Micro Rigger

Intlwaters

Help Support Intlwaters:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Ok I have borrowed a x637 to see how that works and I have a 215 again now. So I will see how it goes real soon, need to do some exhaust work on the wifes car before I can go play :)

Thanks

Paul
 
X637 MAY ( try it though) still be too big, you need a very small prop in order to get your engine pretty close, then you can slowly start increasing prop once you get the boat/engine/pipe set-up. Something like a Y535 or similar?

~James

PS, all of those props you menioned.... thats what we run on full modified .21 sized outboards. Its a little much for a .12, especially a new one.

PPS, listen to Gary and David! They will help you with your boat problem much faster than any of us because they are there with you. They have the knowledge and then some...
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Gary is the one who told me atleast a 1440. The x637 is a little smaller than the 215 so I will try that first then gonna go back to what is atleast working the 215.

Paul
 
Well I got mine going strong as ever again, with the 215 prop. I will try other props with the boat tuned for the 215. See I havent had a 215 for about 10 days now, I just got one yesterday and all is running good now. Only problem I had was water was a little choppy and the tuned pipe blew apart at the coupler so boat died, but boat got its full 15min float test and past. So tomorrow will run again and hope all is as good as today. Can anyone recommend a good fastener for the exhaust coupler , the zip ties just dont wanna cut it.

Paul

p.s. Tried a x637 and no good, it is smaller than the 215 also. I will try the x637 again tomorrow and see how it goes.
 
Well I got mine going strong as ever again, with the 215 prop. I will try other props with the boat tuned for the 215. See I havent had a 215 for about 10 days now, I just got one yesterday and all is running good now. Only problem I had was water was a little choppy and the tuned pipe blew apart at the coupler so boat died, but boat got its full 15min float test and past. So tomorrow will run again and hope all is as good as today. Can anyone recommend a good fastener for the exhaust coupler , the zip ties just dont wanna cut it.

Paul

p.s. Tried a x637 and no good, it is smaller than the 215 also. I will try the x637 again tomorrow and see how it goes.
The best zip ties I have found are; Thomas&Betts, cat. no. TY524M These are bullet proof, metal tang,40lbs.test,

185F temp. from elec. supplier. There are some others, ask Chris Wood, Panduit I believe?
 
Well I got mine going strong as ever again, with the 215 prop. I will try other props with the boat tuned for the 215. See I havent had a 215 for about 10 days now, I just got one yesterday and all is running good now. Only problem I had was water was a little choppy and the tuned pipe blew apart at the coupler so boat died, but boat got its full 15min float test and past. So tomorrow will run again and hope all is as good as today. Can anyone recommend a good fastener for the exhaust coupler , the zip ties just dont wanna cut it.

Paul

p.s. Tried a x637 and no good, it is smaller than the 215 also. I will try the x637 again tomorrow and see how it goes.
The best zip ties I have found are; Thomas&Betts, cat. no. TY524M These are bullet proof, metal tang,40lbs.test,

185F temp. from elec. supplier. There are some others, ask Chris Wood, Panduit I believe?
I use stainless tie wire for mine. seems to hold well. I have used regular zips with success though. The wire works great and is relatively inexpensive. Just doesn't look as great.
 
This boat is a never ending dilemma. Boat ran great brought it in re fueled and made a video during the video I lose radio control again, receiver got wet. At first it wants to sit in the water idling and doing right turns, then it comes out of its right turn and does a slow left and straight for shore. ughhhhhhhhhh

This is the video I made it is stationary I made myself, wind 14mph. Both links are the same video in case one don't work for ya hopefully the other will.

http://media.putfile.com/Still-got-Problems




Paul
 
Cheese,

How solid is your back mount to the pipe?

Are you measuring your pipe from the glow plug and following the pipe out to the widest point?

Were you throttling the boat down until the last part of the run or did it just come on by itself?

Don ;)
 
The back mount to the pipe will sway side to side but the length doesn't change. I do measure from the plug following the exhaust path to the fattest part of the pipe. It just came on by itself, like I was saying before its like 1/2 thru the tank and the boat just jumps and takes off. At the end of that run everything got all screwy and the radio lost signal. Thanks again for all your help Don, Ed and Mark :) I need all the info I can get.

Paul
 
The back mount to the pipe will sway side to side but the length doesn't change. I do measure from the plug following the exhaust path to the fattest part of the pipe. It just came on by itself, like I was saying before its like 1/2 thru the tank and the boat just jumps and takes off. At the end of that run everything got all screwy and the radio lost signal. Thanks again for all your help Don, Ed and Mark :) I need all the info I can get.

