Sealing a raw wood boat hull

[FloridaScaleBoater]

There have been a bunch of threads about how to seal a wood hull with epoxy. Got it, done it, been there.
Has anyone sealed there hull inside & out with urethane clear coat.
In theory, the urethane is harder, tougher epoxy, can be thinned to like water for the first couple of coats for good penetration and filling.
Pro's
Con's
?

 

[Grimracer]

I have not used epoxy for YEARS.. Only auto clears for me.. (they dont yellow as bad over the years)

The sealing is NOT mechanical however. I never use sealing as a final gluing.

Grim

 

[FloridaScaleBoater]

I have not used epoxy for YEARS.. Only auto clears for me.. (they dont yellow as bad over the years)

The sealing is NOT mechanical however. I never use sealing as a final gluing.

Grim

Yeh Mike,
This is a completely built WOF hull.
Just looking for an easier way to seal the wood.
Have always done the engine compartments with epoxy and ALWAYS end up with oil stained wood.
Sounds like I'll try something new.

 

[Shane Bastick]

International Everdure works well and you can paint it on like clear, just needs several coats with rubbing down in between, then either primer/precoat over the top for painting or a Clear coat if leaving it natural

 

[Mike Starrett]

Been using Minwax products for some time.

 

[Wasted wages]

International Everdure works well and you can paint it on like clear, just needs several coats with rubbing down in between, then either primer/precoat over the top for painting or a Clear coat if leaving it natural

Hey Shane,,, where do you buy this product ?

I've always just used 30 minute epoxy thinned with acetone or MEK and brush or spray it on with a throwaway Preval sprayer..
For sealing raw wood only,,not as a final coat.

 

[Shane Bastick]

Hi Frank,
I buy it from a local fiberglass store, but full size ship/boat Chandlery's will sell it , I have used it on full size wooden boats for years ( as it was intended for that use) , you can buy the primers and precoat and clears all under the same brand and colours as well.
They make a really nice Wood Varnish called International Goldspar which is great for natural wood finishes and is pretty hardy against fuel as well
International (used to be called Epi Glass international) is a company that makes all sorts of finishing and sealing products intended for full size boats.
The Everdure also has approx a 20min induction time after mixing before use, longer in cooler air temps and shorter in high air temps, brush on as well, being nice and thin

 

[Wasted wages]

So are all of their finishing products a two part mix?

Ie: primer, precoat, colors, top coat ?
Mix like epoxy? Equal parts A-B?

 

[Shane Bastick]

Only the Everdure (1-1 ratio) and Epifill (epoxy filler 1-2 ratio).
Primers, precoat and colors are single, but very hardy, as they are intended for full size boats

 

[dr gary turner]

I use TOTAL BOAT 2 part Penetrating Epoxy from Jamestown
Excellent sealing. Truly penetrates.

Then I spray PPG CLEAR then paint
No lifting in motor compartment

BTW sanding between sealing and clear

 

[dr gary turner]

No lifting

 

[Bill Eilers]

There have been a bunch of threads about how to seal a wood hull with epoxy. Got it, done it, been there.
Has anyone sealed there hull inside & out with urethane clear coat.
In theory, the urethane is harder, tougher epoxy, can be thinned to like water for the first couple of coats for good penetration and filling.
Pro's
Con's
?

Yes I have used polyurethane. And a lot of it. Minwax spar urethane aerosol, don't use the fast dry. Interior eng and tank area with jb weld premium clear wood epoxy. This product needs NO thinning.. the poly sprays beautiful its thin and good nozzle on can. First session apply to dry wood one light wet coat at a time, keep up with wood absorbing it. Don't apply so heavy u get bubbles from air leaving wood.. after two days dry sand with 220 wet or dry recoat to fill grain. Stuf is VERRY flexible. It holds up to methanol. It needs an adhesion promoter for some top coats. Best results come from doing panels flat.

 

[Wasted wages]

I use TOTAL BOAT 2 part Penetrating Epoxy from Jamestown
Excellent sealing. Truly penetrates.

Then I spray PPG CLEAR then paint
No lifting in motor compartment

BTW sanding between sealing and clear

Doc, do you spray clear again over the color?

If not, what are you using for paint?
Epoxy ?

 

[Wasted wages]

Only the Everdure (1-1 ratio) and Epifill (epoxy filler 1-2 ratio).
Primers, precoat and colors are single, but very hardy, as they are intended for full size boats

Thanks Shane!
Very interested in this product as I'm always looking for ways to cut down on "paint and body time"...

