prop talk

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collins1172

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 31, 2006
Messages
148
Let me get this straight. If your prop is cavitating causing air to get sucked under the prop and your boat wont plane until its revving for about 8-10 seconds...... would you get a bigger prop meaning more pitch larger diameter or smaller diameter less pitch? Im using a prather 215 on a lee craft with a 3.5 k&b. At lower rpm it starts to take off and then loses the water under it as i apply power. Very frustrating. My TS2 still does it a little but only for about 2 to 3 seconds. This lee craft just wont do it no matter how long i leave the power on. Any ideas would be appreciated. Thanks Brad hbo
 
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Throw away the 215 and go with the stock x440 ,stock x442 or much better on the LeeCraft would be a back cut 1440.


PPSSSSSSTTTTTTTTT??? DONT TELL ANYONE < BUT TRY A SMALLER PROP WITH MORE PITCH . FASTER STRAITS AND WILL GO THRU THE CORNES LIKE LIGHTNING. 637/640/642 OR ANY OF THE 500 SERIES

I AM HEAR TO TELL YOU THEY WORK .
 
Thanks guys ill try all of those options. Ill let you all know how it runs when i get back.
 
What happens when you try a X440?

I've never had much luck with the Prather 215 on my 3.5 tunnels. But, that's just my experience.

JD
Hi Jerry :ph34r: I dont know that why didnt use Octura prop 1700 Series ? :blink: Al Hobbs told me that only any size tunnel use 1737 to1755 but he says no accept to use for outrigger . :eek:
 
JD,

I tried the x440. It worked great. It planed very quickly. The handling is quite a bit different though. With my current setup the 215 took 8-10 seconds to come on plane but once it did the boat was very stable and ran well. Now the boat wants to bite a little more in the corners.( almost to much.) It also bounced alot more. I couldnt tell if i needed to put a little negative in or put positive in. With the 215 i had very little bounce. i put an x442 on the leecraft. it ran good. Thanks for all the help. Sorry i didnt get back sooner. I was chasing illegal fisherman back across the mexico border. We even picked a guy up before he drowned trying to cross the brownsville channel. Anyhow thanks for all the assistance. Ill try some neg. Maybe itll stabilize. Brad
 
If the boat is grabbing in the corners, install the front recovery pads inside the tunnel.

Try these things in this sequence - lower the c/l of the prop, add 2 more oz. of lead, a slight amount of negative prop thrust.

JD
 
1. If you have purchased the hull less than 90 days ago, it is covered by warranty.

2. If the 90 day warranty has expired, the boat can be repaired by using fiber glass cloth and a plywood reinforcement piece. If you need to do a repair rather than a return, PM me and I'll give more specific directions on making the repair.

JD
 
I think i may have a serious problem......
I purchased a TS2 about 1 month ago and the same thing happened to it. The same type of crack on the transom. This is my first boat and I was starting to get it running good. Mine is still under warranty... called the number on the manual and they adviced to send the hull to them and "if" they determine it's covered they will replace it.

Did you get your's fixed or replaced? If fixed did the crack spread? I just hate to return the boat and wait for the replacement.

Some advice will be greatly apreciated.
 
After rereading this thread there are alot of good suggestions. Some thing that come to mind, when launching the boat give it some forward momentum and do not give it a bunch of throttle. There is a small propellor trying to push alot of wetted surface up on plane. I let mine idle out of the pits and have very little cavitation with 1400 series propellor. I see alot of guys revving the s@*t out of there motors on launch and always wonder why. It makes the boat harder to launch and is tough on equipment.
 
Big Red,

Aquacraft is a super company. They replaced it with no problem. They were very quick. I have many of there boats and they have always done me right. i highly reccomend this company. They are outstanding. Thanks Brad
 
I think i may have a serious problem......

When I look at the picture I see the engine slightly tilted?

Or did you unscrew it a little for the picture ?

Make sure the engine is straight !!!!

For the damage, I know some guys put some extra strentgh inside the boat and even add an inside motormount.

The 440 is a good prop, it bites from the start, a 1440 needs a little work, will start a little difficult but gives you definitely more speed.

Good luck

Ronald.
 
I think i may have a serious problem......
I purchased a TS2 about 1 month ago and the same thing happened to it. The same type of crack on the transom. This is my first boat and I was starting to get it running good. Mine is still under warranty... called the number on the manual and they adviced to send the hull to them and "if" they determine it's covered they will replace it.

Did you get your's fixed or replaced? If fixed did the crack spread? I just hate to return the boat and wait for the replacement.

Some advice will be greatly apreciated.
J"B", I'm glad you got to see this, Jerry Dunlap up there can really help you if you decide to repair,

he knows pretty much everthing about that boat.
 
Mark,

Don't you still make 1440's I remember that they worked well on the A tunnels with the K&B lower units, I swear by your 1450's they're awesome bar none.

Mike
 

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