Well Ive taken the plunge into fast electrics and have gotten a UL1 and **** does this thing rock.
Take a look at your turn fin angle. Try adding angle into the turn fin to help "hold" the sponson down seems to calm the sponson walk.
I keep getting water inside the hull so how will this effect my lipos?
Check the water jacket for leaks. I would suspect this would be the cause for the water entering the hull. What I do is, take the cooling line off of the rudder assembly, plug the cooling outlet, and blow air thru the system. This will tell you where the leak is.
The lipos should be OK. Are your lipos packaged in a hard case? If so, I will open the case and make sure there is no water got in side. I would blow off the lipos with compressed air and then put them in the sun so they can air dry.
My reciever has gotten wet and have a balloon for that but what about the ESC?
The ESC should be fine too. If you take a good look, it's been encased or "dipped" in some type of conformal coating. However, make sure you get it dry before using it again.
Next is props?Whats working?I saw someplace for a 445?Is that a 3 blade?And also a couple Grim props listed in the book are they any good?
I am heat racing with an M445 (this is a 2 blade prop) in calm conditions. However my runs are only lasting about 2 minutes and 30 seconds per heat (at the most). I wouldn't recommend this prop if you’re only "playing". I would keep your props in the 40mm-43mm rage for playing around. However, always keep an eye on your temperatures of the batteries and the motor.
Last of all, do yourself a favor and put an extra capicitor on the speed control soon. This will help once you start going to bigger props. As you can see in the picturs my install could have been much cleaner, but I actually reinstalled it to reorient the cap closer to the ESC itself. Caps can be found here towards the bottom of the page.
http://www.kintecracing.com/UL-1_Upgrades.html
Mike
