You Old Guys Might Get A Laugh Outta' This One!

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FlyinFinn

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 21, 2007
Messages
206
So, I'm out to the pond near Sherida/Dallas (Jerry Wyss and Jim Hill took me out there last weekend and this time I went with my 12 year-old son) to run my TSII with my O.S. outboard and different radio gear. I get the motor started and it idles way too high RPM. Adjusting the hrottle trim just doesn't do it, so I think it's the adjustment on my servo horn and throttle cable. Get that taken care of and it idles better, a bit higher than normal, but I can at least get the motor to shut off. I throw it in the water and run a few laps and the boat starts to idle fast again! I'm about to turn around and head back from the other side of the lake (boat still on the water) and all of a sudden, the motor revs really high and I lose complete throttle control! I can't shut it off and it's out there 100 yards or so. EEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEWHUMP! The motor goes dead. I row out in the retrieval boat and pick my boat out of the water with the carburetor hanging by the fuels lines! The carburetor retaining screw backed out and the retainers fell out allowing the carb to vibrate loose. I put the boat on the stand and now my starter won't turn the motor over. So the motor must have leaned out and seized the piston. The motor will turn by hand, but when the piston goes to top dead center it gets stiff and hard to turn. So, I guess I'm going to be putting a new top-end on my O.S.

OK, so maybe you old guys are just feeling my pain by now and maybe your not getting a real kick outta' this one, but I thought it might be a story you could relate to. Lesson learned: check all screws after/prior to running my boat and maybe use some locktite on the carb retainer screw. How hard is it to replace a piston and sleeve on the O.S.? Not sure if any other damage was done. What do you guys think?

Also, we ran the Miss Vegas and it ran well. Seemed to run very well in the chop and a little slower when the lake turned to glass. Sure looked good on the water though! The only problem we had with Miss Vegas was the pipe and header coupling hose zip ties were coming off and melting to the pipe! What can I get for pipe hose retainers that will hold up and not come off?
 
Most of the time it's not hard to change ou the piston and sleeve unless something distorted the sleeve and that will make it very hard to remove from the case. One thing you should probably go on and replace the rod and wrist pin clips also sometimes when you hard stop an engine you can bend the rod slightly and a rod and new clips are not that exspensive compared with a piston and sleeve. good luck don't forget the fly wheel nut is left handed thread.

So, I'm out to the pond near Sherida/Dallas (Jerry Wyss and Jim Hill took me out there last weekend and this time I went with my 12 year-old son) to run my TSII with my O.S. outboard and different radio gear. I get the motor started and it idles way too high RPM. Adjusting the hrottle trim just doesn't do it, so I think it's the adjustment on my servo horn and throttle cable. Get that taken care of and it idles better, a bit higher than normal, but I can at least get the motor to shut off. I throw it in the water and run a few laps and the boat starts to idle fast again! I'm about to turn around and head back from the other side of the lake (boat still on the water) and all of a sudden, the motor revs really high and I lose complete throttle control! I can't shut it off and it's out there 100 yards or so. EEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEWHUMP! The motor goes dead. I row out in the retrieval boat and pick my boat out of the water with the carburetor hanging by the fuels lines! The carburetor retaining screw backed out and the retainers fell out allowing the carb to vibrate loose. I put the boat on the stand and now my starter won't turn the motor over. So the motor must have leaned out and seized the piston. The motor will turn by hand, but when the piston goes to top dead center it gets stiff and hard to turn. So, I guess I'm going to be putting a new top-end on my O.S.
OK, so maybe you old guys are just feeling my pain by now and maybe your not getting a real kick outta' this one, but I thought it might be a story you could relate to. Lesson learned: check all screws after/prior to running my boat and maybe use some locktite on the carb retainer screw. How hard is it to replace a piston and sleeve on the O.S.? Not sure if any other damage was done. What do you guys think?

Also, we ran the Miss Vegas and it ran well. Seemed to run very well in the chop and a little slower when the lake turned to glass. Sure looked good on the water though! The only problem we had with Miss Vegas was the pipe and header coupling hose zip ties were coming off and melting to the pipe! What can I get for pipe hose retainers that will hold up and not come off?
 
The Miss Vegas zip ties can be replaced with slightly larger zip ties and they don't seem to melt. I still haven't melted my original ones. The best Miss Vegas speed secrets so far are remove the head shim, change the prop to a metal Y535, and maybe run the Grim Racer turn fin. I'll tell you more after the Grand Prix in Freemont.

Lohring Miller (a really old guy)
 
"Warning signs", gotta keep your eyes an ears open for sudden erratic running signals. Unfortunately the only

way you recognise these signs is thru running your engine/boat allot.

It's like with Jims Mac last Sunday, it would die during launch, twice in a row after richening it both times,

means its getting air from somewhere other than the carb opening. You remember I found it between the

PTO and back of the case, loose bolts.

A good "rule of thumb" way of spotting some of these signs is that a rich setting on the carb, the engine will

always try to run and a lean setting, it will always try to die.

When outa the water and on the bench, the engine should never be able to hit max revs even if the throttle

is held full.

Winging Way Up, Clear as a Bell can spell Doom in less than two seconds depending on how lean it is.

