Need Specs or CAD file for JAE21G2

I downloaded a set of PDF planes for the JAE21G2 and I'm trying to create the model in Solidworks but I need a couple of Dimensions that are not on the planes. I intend to make this from Carbon Fiber but I need CAD files(DXF) to cut it out on the water jet. I put the specs I need on the PDF/Pic, Any help would be Highly Appreciated if any of you Rigger Experts could give me the specs or a DWG or SLDPRT or SLDDRW or IGES.

Thanks

Adam

JAE21G2cf.PDF

Hello Adam, I will have to crank up my old laptop to get the cad file. Its .dwg but will work. If I cant find it we will try Rod, his computer and his mind are a lot alike. They both have a lot of data just cant remember where he put it. LOL

David

Adam, doesn't solidworks have a fluid flow simulation? Would it be possible to draw a boat put it inside a pipe, simulate flow, and use it for a virtual wind tunnel?

David

David,

Yes it is possible if you have the Floworks plugin for SW. It can be used more for a visualization tool, but if you were trying to estimate lift or something else dynamic it may be limited.

I do have SW Pro and Floworks and tried testing my SAW rigger against a friend at a Tier I auto race shop who had the $100k flow package for cars. Same visualization, but the numbers were slightly different. BTW, neither modeled the ground effects of water.

TG

David a .DWG of the sponson side and tub side would be awesome I can convert that to a .SLDDRW and make a part from it no problem.

I do have the simulation plug in and flow analysis stuff but haven't played with it alot. I do believe it is more of a Simulation Tool as Tyler stated. I have considered trying it out on this design eventually, and IF I can finagle it maybe stick it in one of the Wind Tunnels here at work

But I might have to do A Lot of sucking up to the boss and get a couple of the Mechanical Engineering Students involved to get away with That.

Adam

twox45 said:

Hello Adam, I will have to crank up my old laptop to get the cad file. Its .dwg but will work. If I cant find it we will try Rod, his computer and his mind are a lot alike. They both have a lot of data just cant remember where he put it. LOL

David

Click to expand...

Now that wasn't nice...............uh,what was your name again???.......

Adam,Send me a email address ......I have the file.......and I know exactly where it is......I think.....

Adam I am couriuos how much of thick carbon/fiber sheet? what kind of glue bond ? black epoxy glue from auto body?

Thanks Rod, PM sent.

Allen that is just a SolidWorks 3D Model at this point. I have to go next door to our High Performance Material Institute and Pick the Experts Brain to see Exactly what I can and Can't get away with.

Right now I have it drawn up with 1\8" thick sides and 1\16" Top and Bottom skins, But that will get thinner\lighter. I will use the same epoxy to bond it as I use to make the CF panels, do what little paint work I decide to put on it then Clear Coat the whole thing.

What do Y'all think about this Rudder/Strut assembly?

Great job Adam

Nice work Adam! Did you render those images? They look really nice!

Couple design notes:

(1) I like the hardware with the leading edge of the rudder exactly in line with the hinge pin. This way the leading edge of the rudder never displaces when pivoted.

(2) Full wedge rudder blade; all the hardware producers use a full wedge rudder and to me its the only way to go.

Thanks guys.

Jeff I have considered extending the leading edge of the rudder to the pivot point of the hinge just didn't do it in this model YET. I have used this same basic rudder design on a couple of my boats and it has worked very well, although they don't run as fast as a rigger. But my favorite one Does run faster than Most of it's size and displacement.

As far as the Wedge vs, Flat/Thin rudder, I have tried both on other set ups and found the Wedge to be more forgiving but Slower. Although That could have simply been a Better/Worse Tune from day to day.

Thanks for the Input.

Adam

Oh and Yes I did render those with the Photoview 360 in SolidWorks.

Has anybody tried locking the booms in place with something like this?

http://www.mcmaster.com/#5472k21/=rkaxzl

Or a Yor-Lok or Compression fitting?

Nice system but not sure if with vibration/water/oil it would stay in place...just tests to tell us the truth.btw great Project.Gill

Well it looks like the First one I make will be Wood or Wood/E-Glass. I can get Real Nice Aircraft Grade Pre Preg CF FREE, BUT they WON't fire up the AutoClave for me to make something for Myself So I will have to Build something to Cook the CF @ 350*F.

I did get a little more Designing Done. Thinking About Trying Something like this (see Pic) to Hold the Sponsons on the Booms. What Ya Think??

Adam.....All the magnificent tech tools and knowledge you have available to you is way cool but keep this thought in mind while building your boat....

Don't ever leave light weight off the table of design considerations......That is the cheapest performance increase you will ever find........

Thanks for the Input Rod (And the Cad Files). That's one of the things I like about the JAE Design is it's Simplicity as do Many Others.

I'm just trying to put my own little Tweaks to it, and one of the things I'm not fond of is the screw through the CF Boom especially If you have to replace a boom and Try to hit the Same Hole again without Wallering It.

Also the limited contact area to secure the Boom Sleeve in the sponson, if I build it out of CF it will be even Thinner\less area than the Wood ( and Hopefully Lighter).

Just tossing out Ideas to see what some of You more experienced builders think about em, I MAY come up with a good one sooner or later

I drew the Sleeve up as Brass but could make it out of Alum. just thought the Brass Threads would be more durable. I put small Shoulders on the sleeve and Reduced the size of the hole through the side to help prevent it from pulling through the side. I also reduced the Length\weight of the sleeve because the extra material needed for the Screw through the Boom wasn't needed.

I drew the outer hub up as Alum. so IF something was going to Strip Threads it would be the Removable Piece. I could also use an Alum Screw in the end to reduce weight.