..plus I think he's trying to save that paint job..But if it can't be save ,sand it with 320 to repaint it.. 180 is to much plus it will show sand scratches..

Missy, 180 wont show scratches under another prime or color coat. I am using sticky back rynodry redline 180 got it at the paint store. yea sanding for clear coat should use 320-400 or 600 to show no scratches. he isnt trying to just buff it out. DNS?

 

[misshydro]

Well, orange peel might not be a fitting description. The finish quite literally looks like my ceiling!!

I will wet sand it as you all suggested.

Thanks,

If this is a wood boat wet sanding can raise the wood grain. If the paint is rough sand it with some courser paper. I used red 180 paper dry sanded to level the finish of some epoxy primer that did that. You probally had not enough reducer or too low pressure, 1part hardner, color and reducer usually works.

Epoxy paint cannot be buffed out. You will spend the rest of your life sanding that epoxy paint with 1000 grit and not get a glossy finish. Just sand it level and if you dont have bare primer spots you can shoot clear or just shoot another coat of color.

Hate to hurt your feelings Phil ,but epoxy paints can be buffed out..plus I think he's trying to save that paint job..But if it can't be save ,sand it with 320 to repaint it.. 180 is to much plus it will show sand scratches..

Missy, 180 wont show scratches under another prime or color coat. I am using sticky back rynodry redline 180 got it at the paint store. yea sanding for clear coat should use 320-400 or 600 to show no scratches. he isnt trying to just buff it out. DNS?

yes you can 180 to prime but for finnal sanding should be done with 320 to seal to paint or just to prime to paint.,,Phil yes 180 will show to prime to paint...you must be dumping alot of clear to barrie those sand scratchs..painting boats isnt no difference then painting real cars and trucks..same paint preperations on anything you paint....but on bair steal is alittle difference...wash it with metal prep,sand it then use metal prep and wash it with prep sol and etch prime and prime then paint...you can 180 the wood to apply clear epoxy resin on your wooden hull...but we mostly razor blade ours hull and use 320 and a red scotch bright pad before painting..on smaller boats there sentive to weight big time...so you dont want to add to much paint to your hull..

 

[Will Gallagher]

It's always funny to hear someone say "I have been doing this 30 years"... It generally means they are stuck in their ways.. .... New EPA regulations have forced paint and chemical companies to produce products that contain no or reduced amounts of VOC's. We now rely more on a mechanical bond then a Chemical Bond. Sanding with 220 or 320 will provide a good physical interlocking of the coating and substrate. In other words, the radio box tape wont peel up the paint!!

Please remember to always wear a good quality respirator and eye protection.

 

[misshydro]

It's always funny to hear someone say "I have been doing this 30 years"... It generally means they are stuck in their ways.. .... New EPA regulations have forced paint and chemical companies to produce products that contain no or reduced amounts of VOC's. We now rely more on a mechanical bond then a Chemical Bond. Sanding with 220 or 320 will provide a good physical interlocking of the coating and substrate. In other words, the radio box tape wont peel up the paint!!

Please remember to always wear a good quality respirator and eye protection.

No it means the person isnt stuck in there ways its mean the person knows what will work and what wont threw the many of years in autobody and paint work...plus some of us do reduce low voc paints/clears to help them flow and spray smoother..the smoother you lay/spray the paint/clears the less sanding and buffing you need to do.. heck theres times you can lay the paint out like glass and you dont need to wetand buff at all...

 

[Kez]

Thanks all for your replies and offering your esperience. I learned a lot of useful information so that I will not make the same mistake on future projects.

It was warm but dry when decided to do the touch up job. I used LESS thinner than I normall would thinking that warm ambient temperature would make any fluid less viscous. It is counter intuitive that more thinner is needed on a warm day. I think that must be the root cause.

Lots of good information on sandpaper as well. It is a glass hull so I have no problem wet sanding it. I normally would not wet sand the primer coat on a wooden hull unless I am sure it would not cut through the corners.

It has been two days since I mixed the batch of paint and the leftover has since cured in the bottle. I was thinking of sanding it down and redo the area but I guess I would wait a week for the paint to cure and then try the sanding buffing techinques suggested.

kez

 

[Hydro Junkie]

I'd like to thank all that have posted in this thread. The comments made have told me that I'm better off spending some cash and taking my boats to a licensed paint/body shop rather than trying to do it myself. I figure a couple of "C" notes spent will be more cost effective than spending around a grand for a gun and all the rest of the stuff that I will use maybe once in a blue moon.

 

[misshydro]

For the ones that cant paint ,take it a bodyshop or if you know somebody thats paints,have them do it for you....For the ones that want to try it,go for it....theres alot of painters on this site and other r/c boast website that will help you out....thats why we have paint threads for....No paint gun cost a grand. For the do it selfer can get and a SMALL TOUCH UP HVLP GRAVITY FEED gun for 50.00 at most places.. you dont need a big aircompresser neighter.. We got a 26 gallon to do small stuff like paint the sides of cars and will do a gas R/C boats with no proublems.,