Paul
I would do a range check with a helper to ensure you are getting full throttle. Also what kinda temps are you running in air/water?
 
The engine will act like that even if I keep the boat within 100' then about 1/2 thru its fuel it will take off. Air temp is between 50-85f as far as water temp I am not really sure, the engine is air cooled. I have a problem with water and the receiver.

Thank You

Paul :)
 
Sounds like the boat os just to heavy with a full fuel cell. As far as the water goes take your sevor out and dip the bottom in wax that shold keep the water out of there and for the reciever take it apart and put a bunch of dielectric grease inside it. A bunch make sure everything in coated well. Make sure all of the components are dry firs because once you do this any moisture trapped inside will stay there.
 
Sounds like the boat os just to heavy with a full fuel cell. As far as the water goes take your sevor out and dip the bottom in wax that shold keep the water out of there and for the reciever take it apart and put a bunch of dielectric grease inside it. A bunch make sure everything in coated well. Make sure all of the components are dry firs because once you do this any moisture trapped inside will stay there.
Btw have you found where the water is getting into the radio box at? What type of radio system are you using?
 
The engine sounded fat (rich) before it started coming on the pipe. There could be a couple of reasons for this; 1) the engine got warmer longer into the run, 2) the apparent needle setting is changing with fuel level.

1) Does the cooling head have all og the fins? From what I hear and see most folks running air cooled heads reduce the cooling. It seems that our boats cool better than the cars, so reduced cooling is required.

2) Are you running a small hopper or feeder tank along with the main tank? Often when the tank gets about 1/2 full, the engine picks up small amounts of air due to fuel slosh. This effectively leans the mixture slightly.
 
I think the engine is getting leaner with fuel consumption. The engine came with 9 cooling fins now it has 3. I have a single 2oz tank and when this thing is half full it looks like a washing machine in there, does a hopper tanks help prevent this? I am using a Futaba 3pm FM radio.

Ok Today was the first race for the little boat, it wasn't a good day for sure. First heat DNS, Second heat DNF boat hit a wake went 6" in the air and went under water, Third heat DNF had a perfect start but hit buoy one and the day was over. I am planning on taking this boat to Ron's Fun Run on the 19th and race it on the 20th here, but after that it will be changing to a full size .12 . This boat cant handle the weather conditions that come along with racing and having to heat race with bigger boats makes it even tougher ( when this boat stops in the water you cant see it).

Thanks

Paul

p.s. All in All I had a Great Time !!!!

p.s.s. Wind was 20mph and the winner of B hydro was David Preusse running his Sport 20, 2nd in B hydro was Gary Preusse running his B hydro (Hawk).
 
Last edited by a moderator:
This could be a really dumb question but I'm gonna give it a shot. There really isn't alot of little engines available and I have a http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti00...=LXJL60&P=0 I was wondering would this engine be better than the OS cv-r .12 car engine? I understand it isn't a A engine but my boat is running B class until September at the Indy masters if they have enough for a class. I am putting together a full size .12 for racing, my little boat just isn't gonna cut it (yes it might be pretty cool looking but I wanna heat race). I wish more of you guys where into the little boats so you would have more opinions, But I understand the bigger boats are really nice :)

Thanks Again

Paul
 
This could be a really dumb question but I'm gonna give it a shot. There really isn't alot of little engines available and I have a http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti00...=LXJL60&P=0 I was wondering would this engine be better than the OS cv-r .12 car engine? I understand it isn't a A engine but my boat is running B class until September at the Indy masters if they have enough for a class. I am putting together a full size .12 for racing, my little boat just isn't gonna cut it (yes it might be pretty cool looking but I wanna heat race). I wish more of you guys where into the little boats so you would have more opinions, But I understand the bigger boats are really nice :)


Thanks Again

Paul
I think you can do an Aquacraft .18 for close if not the same money and that is a better motor than the traxxas.

$.02
 
I am not going to buy another engine I was given the whole traxxas nitro vee boat, I was just curious if the traxxas marine engine would be better in a .12 rigger than the car engine I am using. I was told the .18's would prob be too much for the .12 rigger anyway, Thanks :)

Paul

I will probably just stick with the OS CV-R .12 , it is probably a better engine.
 
Better? Maybe. If you're going to heat race you will need a 4 oz. tank to make it all the way. Maybe you can sweet talk Wade out of one of the Hammerhead's that I'm giving him.
 
Back
Top