Red Bull Sport 40.

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Josh Stollfuss

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 19, 2005
Messages
725
I posted this the other night, but I think it was one of the lost posts. Here is a couple pictures of my sport 40 i've painted in the Red Bull paint scheme. These pictures are prior to clear coat, which I hope to get sprayed this weekend. What do you think? I wanted something a little different for sport 40, I think its unique looking if nothing else. Pictures are posted in my gallery.

https://www.intlwaters.com/gallery/displayimage...10264&pos=-7021

https://www.intlwaters.com/gallery/displayimage...album=479&pos=0

Josh-
 
Look Nice boat :ph34r: the wingtails will be risk because if the boat fly off or roostertail and hit on water then wingtails break off Good luck! ;) Have fun !!
 
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I had a little problem with the clear, had a strange reaction to the silver in a couple spots on the sponson, plus it caused the pin stripe tape I put around the windsheild outline to peel up on the edges. I'm not sure what to do about the silver.. Either leave the silver as is, or repaint the entire thing.. I think I can do something with the pin stripe tape.. I was not real happy after I sprayed the clear.

The boat has a complete rear wing, supports on each side with a adjustable wing. I'm not sure that I would run it with the wing but I painted it all because it looks cool with the wing.

Josh-
 
I had a little problem with the clear, had a strange reaction to the silver in a couple spots on the sponson, plus it caused the pin stripe tape I put around the windsheild outline to peel up on the edges. I'm not sure what to do about the silver.. Either leave the silver as is, or repaint the entire thing.. I think I can do something with the pin stripe tape.. I was not real happy after I sprayed the clear.

The boat has a complete rear wing, supports on each side with a adjustable wing. I'm not sure that I would run it with the wing but I painted it all because it looks cool with the wing.

Josh-
Josh are your paints of the same brand or different, if they are different that could be where the clear to silver eaction came from. As for the stripping tape the only one I have found to work well with any clear is 3-M and it had to be burnished down really good.
 
I had a little problem with the clear, had a strange reaction to the silver in a couple spots on the sponson, plus it caused the pin stripe tape I put around the windsheild outline to peel up on the edges. I'm not sure what to do about the silver.. Either leave the silver as is, or repaint the entire thing.. I think I can do something with the pin stripe tape.. I was not real happy after I sprayed the clear.

The boat has a complete rear wing, supports on each side with a adjustable wing. I'm not sure that I would run it with the wing but I painted it all because it looks cool with the wing.

Josh-
Josh what clear were you shooting? If it was a two part catalyzing type it sounds like the first coat went on a little heavy & when it chemically "kicked" it got hot enough to react with both your silver & the adhesive of the tape. When you are shooting over decals, stripe tape and non catalyzing paints the first coat should be a light "dusting". Once this coat is applied the successive coats can be built up. Try to do 3-5 thin coats rather than one or two heavy ones. B)
 
I used Deltron DBU paint for both the bluw and the silver, over K36 primer. I used DCU2021 clear, and I did several lighh coats of clear, thats what upset me is I did it right. Oh well, I'm not going to do it over. I'll just live with it.

Josh-
 
I used Deltron DBU paint for both the bluw and the silver, over K36 primer. I used DCU2021 clear, and I did several lighh coats of clear, thats what upset me is I did it right. Oh well, I'm not going to do it over. I'll just live with it.

Josh-
What was the air temp when you shot the clear? What catalyst & what reducer did you use? Did you sand the silver before you clear coated it? What brand of stripe tape did you use?
 
It was 70-75 degrees when I painted, I did not sand the silver because it has a slight mettalic and I didn't want to smear it. I did not use a catylst on the color, and the reducer was what is reccommended for the temp I sprayed at. I don't remember the number right now off hand. The tape was a 3M tape, I think it was 5/16 wide.

Josh-
 
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It was 70-75 degrees when I painted, I did not sand the silver because it has a slight mettalic and I didn't want to smear it. I did not use a catylst on the color, and the reducer was what is reccommended for the temp I sprayed at. I don't remember the number right now off hand. The tape was a 3M tape, I think it was 5/16 wide.

Josh-
Ok so far so good. What exactly was the catalyst number?
 
It was 70-75 degrees when I painted, I did not sand the silver because it has a slight mettalic and I didn't want to smear it. I did not use a catylst on the color, and the reducer was what is reccommended for the temp I sprayed at. I don't remember the number right now off hand. The tape was a 3M tape, I think it was 5/16 wide.

