JAE gas rigger build

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handling problem sorted! Took me about an hour this morning to make up a new turn fin... based on Peter's design (ta for the pics mate!).

what issues have you had with the original turn fin design once I'm about to make tests with my gas Jae and have a spare fin to make some mods.

Gill
 
Big weekend Jim... great fun, but the weather was HOT (36 degrees C).

Rigger went well when I got it on the water. Out of 5 heats I had:

Heat 1 - Blew the start, but finished in 3rd

Heat 2 - Engine wouldn't play, DNS.

Heat 3 - Dicing for 1st place and the boat in front flipped on turn 4 just in front of me and no-where to go. Thought it was going to be destroyed, but only damage was to the nose piece. Other boat had major damage (Cajun Bullet).

Heat 4 - 2nd place - ran well. Speed was as good as the rest of the field (maybe a touch quicker).

Heat 5 - Out in front, leading the race and the engine just quit :(

All in all, very happy with the performance of the boat. Some suggested a slightly greater angle on the bend to lock the boat in a bit better on the turn, but overall she went well.
 
Mike,

Happy to hear the RZ is finally working as it should, 2818 is a LOT of prop and should make that hull oval in the mid to upper 70's or more ?

When you get a chance to TACH it and get some solid numbers it's doing, please share them with me via PM or e-mail.

Regards,

Scott
 
Not bad for it's first race, as we know it will get better and better!

Scott, I think he said the prop was a 2716.
 
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Got my motor back on Saturday,went to the lake today running several props the 28/18 seems the best. Got to sharpen my 30/18 and try it,boat handled real well and seemed to have good speed.We did not take a gps today and broke our radar gun....
Scott, I think he said the prop was a 2716.
Referring to this earlier post ... It's all good :D
 
Scott,

We started with a 6719/3 prop, went to a 2716, and then the 2818. We were trying to load the motor, searching for EGT. The boat would come in with the motor feeling good and warm, but the pipe was Stone Cold. I could grab the pipe right when it came in. Its a polished pipe, so it should stay screaming hot for a long time. Not sure but we may need to choke it down? The pipe has a water cooled flange, AND coupling and we took the water off the coupling.

I'll put a tach and gps in it as your suggested and get you some numbers.

Thanks,

Jeff
 
Scott,

We started with a 6719/3 prop, went to a 2716, and then the 2818. We were trying to load the motor, searching for EGT. The boat would come in with the motor feeling good and warm, but the pipe was Stone Cold. I could grab the pipe right when it came in. Its a polished pipe, so it should stay screaming hot for a long time. Not sure but we may need to choke it down? The pipe has a water cooled flange, AND coupling and we took the water off the coupling.

I'll put a tach and gps in it as your suggested and get you some numbers.

Thanks,

Jeff
Don't know what pipe you guys are running, but out west here in the drier air best overall performance out of the @25cc gassers comes with a stinger I.D. around .410/.430" range. If aluminum we ALSO wrap them in Silicone tape to further insulate them from radiant thermal loss's. ( Will do steel pipes also if in the open air )

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Hey guys.. not sure if anyone is having a similar problem, but I keep shearing off the woodruff key in the RZ254 engine in my JAE rigger.. It's happened twice now, the first time the flywheel was destroyed, 2nd time just wouldn't start due to the timing being out. Usually after a dunking (ie can't start the engine later).

Any ideas?
 
If you're shearing off the Woodruff key after a dunking, you're getting off cheap as you could have bent a crank or con-rod instead.
 
Hey guys.. not sure if anyone is having a similar problem, but I keep shearing off the woodruff key in the RZ254 engine in my JAE rigger.. It's happened twice now, the first time the flywheel was destroyed, 2nd time just wouldn't start due to the timing being out. Usually after a dunking (ie can't start the engine later).

Any ideas?
A few hits like that and you will be looking for a motor. You have i a cowl on it right? This front carbed motor does not like a dose of water,you qunech the piston enough and its going to come apart. Protect the inlet any way you can
 
Mark Sholund sent me a prop to try, I could barely turn it but will keep on working with it. The prop that works best so far is one that G-Force Hydros sold me, the boat runs straight but not quite enough speed. I've got a 2716 (10 degree I think) bolted on now so I'll see how that works out Saturday.
 
Did a couple of test runs Sunday with a new turn fin similar to Peter's. Still turns on a dime like my other turn fin but tracks a lot better (straight). Unfortunately after a couple hard turns it started to bend. 6061-?

The best prop so far is a 2818 I modified. I also tried a 6719.....I'll get the start on anybody with this one but has a little less top end. Still playing with a couple of 3014's.

Also started playing with different boom widths and offsets.
 
Briefly Saturday I had mine on the water. The G-Force/VooDoo 2716/2 10 degree worked very well for the short time that it was run. Lynn Cooper e-mailed me yesterday and said that my pipe may be too short and that going longer should be able to make it spin bigger props. It's also had the VooDoo 2719/3 on it which its also happy with but I didn't feel that the speed was quite there yet.

This week I'll lengthen the pipe then try Mark's prop out again. Some like the Octura V967/3 so I've got one of those ready to toss on.

I've got lots of testing to do on 3 boats before the Gas Nat's, fortunately I'm on vacation the week of Labor Day.

A couple of other things. On the hard starting issue, I believe that you said that you replaced the flywheel. Compare it to the old one and see if the keyway slot is in a different area as some did slip through the cracks with it machined in the wrong spot throwing the timing way off.

There's also talk of taking 4" off the boom tubes. Right now I'm not too crazy about trying it this close to race time at the Gas Nat's but may do it during the winter time. If there is an upside to doing that it will be fitting it in the trailer a lot easier plus dropping some weight off the front.

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Looks good Ron I wouldn't cut the booms short mine works great the way it is designed. I use one of Mike Shuttleworths Redline Pipe and headers set ups.
 
I do like the way that it handles so far so that's kind of the reason that I don't want to mess with the booms. The other would be messing up if I did narrow the booms and miss the marks when drilling into the sponson pins.

The Cooper Cobra I'm happy with although it seems to be really sensitive to its length. They're discussing coming out with a 1" band pipe plus one for 1" headers which the RCMK's and the 30cc angines are going to need from Zen and RCMK.
 
Good job Mikey I just started a build on the RCU. I hope my build comes close.to the quality of your build.. I've seen a shorter version run. The hull looks more like the JAE style. I plan on cutting off 4 " off the booms. I run the .12 and the .21 rigger. I do like the new pipe that Joe sells I plan on testing soon. like tomorrow This gas rigger will be my 11th rigger build. Not all mine. I built a few for friends. We will have a .12 class in my club next year. I do like small size .12 to build and fun to run. Advanced builder /Neil
 
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