WildThing

[gooycheese]

Hi All,

I have never driven a fast mono before and I have been considering making a B or D WildThing Mono. The question I have is this hull going to be competitive with the seaducers and the speedmaster? Also when building this wood boat how much harder will this be compared to building a rigger? I am guessing straightness is a major issue just like the rigger. Are wood monos a thing of the past? Are trim tabs needed for this type of mono ( not a big fan of trim tabs)? Any guidance would be greatly appreciated, ohhh will a K&B .21 or a OPS .45 work with this type of boat (wish I could afford a CMB or a Mac)?

Thanks,

Paul

 

[John Finch]

Gooycheese,

I designed the Wild Thing for the average joe to go to the pond and have fun at speeds around 45 mph or so with a 21 engine. It is a little on the large size for speeds above 50 mph and will blow off unless you add a little weight. It handles the corners very linear with no darting. I hold the IMPBA 1/4 mile oval record with the wild thing using an OPS 45 engine running around 65 mph and it was very stable on the short track. I used the same one in the magazine article that I had a 21 engine in. Problem with a 45 and a full size course is that the boat will air out after about 220 feet and maybe dunk like a seaducer. Trim tabs are needed for good stability, but very small tabs are all that is needed. Mine are only like 1/2 inch wide. It's easier to build than a hydro, but be sure to build the lip where the bottom meets the sides so water does not climb into the boat while cornering. Some guys have built gas versions, some narrower hulls for 21 engines etc. I have not heard back on the results though. Your K&B 21 would be a perfect match for the boat.

 

[gooycheese]

Thanks John,

I think I will build a K&B .21 WildThing this winter and race it next year. I need a mono and a B Mono will do just fine for a first. When I do get to building I may ask some more questions.

Thanks Again,

Paul

 

[Ron Olson]

I don't know if you remember Wade's Wild Thing at the Fun Run, it was the boat this year that had to be chased across the lake! With his and another local guys, Dave Homer's, they've been very good boats. on Dave's boat, we got it to run without trim tabs by using one of John's (OK, and Steve Speas)other tricks, the bead of CA along the bottom of the rear of the transom. They do seem to ride just like Speedmasters and Seaducer's in my eyes. I don't see why it wouldn't be competitive with the right engine. Wade's has a Nove Rossi and Dave's has a CMB Greenhead.

I've got the downsized version that Grimmie built, it's the boat in my avatar.

The build is supposed ot be very easy. The only complaint that I've seen is that one area of the build is kind of foggy in the article included with the plans but John is here to help you through that part.

Dave's boat at SVP: http://www.rcflix.com/photopost/showphoto....&ppuser=612

Picture: http://www.rcflix.com/photopost/showphoto....&ppuser=612

Wade's boat: http://www.rcflix.com/photopost/showphoto....&ppuser=612

All shots by Mark Scott.

 

[Ray Sametz]

Paul, Do you have the plans. Ray

 

[wswatzell]

Paul,

The build is really easy ang goes together in just a few evenings including cutting the pieces. John designed a very nice easy to build boat. I know you will enjoy it.

 

[john v]

i built 4 wild things over the years and this hull was very competitive in rough water, when the pond gets too smooth the seaducers take over, but had the best time racing this design, very forgiving and just fast enough!

john v

 

[Darin Jordan]

I just picked up a beautifully built 32" Wild Thing from E-Bay that a guy hadn't quite completed yet... It's VERY true... he did a grea job and I'm excited to get it going... This one's going to be used in a P-Mono/E2-Mono application and should fit the bill nicely, since we run a little heavier than the average .21...

I have a question as to what strakes to add and where? Does anyone have some shots of the bottom and/or any experience as to where one would locate these, how big to make them, etc.??? I'd sure appreciate any insite before I delve into this...

Thanks!

