York- Scale Issues

Intlwaters

Help Support Intlwaters:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Brandon White

Well-Known Member
Supporting Member
Joined
May 8, 2008
Messages
595
I have this Scale York hull (older Doug Shepherd) an I'm needing some help. It ran fast when I first got it then this year it will only troll for a bit then die. It has a new Greenhead in it with not even a year of racing on it also a Bob V needle (purple) I've messed with the needle from fat to little by little leaning out with no change in speed. I've put a new tank in it with all new bigger lines and the pipe at 12 in. Could the bearing be going out?? I've also moved the strut some, it weights just a hair over 12lb and it ran well with a 2 blade. Open to any help with props to put on it and what could be the problem. Thank You

10358574_10204054981885102_8210734121525133150_n (2).jpg
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Hi Brandon, nice fleet! What about the water temp you're running in? Colder now? I notice you said "all new bigger lines". I couldn't get my greenhead on the pipe until I choked down the water enough. I had too much flow. Just a thought. Paul
 
Might be your bob V needle, switch to your cmb remote needle. The o ring on the bob v will cause troubles like this. Check your fuel too,get a fresh jug and run it. Just a few suggestions, hope it helps.
 
Hey Brandon,

What carb do you have on the new CMB? Pipe pressure? Where are the pick up and tank vents in your new tank?

I run unrestricted 5/32 water lines in my scale boat/CMB 67/OS 9B carb and didn't see any issue running this cooling system at last years Kohlmeyer Classic.

If it ran well before, I wouldn't think a strut adjustment would be needed.

Sounds like a fuel delivery problem to me, and I would look at that BV needle assembly closely. Do you have access to a BM flow meter? I'm thinking the BV drawing secondary air leaning your mixture as Charles has said. Most of the new needle valve assemblies have O-rings to seal the needle valve in the valve body, and most use the cheapest o-ring material they can find.

I'm sending you (PM) a "Troubleshoot Your Fuel System" article John Finch wrote a while back. I can't copy and paste it here as I would like. CHEERS !!! Bob
 
i struggled with fuel delivery issues as well, who knew you can't use brass tube that comes with tanks
default_smile.png


switched to 3/16" everywhere, large fuel tubing, replaced o-rings in BVM (http://www.rocketcityracing.com/bvm-replacement-o-ring-for-mixture-control-2/), was tipped off to get the fuel pickup as close to the carb as possible, using slant tanks with pickups jammed in lower left rear corner (had to adjust these several times before i got them draining fully)

motor runs fine now, thanx to countless people helping me along the way...good luck
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Thanks for the help guys! Bob I have this fuel tank and the black carb the cmb goes with it. I'm planning to get the OS carb soon. Once Im back from vacation I'm going to pull it all out and go over it again. I do need a hopper tank too. Thanks for the info in the PM Bob

sulb2000.jpg
 
Thanks for the help guys! Bob I have this fuel tank and the black carb the cmb goes with it. I'm planning to get the OS carb soon. Once Im back from vacation I'm going to pull it all out and go over it again. I do need a hopper tank too. Thanks for the info in the PM Bob
Definitely dump the stock carb, have seen quite a few people struggle with them on the scales, the OS 9B is the way to fly like others have suggested. I also agree with Sam's recommendation on hooking up with Doug as he knows the set up for his boats.
default_smile.png
 
Remove and disassemble the BV needle. Check for crud and check condition of "O" rings.
 
You are more than welcome Brandon.

Pickup up the lower ,rear facing, port corner, vent in the forward, upper starboard corner.

John's article gets PMed often. Good gouge then, good gouge now. Let us know how you make out.

See you in Evansville in Sept. CHEERS!!! BOB
 
Brandon,

Build you a new tank with new 5/32 annealed brass also use a white stopper and use a 2 oz sump tank with it as well. I used BV needles on all my boats and have had zero problem with them. I have had the same needle one of my scale boats for over 8 years and no problem ..good clean fuel.....use a fuel filter putting fuel in the boat and a fuel filter from the tank to the carb. So new fuel tank and some new line and start there. Blow the needle out with some carb cleaner used a good know 50 % fuel. Also check the pressure

Fitting for a blockage

Hope this helps happy boating Doug.
 
I think you nailed it with the bad bearings. If they are toast you will never get a consistent tune. I have the WIB Swiss made jobs for the CMB 67 if you need a set. $40 plus $5 shipping.
 
I had an interesting fuel flow issue at the RCU race in Tri Cities. It gets way, way hotter in TC than it does in western Washington and as the day went on i kept richening up the needle, but the boat had all the symptoms of being lean (black holing glow plugs, motor really hot) but according to my Boris meter it was ridiculously rich-should have just been blubbering. The boat was screaming but I finally jumped the fence and it died in the last section. Long story short. I couldn't get enough fuel through the medium size tubing between the sump tank-needle-carb. I think the fuel had expanded so much from the heat (close to 100 degrees) that the motor was starving due to lighter fuel density. Went to large size tubing, reflowed back to my setting from the morning and went out and won the connie. The proof was that I loaned one of my motors to another racer and they also had problems until they went to larger fuel line.

In some ways I guess it's a good thing as I have been working on getting my motors to flow more fuel for higher RPM w/o giving up torque, so it makes sense that larger tubing would be needed. Never would have known in the Seattle area because it doesn't get that hot. The heat definitely has a way of bringing tuning issues to the surface.

The flow issue? Well, the flow meter was pushing air through the needle-not fuel. I'm guessing that was the reason for the rich indication. Once I used the larger tubing the flow meter numbers became relevant again.
 
I had an interesting fuel flow issue at the RCU race in Tri Cities. It gets way, way hotter in TC than it does in western Washington and as the day went on i kept richening up the needle, but the boat had all the symptoms of being lean (black holing glow plugs, motor really hot) but according to my Boris meter it was ridiculously rich-should have just been blubbering. The boat was screaming but I finally jumped the fence and it died in the last section. Long story short. I couldn't get enough fuel through the medium size tubing between the sump tank-needle-carb. I think the fuel had expanded so much from the heat (close to 100 degrees) that the motor was starving due to lighter fuel density. Went to large size tubing, reflowed back to my setting from the morning and went out and won the connie. The proof was that I loaned one of my motors to another racer and they also had problems until they went to larger fuel line.

In some ways I guess it's a good thing as I have been working on getting my motors to flow more fuel for higher RPM w/o giving up torque, so it makes sense that larger tubing would be needed. Never would have known in the Seattle area because it doesn't get that hot. The heat definitely has a way of bringing tuning issues to the surface.

The flow issue? Well, the flow meter was pushing air through the needle-not fuel. I'm guessing that was the reason for the rich indication. Once I used the larger tubing the flow meter numbers became relevant again.
Good post, thanks for sharing!
 
flow values were meaningless while I had draw problems, my motor couldn't draw fuel no matter how much I opened the needle....

crazy fat on the beach, and goes lean when it hits the water....the flow meter stopped making sense cuz the needle was falling out

as the fuel system became easier to draw from, the boat would start fat, and run fat on the water...that was the first indication I had solved the problem...flow values were relevant again, Roy Munoz was at the pond helpin me when we fixed this issue
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Back
Top