jim,are you taking about a AAC motor?Even though the MB-40 has been around for many years, the technology used in the main transfers & the boost transfer is relatively new. It is also much easier to change the transfers & cylinder ports when they are seperate pieces compared to a one piece upper end that has no cylinder. These transfers with a radius inside & outside contradict Gordon Blairs idea of the tea cup handle shapped transfer.
Manufactured engines always look for the most cost effective method to make the engine. Maybe this is why a very few manufacturers have taken the time to learn how to hard chrome plate aluminum.
Jim Allen
jim,is this next stage after a double bubble head or are they completly different?Don,Upload of test pic, not part of this discussion
The photo you posted reminded me of something. I still use it on both the gas & nitro engines with great success.
Jim
The two types are completely different. We are still using the double bubble head on the 45 engines because there hasn"t been enough time to test the toroidal type. We also use a tappered seat plug in the smaller engines. It doesn't seem to have much effect in the larger size engines.jim,is this next stage after a double bubble head or are they completly different?Don,Upload of test pic, not part of this discussion
The photo you posted reminded me of something. I still use it on both the gas & nitro engines with great success.
Jim
hey jim,i owned a few AAC motors and what i noticed and heard from other guy's that owned AAC motors was that they lost there fit quickly even after proper break in and normal running. do you think this is because the motors were mass produced and not fitted correctly from the factory? also when i buy my high dollar on-road motors (N/R) all hand fit and built, the fit is outstanding and after proper break in they last a long time!Mike,
There are some definite advantages of an aluminum cylinder over a brass cylinder. The first is the lighter weight, esecially when the large size design cylinder head bolts passing through the liners lip is being used. Also the aluminum's thermal conductivity is greater than the brass which helps dissipate the heat of combustion. The aluminum is also more rigid than brass.The reason that either brass or aluminum cylinders can be used in a ring less ABC or AAC engine is that the expansion rates of both materials change (become slightly larger) once the hard industrial chrome has been applied. Therefore, in either case, if the cold fit is properly done, the engine's piston should never skuff of jam in it's bore; even if the engine is run in an overlean condition for an extended period of time. It was thought at one time that high silicone pistons would prevent the common problem of piston scuffing. Our in depth testing of various piston alloys (A-390, Mahle 138, Dispal-250, RSA-431 & RSA-444) definitely prove that "CYLINDER TAPER & CYLINDER FINISH" are the controlling factors to eliminating cylinder scuffing. I previously explained, with photos, that the only damage found in returned engines, that had been flown over lean at WOT, was the loss of the tapper amount in the sealing area. Since all metals yield to some extent (both the piston & the cylinder in this case) the fact that the piston's OD is larger than the cylinder's ID at the sealing point, explains why this system works. Higher silicon pistons DO NOT prevent piston to cylinder scuffing, but they do greatly extend the life of the piston to liner fit. Testing & actual in the field use proves these facts beyond any doubt! The "SUPER FINISH" used in our engine's cylinders plus the precise roundness of both pieces also contributes to a longer piston to liner fit.
Jim Allen
Mikehey jim,i owned a few AAC motors and what i noticed and heard from other guy's that owned AAC motors was that they lost there fit quickly even after proper break in and normal running. do you think this is because the motors were mass produced and not fitted correctly from the factory? also when i buy my high dollar on-road motors (N/R) all hand fit and built, the fit is outstanding and after proper break in they last a long time!Mike,
There are some definite advantages of an aluminum cylinder over a brass cylinder. The first is the lighter weight, esecially when the large size design cylinder head bolts passing through the liners lip is being used. Also the aluminum's thermal conductivity is greater than the brass which helps dissipate the heat of combustion. The aluminum is also more rigid than brass.The reason that either brass or aluminum cylinders can be used in a ring less ABC or AAC engine is that the expansion rates of both materials change (become slightly larger) once the hard industrial chrome has been applied. Therefore, in either case, if the cold fit is properly done, the engine's piston should never skuff of jam in it's bore; even if the engine is run in an overlean condition for an extended period of time. It was thought at one time that high silicone pistons would prevent the common problem of piston scuffing. Our in depth testing of various piston alloys (A-390, Mahle 138, Dispal-250, RSA-431 & RSA-444) definitely prove that "CYLINDER TAPER & CYLINDER FINISH" are the controlling factors to eliminating cylinder scuffing. I previously explained, with photos, that the only damage found in returned engines, that had been flown over lean at WOT, was the loss of the tapper amount in the sealing area. Since all metals yield to some extent (both the piston & the cylinder in this case) the fact that the piston's OD is larger than the cylinder's ID at the sealing point, explains why this system works. Higher silicon pistons DO NOT prevent piston to cylinder scuffing, but they do greatly extend the life of the piston to liner fit. Testing & actual in the field use proves these facts beyond any doubt! The "SUPER FINISH" used in our engine's cylinders plus the precise roundness of both pieces also contributes to a longer piston to liner fit.
Jim Allen
Mike,more question's. on a drum style rotor is it OK to make the taper on the inlet side flat? it comes from the factory with a tapper in it.the reason i ask is if you look at a disc rotor it is flat. i have a motor that only has 57* at closing and need to get it up to 62*.thanks,mike.
hi jim,sorry for the late reply,i think i am going to just cut the rotor and not mess with the case.thanks,mike.Mike,more question's. on a drum style rotor is it OK to make the taper on the inlet side flat? it comes from the factory with a tapper in it.the reason i ask is if you look at a disc rotor it is flat. i have a motor that only has 57* at closing and need to get it up to 62*.thanks,mike.
On the inverted type drums, such as the Rossi type there is an advantage to knife edging the inside & then opening the case window to what ever is necessary. I suggest using trigonometry to calculate exactly where to cut the case. A degree wheel will not suffice for this job!
JA
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