 

[Ray Sametz]

I just picked up a beautifully built 32" Wild Thing from E-Bay that a guy hadn't quite completed yet... It's VERY true... he did a grea job and I'm excited to get it going... This one's going to be used in a P-Mono/E2-Mono application and should fit the bill nicely, since we run a little heavier than the average .21...
I have a question as to what strakes to add and where? Does anyone have some shots of the bottom and/or any experience as to where one would locate these, how big to make them, etc.??? I'd sure appreciate any insite before I delve into this...

Thanks!

Darin, The boats designed with no strakes at all, smooth bottom. Pm your e-mail addy and I'll copy set up directions an send them to you. Ray B)

 

[John Finch]

I just picked up a beautifully built 32" Wild Thing from E-Bay that a guy hadn't quite completed yet... It's VERY true... he did a grea job and I'm excited to get it going... This one's going to be used in a P-Mono/E2-Mono application and should fit the bill nicely, since we run a little heavier than the average .21...
I have a question as to what strakes to add and where? Does anyone have some shots of the bottom and/or any experience as to where one would locate these, how big to make them, etc.??? I'd sure appreciate any insite before I delve into this...

Thanks!

Darin, The boats designed with no strakes at all, smooth bottom. Pm your e-mail addy and I'll copy set up directions an send them to you. Ray B)

Strakes break the water from a hull at slow speed, but cause chine walk at high speed, so don't use strakes. You will be most happy with speeds in excess of 60 mph with the electric setup.

 

[Darin Jordan]

Strakes break the water from a hull at slow speed, but cause chine walk at high speed, so don't use strakes. You will be most happy with speeds in excess of 60 mph with the electric setup.

That's good enough for me! Thanks for taking the time to respond you guys... Time to get to work...

 

[John Finch]

Strakes break the water from a hull at slow speed, but cause chine walk at high speed, so don't use strakes. You will be most happy with speeds in excess of 60 mph with the electric setup.

That's good enough for me! Thanks for taking the time to respond you guys... Time to get to work...

Be sure to leave the straked edge at the chine line where the bottom of the boat meets the side. This edge keeps water from climbing into the boat while cornering.

 

[steve speas]

I don't know if you remember Wade's Wild Thing at the Fun Run, it was the boat this year that had to be chased across the lake! With his and another local guys, Dave Homer's, they've been very good boats. on Dave's boat, we got it to run without trim tabs by using one of John's (OK, and Steve Speas)other tricks, the bead of CA along the bottom of the rear of the transom. They do seem to ride just like Speedmasters and Seaducer's in my eyes. I don't see why it wouldn't be competitive with the right engine. Wade's has a Nove Rossi and Dave's has a CMB Greenhead.I've got the downsized version that Grimmie built, it's the boat in my avatar.

The build is supposed ot be very easy. The only complaint that I've seen is that one area of the build is kind of foggy in the article included with the plans but John is here to help you through that part.

Dave's boat at SVP: http://www.rcflix.com/photopost/showphoto....&ppuser=612

Picture: http://www.rcflix.com/photopost/showphoto....&ppuser=612

Wade's boat: http://www.rcflix.com/photopost/showphoto....&ppuser=612

All shots by Mark Scott.

there goes another one of my secrets <_<

 

[Ron Olson]

Goes to show that you can't let even your best buddies in on your little speed secrets! Do that and the next thing that you know, it's being blabbed in RCBM! :lol:

I remember John talking before about how important the last 1/4" or so of a hull being so important as to how a mono handles plus we've seen how a hull has to be as flat as possible and just seeing what a bead of thick CA can do to the handling was amazing.

 

[John Finch]

Steve and I learned about the cyanacrolate trick together at Alberts pond one day. We swore to keep it secret, but after a while when you see people struggling, you just have to let them in on stuff like that.

Steve and I have learned a lot together at the pond with mono hulls, and when we ran Twin Craft, we let everyone in on the secrets. Better competition = better racing. I was setting up a straightaway mono last week and it was running bow heavy on the water. All I did was sand off the paint in a one inch area of the bottom of the boat and it cured the problem. Just the same principal as the cyanacrolate but for the opposite effect. SOMETIMES It only takes little changes on the back of a boat to see big results. Steve, get something together for straightaways. The 20 is flying! Litterally.