steath assassin
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Cables, rods??? Source for cable and what type of solder?
Any help would be killer,
Derrick
Any help would be killer,
Derrick
Need some Ideas on steering linkage
- Thread starter steath assassin
- Start date
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bob miller
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solder
deerrick...i have been using cables for steering for many years...i prefere sullivans brass cables,no corrosion or rust...for solder i use the local hobby store stuff or radio shack...i believe that cables have less binding then solid rods ...more flexability for adjustments...bob miller
steath assassin
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Where do you find the conectors for the steering arm? Where Is sullivans cable found?
Also do you run a round wheel on the servo for the cable? Who has those?
Thanks for your help.
bob miller
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bob miller
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derrick...try to locate a well stocked hobby shop in your area...for steering connectors i use sullivan 4-40 gold n clevis for 40 size boats and 2-56 gold nclevis for 20 size boats...for cables i use #508 cable...you will have to solder a 4-40 or 2-56 threaded coupler to the cable...towers 2009 master catalog list 508 cable on pg 85...threaded couplers pg 78...sulivan golden clevs on pg 85...hope this helps...bob miller
bob miller
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i dont use wheels for steering ...for 40 size boats i use a heavy duty steering arm...for 20 size boats a standard steering arm should work ok...
jetpack
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I prefer a single tiller rod for steering. No binding due to unequal arm lengths, easy to change engine trim, then just an easy steering trim at the controller. Easy to connect and dis-connect. No muss, no fuss, no slop.
My experience with cables is binding at the servo output shaft, difficult motor trim changes, floppy installations, extra work, trap water (read moisture in the radio box).
I use (2) 4-40 titanium balls from Lundsford Racing and also their 4-40 heavy duty ball cups, stainless steel safety nuts, one carbon arrow shaft, one titanium turnbuckle cut in half and JBWelded each end of the shaft, and one large boot and opening. A short length of large brass tubing epoxied to pass the radio box end, and a balloon rolled over the tube works well for that.
If you mount it to the outside (left) of the hull, the steering geometry is better...less end exponential, and vise-versa...your call due to my set of the motor arm which is further back than pivot.
My experience with cables is binding at the servo output shaft, difficult motor trim changes, floppy installations, extra work, trap water (read moisture in the radio box).
I use (2) 4-40 titanium balls from Lundsford Racing and also their 4-40 heavy duty ball cups, stainless steel safety nuts, one carbon arrow shaft, one titanium turnbuckle cut in half and JBWelded each end of the shaft, and one large boot and opening. A short length of large brass tubing epoxied to pass the radio box end, and a balloon rolled over the tube works well for that.
If you mount it to the outside (left) of the hull, the steering geometry is better...less end exponential, and vise-versa...your call due to my set of the motor arm which is further back than pivot.
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I Have been using the cables for 8 years now just like bob is talking about. as far as sealing them put grease on them before putting in the housing. as far as sealing them i use small fuel line on the end push it up on to the outer housing and leave 1/2 in on the cable no water leaks. Also easy to run in tight places See ya Jimmy