If you want your engine back together in a hurry I have all the new parts right here in Otis. Whenever

I buy a new engine I always buy backup parts and for the XM engine I can do that rebuild twice over.

JW
 
So, I'm out to the pond near Sherida/Dallas (Jerry Wyss and Jim Hill took me out there last weekend and this time I went with my 12 year-old son) to run my TSII with my O.S. outboard and different radio gear. I get the motor started and it idles way too high RPM. Adjusting the hrottle trim just doesn't do it, so I think it's the adjustment on my servo horn and throttle cable. Get that taken care of and it idles better, a bit higher than normal, but I can at least get the motor to shut off. I throw it in the water and run a few laps and the boat starts to idle fast again! I'm about to turn around and head back from the other side of the lake (boat still on the water) and all of a sudden, the motor revs really high and I lose complete throttle control! I can't shut it off and it's out there 100 yards or so. EEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEWHUMP! The motor goes dead. I row out in the retrieval boat and pick my boat out of the water with the carburetor hanging by the fuels lines! The carburetor retaining screw backed out and the retainers fell out allowing the carb to vibrate loose. I put the boat on the stand and now my starter won't turn the motor over. So the motor must have leaned out and seized the piston. The motor will turn by hand, but when the piston goes to top dead center it gets stiff and hard to turn. So, I guess I'm going to be putting a new top-end on my O.S.
OK, so maybe you old guys are just feeling my pain by now and maybe your not getting a real kick outta' this one, but I thought it might be a story you could relate to. Lesson learned: check all screws after/prior to running my boat and maybe use some locktite on the carb retainer screw. How hard is it to replace a piston and sleeve on the O.S.? Not sure if any other damage was done. What do you guys think?

Also, we ran the Miss Vegas and it ran well. Seemed to run very well in the chop and a little slower when the lake turned to glass. Sure looked good on the water though! The only problem we had with Miss Vegas was the pipe and header coupling hose zip ties were coming off and melting to the pipe! What can I get for pipe hose retainers that will hold up and not come off?
There is an old saying with food (When in doubt throw it out) With boats (When in doubt don't throw it out) Been there Done that Ray No laughing matter.
 
When outa the water and on the bench, the engine should never be able to hit max revs even if the throttleis held full.
Jerry

I am going to have to disagree on this one. You should be able to get the motor to rev to the ceiling with full throttle on the bench. As to wether you should do it is another story. If it is full throttle and does not rev up, your too fat. If you pull the trigger and the motor instantly goes to a high rev your too lean. You should see a 1-2 sec pause before it hits the ceiling when full throttle is pulled. This will get the needle in the ball park. I think this is what you are trying to say. It just does not read that way.

Mike
 
Last edited by a moderator:
"Warning signs", gotta keep your eyes an ears open for sudden erratic running signals. Unfortunately the onlyway you recognise these signs is thru running your engine/boat allot.

It's like with Jims Mac last Sunday, it would die during launch, twice in a row after richening it both times,

means its getting air from somewhere other than the carb opening. You remember I found it between the

PTO and back of the case, loose bolts.

A good "rule of thumb" way of spotting some of these signs is that a rich setting on the carb, the engine will

always try to run and a lean setting, it will always try to die.

When outa the water and on the bench, the engine should never be able to hit max revs even if the throttle

is held full.

Winging Way Up, Clear as a Bell can spell Doom in less than two seconds depending on how lean it is.

If you want your engine back together in a hurry I have all the new parts right here in Otis. Whenever

I buy a new engine I always buy backup parts and for the XM engine I can do that rebuild twice over.

JW

Great advice Jerry! I'm so new at this nitro motor stuff that I just lacked the experience to say not to running the boat unitil everything was perfect. I'm so new at this that I didn't know what perfect is. I felt like I learned a great deal from the experience with morew to learn about replacing the piston and sleeve. I've got the piston and sleeve, piston pin clips and carburetor retainer on order (should be here Wednesday). What do you think about replacing the rod?

Lohring, thanks for the advice on the Miss Vegas. I also replaced the lower rudder and lower turn fin bolt with nylon bolts and modified the rudder adn turn fin by radiusing the top edge, so in case I run over something in the water the nylon bolts will shear and hopefully not damage the hull. Hope that still makes it legal.
 
What do you think about replacing the rod?
I think it's cheap insurance to replace the rod, they're not that expensive,,, why risk it?
I didn't order the rod. I am wanting to get this repaired and running this week. I'd like to run the "fun-run" with Emerald RC in Springfield next Sunday. Jerry, would you have any time this week to help me fix my motor? I could order the rod and then give you the parts when I get them. By the way, how do you get the flywheel off? Does it take a puller of some sort? Also, I assume it would take a press to get it back on.
 
I helps to have a puller but you can put a propane torch to the cone and it should come off.

I use the same method to put it back on, just heat it up a little.

Yeah I could do it , just a matter of gettin' it to me,,, jeesh! I just sent my Frank Orlic circlip tool

to California :lol: have to do it the old way.

If you could get it to me before your parts come in it would save crunching time before Sunday and

just give me your parts at Springfield :huh:
 
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