a few JAE12 questions

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I havent tried either pipe you're thinking of... but when I need a replacement pipe and I asked Rod G about trying my .21 pipe (OPS 3280) he said it had too much volume/not a good idea. Just an FYI, the Miss Bud .15 Proboat pipe is a dead ringer for a MACS 2.5 pipe which I've had good luck with and should be able to be bought cheap. :)
 
I might get lucky finding a .15 ProBoat pipe...

In the meantime...I managed to do the unthinkable....I was reinstalling my Z-12 strut, and it got stuck on the stuffing tube about halfway on. It wouldn't go in any farther...nor would it come off! I tried twisting it back and forth to pull it off. I noticed that the strut wasn't spinning on the stuffing tube....the stuffing tube itself was twisting. I managed to get it cut out. Now I need to get a new stuffing tube bent and installed with as little damage as possible :(
 
Without going into how much grief replacing the stuffing tube caused me, I'll just say that I ended up drilling a series of holes in the radio box floor (within the width of the ski) so I could get the new stuffing tube installed. I then covered the hole with a piece of 1/16 ply. Done!

Now that I am back on track, I am in the process of setting up my linkage for the throttle. I am using the Nova Rossi .12 ... How much gap in the throttle orifice should I leave so it will idle?

Also, I am using the O.S. needle that Glenn sells... How many turns out should I start with?

Thanks Again, Tim
 
Tim,

My needle is set at 1.6 turns out. It should start at 3 out, id start from there to heat cycle it.

I think we are using the same throttle servo, sub-micro futaba, if so put the throttle on the largest radius hole on the servo, and the inner hole on the carb arm. I think i had to bend it a little to keep it from binding.

This gives the highest angular transmission, and then adjusting for end points to 120% you should be able to just get full throttle and complete shut off. mine idles at about 20%

bring it to the meeting if ya want, we'll get her ready for this weekend.
 
Thanks Jeff,

I will certainly bring it to the meeting.

I'd like to get it started tonight, but it's getting a bit late....or is it!?!
 
Getting there! Still need to make the rear pipe mount and run the water line from the prop to the motor. Going to start with a shortened Miss Vegas shaft and Grim Racer Vegas prop. Ready to try to start it in just a few moments...and hopefully get it to the lake tomorrow!

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JAE12 002.jpg

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Looks good Tim I will bring my prop box of tiny ones this weekend. GITR DONE :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: PS pipe looks good
 
Nice Tim! One thing you will notice with the clear radio box lid is that you will get condensation forming on the inside. It would be a good idea to tint that lid or get one that has a tint to it. If you have ever seen an Aeromarine radio box lid, you will notice that they have a blue tint to them...they work well...

-Kent
 
Mike, Thanks again for working on the pipe for me...as well as everybody else in the club and here that has given me help! I couldn't do it without you...

No dice on getting it started tonight..it did get it to run for a bit...but that is all. The piston is so tight at the top that my starter/belt can't get it to turn over. I need to turn the motor using a wrench on the collet to get it to where it spins free... This is even with the plug out.
 
Thanks Kent, I'll take a look for those tinted lids. I really wanted the clear lid so I could easily tell if water was getting into the radio box.

Speaking of which...how do I seal the rubber control rod boots to the box...a little CA glue?
 
I might have to talk to my sister about laser cutting some lids for the boats as she has a lot of thin plastic sheet laying around in various colors.

On the seals I used a dab of Shoe-Goo.
 
Got to run it today, really happy it only needed a couple clicks of rudder adjustment to get it to run true! The third run I ended up losing steering because the grub screw came out and the pin that holds the rudder to the bracket came out...luckily there was a drill bit on hand that fit...I was also lucky that I bought some M3 grub screws yesterday.

I think someone pointed this out before, the boat sits very low in the water so take care on sealing things up in the back.

The motor does run very cool, so I may need to pinch off the water line a bit more. Of course it is still blubbering rich...so rich that I don't think it will make a 7 lap heat :eek:
 
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Tim what is the measurment tetween the sponsons? I need inside to inside or outside to outside. Thanks, Ryon
 
Right off hand I believe that the booms are 16" long. If you're scratch building, you can go wider.
 
Ryon, The sponsons are about 13 5/8 inches from inside to inside. The distance from the inside of the sponson to the tub is 5 9/16 inches. Hope this is what you are looking for.
 
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