I love model boats, but absolutely hate the finishing/ painting part of builds.
Guess that's why I love monos so much...
Gelcoat fiberglass has very little body work involved...repairs easily, no muss no fuss.

 

[Shane Bastick]

I have been using it for many years without any issues and it stands the test of time

 

[Timbo Whalen]

There have been a bunch of threads about how to seal a wood hull with epoxy. Got it, done it, been there.
Has anyone sealed there hull inside & out with urethane clear coat.
In theory, the urethane is harder, tougher epoxy, can be thinned to like water for the first couple of coats for good penetration and filling.
Pro's
Con's
?

My 2¢....

Originally, we started with Zippkit sealer which, the way I understand, is the same as Bob Smith.

Next, we tried West Systems 207.

Finally, we listened to Doc and tried Jamestown's TotalBoat Penetrating Epoxy.

All 3 work fine, but require slightly different approaches.

All three systems were finalized with 2K urethane. We've found body shop supply house brands to be equal to PPG and DuPont Nason, for a helluva lot less $$$.

Certain applications we use 2 part epoxy primer after sealing when using color on wood, followed by 2K clear.

We like boats that are easy to see, so for color, we've been using the DupliColor Grabber Green and SBC Orange ceramic engine aerosols.

With intelligent thought, prep, and application one can put together a light, durable finish system.

 

[dr gary turner]

Doc, do you spray clear again over the color?

If not, what are you using for paint?
Epoxy ?

I do not spray if I am doing a single or two color boat. I use PPG DCC SINGLE STAGE PAINT.

If several colors I will sand with 600 w/d paper and clear with PPG CLEAR to get rid of the “ steps” in the paint lines.

PPG IS NOT CHEAP but the finish resists nitro and stays looking good for years.

We spend a lot of money on hulls hardware motors, and TIME BUILDING so why go cheap on sealing and painting

 

[dr gary turner]

My 2¢....

Originally, we started with Zippkit sealer which, the way I understand, is the same as Bob Smith.

Next, we tried West Systems 207.

Finally, we listened to Doc and tried Jamestown's TotalBoat Penetrating Epoxy.

All 3 work fine, but require slightly different approaches.

All three systems were finalized with 2K urethane. We've found body shop supply house brands to be equal to PPG and DuPont Nason, for a helluva lot less $$$.

Certain applications we use 2 part epoxy primer after sealing when using color on wood, followed by 2K clear.

We like boats that are easy to see, so for color, we've been using the DupliColor Grabber Green and SBC Orange ceramic engine aerosols.

With intelligent thought, prep, and application one can put together a light, durable finish system.

We tried using primer years ago and the paint lifted in the motor area and tank.
So we spray paint directly on the SANDED epoxy sealer or on the clear that was sprayed on the epoxy sealer.

Never had any more lifting from fuel(65% N)

BTW nitro is one of the best solvents you can buy.

I use pure nitro to DISSOLVE epoxy and CA where I may have inadvertently got some on my hands and touched the boat.

 

[Wasted wages]

I do not spray if I am doing a single or two color boat. I use PPG DCC SINGLE STAGE PAINT.

If several colors I will sand with 600 w/d paper and clear with PPG CLEAR to get rid of the “ steps” in the paint lines.

PPG IS NOT CHEAP but the finish resists nitro and stays looking good for years.

We spend a lot of money on hulls hardware motors, and TIME BUILDING so why go cheap on sealing and painting

Thanks for the reply,
Yeah, I am familiar with PPG products and have several boats that I've clear coated using their stuff...
I got tired of the old k&b clear yellowing...
Paint a boat white and it would yellow in a years time.
I bit the bullet and got some of ppg's clear years ago, but it has been a while and I don't think they even sell the stuff I used back then. If I remember, it was 3 parts..clear, activator, a thinner ??

Anyway, thanks for the info doc!!

 

[dr gary turner]

Yes, clear/paint, hardener, reducer

Just started the process on a new Sport 40. Boat was sealed total boat penetrating 2:1 epoxy.
Cleared today on my rotisserie.

One Choice is great stuff to me.
Right after spraying the pain clear, MIST paint/clear with this stuff and it helps the paint to flow and helps get rid of orange peel.

I am told it is used in doing patch work repair on cars and helps blend the new paint with rest of paint on a car.