Josh-
Ok so far so good. What exactly was the catalyst number?
You don't use catalist with dbu base coat . You are supposed to use DRR reducer. Did you get a shrivled effect? I had that happen one time with dbu and I finally decided that I did not mix the silver enough before pouring it in the mixing cup. It was an old can of paint and it probably had been frozen a time or 2. Had that happen on a helmet once. The candy base coat reacted with the gold base. Ended up keeping it on and clearing the crap out of it. The customer loved it.
 
It was 70-75 degrees when I painted, I did not sand the silver because it has a slight mettalic and I didn't want to smear it. I did not use a catylst on the color, and the reducer was what is reccommended for the temp I sprayed at. I don't remember the number right now off hand. The tape was a 3M tape, I think it was 5/16 wide.

Josh-
Ok so far so good. What exactly was the catalyst number?
You don't use catalist with dbu base coat............
I'm asking for the catalyst number used on the 2021 clear.
 
YES!!! that is exactly what happened! The silver seemed to shrivel on the checkerboards in a few places on the front sponsons. The blue is fine it only affected the silver. Right, I only used reducer on the DBU no catyst. It dried pretty quick on its own. This was feashly mixed paint only a week or so old, and the can had not been opened. Also, it sat for 5 days between base coat and clear coat. I don't know if that had anything to do with it?? But if it did I wouold have thought it would have affected both the blue and the silver. Oh well I'm going to live with it, I want to get it put together sometime this year!!

Josh-
 
Here is a little fun history about Josh's boat. It's the only RC boat I have ever seen that caught on fire in the water

Here is what it looked like new. This was back in the early 90's :D

https://www.intlwaters.com/gallery/displayimage...album=482&pos=3

This is what it looked like a couple of summers ago when it died about 100 feet offshore and caught on fire. I rowed pretty fast that day. I was always having heat problems with the pipe. :blink:

https://www.intlwaters.com/gallery/displayimage...album=482&pos=0

https://www.intlwaters.com/gallery/displayimage...album=482&pos=1

https://www.intlwaters.com/gallery/displayimage...album=482&pos=2

https://www.intlwaters.com/gallery/displayimage...album=482&pos=4
 
Did the paint shop not mention to use a DRR reducer? I've got to say the two colors I hate painting is silver and gold. There a B!T&** to mix in the can and they always seem to lump at the spout. As for the sanding part, I've seen guys over sand it'll takes the metallic off and you have flat colored spots. Pretty much why I gave up the candy colors due to most needing a silver base.

As for the tape, I always get a sample or test set of the tapes, pinstripping or decals that I put on my boats. I then spray those with my clear and see how they will react before I put them on the boat. Definetly a good idea to try if you paint a lot of boats.

Bob,

On Phil's hulls the cowl will rest right on the pipe if you have the middle radio box. I did my PT sport 40 up in the Frosted Flakes scheme and the back turbine was cooking on the inside. Fortunately, there was enough metallic in the blue where it caused the paint to wrinkle on the outside that you really couldn't tell it was messed up unless you looked really really close. My problem was I couldn't get the pipe down because I had the middle radio box. Basically I had to use a PIP pipe as they run really really cool and don't heat up like the nitro pipes do to prevent the boat going up in flames one day.
 
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Here's a nightmare story I'll share with you guys in regards to painting blunders. You know how when you do your buddies paint jobs they always come out a hundred times better than your own? Well, a friend had this Aeromarine hydro he wanted painted like the Picco American dream. The boat was a real piece of crap I sanded it for days, reglassed all the cracks and splits it had at the seems. I really did it up right. The paint job came out great! I had been doing the clear and was all done. For what ever **** reason I decided to put "just one more coat of clear" on it. Wouldn't you know this **** gnat landed right on the tip of the front sponson. I was trying to lift the SOB up with a long needle but it keep flapping and flapping and was making a mess of the clear coat. After it dried II lightly sanded it, I re hung it on a hook and sprayed the tip. The FRICKING HOOK BROKE and the **** boat came crashing down tips first. Busted the seems and all sorts of crap stuck to the clear coat. I never dropped so many "F-Bombs" in my life. What a nightmare! :blink:

I had to restart from scratch.
 
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